Religious, Spiritual sights in The Northeast
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A
Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo
The original Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo, founded in 1636, burnt to the ground; the present neoclassical structure dates from 1828. The nave has a French organ (1889) and a baroque altar with a scandalous statue of Nossa Senhora do Carmo.
Church historians claim the statue was modeled in the likeness of Isabel II, the daughter of Garcia d'Ávila (of Praia do Forte fame), the largest landholder in the Northeast.
The artist, known as O Cabra (Half-caste), was a slave with no artistic training, who supposedly had a crush on Isabel II. The Christ-child cradled in the statue's arms has black features - could this be what O Cabra imagined their love child would look like?
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B
Igreja e Convento São Francisco
Defying the teachings of the saint to which it is dedicated, the baroque Igreja e Convento São Francisco is crammed with displays of wealth. An 80kg silver chandelier dangles over ornate wood carvings smothered in gold leaf, and the convent courtyard is panelled with hand-painted azulejos (Portuguese tiles). The complex was finished in 1723.
Forced to build their masters' church and yet prohibited from practising their own religion, African slave artisans responded through their work: distorting the faces of the cherubs, endowing some angels with huge sex organs, or making others appear pregnant. Most of these creative touches were chastely covered by 20th-century sacris…
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C
Igreja NS do Rosário dos Pretos
The king of Portugal gave the Irmanidade dos Homens Pretos (Brotherhood of Black Men) the land for the periwinkle-blue Igreja NS do Rosário dos Pretos in 1704. Building in their free time, it took these slaves and freed slaves almost 100 years to complete it. The rococo facade includes design elements pertaining to Candomblé (ask a guide to point them out) and tiled towers with an Indian flavor.
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D
Igreja da Sé
The imposing Igreja da Sé was originally built in 1537. Burnt in 1631, it has been reconstructed four times since, most recently from 1974 to 1984 in a Mannerist style that attempts to re-create the original 16th-century look. Check the touching inscription in simple Portuguese on the wooden door to the left inside the entrance. It is located atop Alto da Sé (Cathedral Heights).
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E
Mosteiro de São Bento
Built in 1582, the huge Mosteiro de São Bento has some exceptional woodcarving in its church. Brazil’s first law school was housed here for 24 years. The monastery celebrates mass complete with Gregorian chants at 6am daily and 10am and 6pm Sunday. To arrive here, follow Av 10 de Novembro to Praça Monsegnor Fabrici and turn left on Rua São Bento.
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Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo
The Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo has a gilded baroque altar, paneled ceilings and azulejos, and dates from 1702. A side gallery contains several polychrome Christs, imported from the Portuguese colony in Macau, and dripping with bovine blood mixed with Chinese herbs and sparkling rubies.
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F
Catedral Basílica
The Catedral Basílica dates from 1672 and is a marvelous example of Jesuit architecture. The interior is elegant and simple, with marble-covered walls and pillars that emphasize verticality. The sacristy has a beautiful carved jacaranda archway and a painted dome and floor.
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Igreja de NS da Ajuda
Cachoeira’s oldest church is the tiny Igreja de NS da Ajuda, built in 1595 when the town was known as Arraial d’Ajuda.
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Igreja de NS do Conceição do Monte
The climb to the 18th-century Igreja de NS do Conceição do Monte is rewarded only by views as it is closed to visitors.
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Igreja NS de Amparo
For a good walk and a beautiful view, follow the river's left bank upstream toward the Igreja NS de Amparo (1757) on the hill.
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G
Concatedral de São Pedro dos Clérigos
This is an 18th-century baroque church with incredibly fine wood carvings. It overlooks the Pátio de São Pedro.
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H
Capela Dourada
This church, begun in 1696, is a gem of Brazilian baroque. It also houses the Museu de Arte Sacra.
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