Sights in The Northeast
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Ponta Negra
Ponta Negra, at the far south end of the city, is the nicest beach in Natal - nearly 3km long and full of hotels, pousadas, restaurants, beach bars, surfers and sailing boats. On weekends it gets pretty packed: the northern part of the beach, with its pedestrian-only walkway, is less crowded. The surf here is consistent if small: you can rent boards from a few places along the beach for around R$25 a day. At the south end of the beach is Morro da Careca, a spectacularly high sand dune with a steep face that drops straight into the sea. Access to the dune has been closed off to prevent further erosion and damage to the primary Atlantic rain forest that covers it.
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Beaches
The waters of Morro's four conveniently named main beaches are mostly calm, shallow and warm, and their sands are narrow and swallowed by the high tides.
Tiny Primeira Praia is lined with pousadas and has a decent surf break. Deep Segunda Praia (500m) is the 'action' beach with pousadas, restaurants, nightclubs and a sea of tables and chairs. Pousadas and anchored boats dominate one end of Terceira Praia (1km). Once you pass a pair of restaurants, Quarta Praia (2km) is a long, lovely stretch of sand graced by tall, swaying palms. For even more isolated peace, continue on at low tide to Praia do Encanto (5km) or further down the island to Garapuá, which has one pousada.
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Praia do Futuro
Fortaleza's best beach, Praia do Futuro is a clean length of sand that stretches 5km (3.1mi) south along Av Dioguinho to the Clube Caça e Pesca (Hunting and Fishing Club). It is easily the city's best beach, though it's a fair way from most hotels. Barracas (kiosks) serving crab and beer line the beach, which gets packed on weekends. It doesn't start getting really nice until you're at least 1km (0.6mi) away from the industrial port.
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Museu Théo Brandão
The Museu Théo Brandão is housed in a handsomely renovated colonial building on the seafront. Excellent exhibits cover the state’s history and popular culture; the most impressive displays are festival headpieces modeled after churches, which are loaded with mirrors, beads and multicolored ribbons and weigh up to 35kg. Traditional dance performances are staged some evenings.
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Instituto Ricardo Brennand
From Tuesday to Friday afternoons, you can visit the scenic Instituto Ricardo Brennand, Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand's cousin’s museum. This contains a massive collection of European and Brazilian art, swords, armor and historical artifacts in a fake medieval castle on lovely grounds.
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Praia de Ponta Verde
The most popular and beautiful of the city beaches is Praia de Ponta Verde. Protected by an offshore coral reef, Maceió's ocean waters are calm and a deep emerald color.
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Igreja NS do Bonfim
If you've ever wondered where Pelourinho vendors get their fitas (colored ribbons), look no further than the 18th-century Igreja NS do Bonfim. Fitas are a souvenir of the church and have come to symbolize Bahia itself. Bonfim's fame derives from its power to effect miraculous cures, which has transformed it from a rather ordinary church into a popular shrine.
In the Sala dos Milagres (Room of Miracles) on the right side of the church, devotees leave photos, letters and ex votos - wax replicas of body parts representing those that were cured or need curing.
Due to Candomblistas' syncretization of Jesus Christ (Nosso Senhor do Bonfim) with Oxalá, their highest deity, Bonfim…
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Beaches
Separating the peninsula from the mainland is the island-riddled Baía de Camamu, Brazil's third-largest bay. One long, dirt road (often impassable after rain) heads down the peninsula, providing access to stunning beaches with crystal-clear water, such as Praia Taipús de Fora (7km, rated among Brazil's top beaches), and a handful of very small fishing villages. Pricey excursions to Lagoa Azul, viewpoints, bay islands and down the Rio Maraú are offered by local providers.
Other lovely destinations are accessible on foot. At the base of the village lies the 2km-long Barra Grande beach, where the calm waters are fine for swimming. A short walk along the beach leads to the…
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Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo
The original Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo, founded in 1636, burnt to the ground; the present neoclassical structure dates from 1828. The nave has a French organ (1889) and a baroque altar with a scandalous statue of Nossa Senhora do Carmo.
Church historians claim the statue was modeled in the likeness of Isabel II, the daughter of Garcia d'Ávila (of Praia do Forte fame), the largest landholder in the Northeast.
The artist, known as O Cabra (Half-caste), was a slave with no artistic training, who supposedly had a crush on Isabel II. The Christ-child cradled in the statue's arms has black features - could this be what O Cabra imagined their love child would look like?
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Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo
The original Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo, founded in 1636, burnt to the ground; the present crumbling neoclassical structure dates from 1828. The nave has a French organ and a baroque altar with a scandalous statue of Nossa Senhora do Carmo. Church historians claim the statue was modeled in the likeness of Isabel II, the daughter of Garcia d’Ávila (of Praia do Forte fame), the largest landholder in the Northeast. The artist, known as O Cabra (Half-Caste), was a slave with no artistic training, who was supposedly besotted with Isabel II. The Christ-child cradled in the statue’s arms has black features – could this be what O Cabra imagined their love child would look …
reviewed
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Castelo do Garcia d’Avila
The Castelo do Garcia d’Ávila, dating from 1552, was the first great Portuguese edifice in Brazil. Today, it’s an impressive ruin with great views. Desperate to colonize as a way to control his new territory, the king of Portugal had set about granting lands to merchants, soldiers and aristocrats. For no apparent reason, a poor, 12-cow farmer named Garcia d’Ávila was endowed with a tract of land that extended inland all the way to the state of Maranhão, with Praia do Forte as its seat. Overnight he became the largest landholder in the Northeast. For the site of his home, Garcia chose an aquamarine ocean-view plot studded with palm trees. It’s a 7km walk along the only …
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Solar do Unhão
The Solar do Unhão is a wonderfully preserved 18th-century complex that served as a transfer point for sugar shipments. Legends say it is haunted by the ghosts of murdered slaves. Today, this dark place houses the Museu de Arte Moderna (%3329 0660; www.mam.ba.gov.br, in Portuguese; admission free; h2-7pm Tue-Fri, 2-10pm Sat), with a changing display of avant-garde exhibits (and erratic opening times). A fine restaurant staging a popular evening folklore show (and Saturday evening concert) occupies the former store house. The hillside sculpture garden, with bay views, is stunning at sunset. Take a taxi – the place is off bus routes and the desolate walk is known for touri…
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Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand
A surreal sculpture garden of bizarre sexualized earthworms, frogs and turtles covers the landscape at the unique Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand. The artist Francisco Brennand, descended from 19th-century Irish immigrants and considered Brazil’s greatest ceramicist, revitalized his family’s abandoned tile factory to create his own line of decorative ceramic tiles. The rest of the huge space is dedicated to a seemingly exhaustive exhibition of his peculiar sculptures, including gardens with Moorish arches and rows of contorted busts. A trip out to the Oficina Cerâmica, set amid thick Atlantic rain forest some 10km west of downtown, is a regional highlight, so set asi…
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Igreja e Convento São Francisco
Defying the teachings of the saint to which it is dedicated, the baroque Igreja e Convento São Francisco is crammed with displays of wealth. An 80kg silver chandelier dangles over ornate wood carvings smothered in gold leaf, and the convent courtyard is panelled with hand-painted azulejos (Portuguese tiles). The complex was finished in 1723.
Forced to build their masters' church and yet prohibited from practising their own religion, African slave artisans responded through their work: distorting the faces of the cherubs, endowing some angels with huge sex organs, or making others appear pregnant. Most of these creative touches were chastely covered by 20th-century sacris…
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Museu Afro-Brasileiro
Holding one of Bahia’s most important collections, the Museu Afro-Brasileiro exhibits wood carvings, baskets, pottery and other artwork and crafts linking Brazilian and African artistic traditions. The highlight of the museum is a room lined with 27 huge, breathtaking carved wooden panels by Argentine-born Carybé, who is perhaps Salvador’s most renowned 20th-century fine artist. The panels are stylized depictions of orixás (deities of the Afro-Brazilian religions), inlaid with shells and metals. There’s also a worthwhile exhibit of photography, sacred objects and ceremonial apparel demonstrating the African roots of Brazilian Candomblé.
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Ribeirão do Meio
It's a relaxing 4km hike to Ribeirão do Meio. Follow Rua São Benedito (known as Rua dos Negros) out of town, ignoring the left turn 100m after Pousada Lumiar. Continue until the road ends at an upmarket housing development. Continue a short distance, then take a left fork onto a trail that descends and crosses a stream. Keep following the track until you reach a ridge overlooking Rio Ribeirão.
At the foot of the ridge, is Ribeirão do Meio, a series of swimming holes with a natural waterslide (bring shorts or something to slide on). Avoid assured injury by climbing the dry rocks (not the slide's wet ones) before launching off.
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Mercado Modelo
The original 1861 Customs House was partially destroyed in a fire in 1986. After reconstruction, it was transformed into a tourist market, the Mercado Modelo. When shipments of new slaves arrived into port, they were stored in the watery depths of this building while awaiting auction. Night guards report all sorts of phantasmic activity after closing hours. Live music and free capoeira demonstrations often occur out back – be sure to ask the price before snapping photos of the capoeiristas. There’s a touristy but fun café-restaurant, Camafeu, on the upper level; the terrace, looking over the bay, is ideal for a shopping break.
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Mercado Modelo
The original 1861 Customs House was partially destroyed in a fire in 1986. After reconstruction, it was transformed into a tourist market, the Mercado Modelo . When shipments of new slaves arrived into port, they were stored in the watery depths of this building while awaiting auction. Night guards report all sorts of phantasmic activity after closing hours. Live music and free capoeira demonstrations often occur out back - be sure to ask the price before snapping photos of the capoeiristas.
On a side note, you can see why the huge modernist sculpture beside the market is affectionately called bunda (butt) by locals.
reviewed
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Museu Afro-Brasileiro
Not surprisingly given its name, the Museu Afro-Brasileiro exhibits wood carvings, baskets, pottery and other art and crafts linking Brazilian and African artistic traditions. The exhibit of photography, sacred objects and ceremonial apparel demonstrating the African roots of Brazilian Candomblé is especially fascinating.
The highlight of the museum is a large room dedicated to breathtaking carved wooden panels by Argentine-born Carybé - perhaps Salvador's most renowned 20th-century fine artist. The panels are stylised depictions of orixás (deities of the Afro-Brazilian religions), inlaid with shells and metals.
reviewed
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Elevador Lacerda
The beautifully restored, Art Deco Elevador Lacerda is made up of four elevators connecting the Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. The elevators travel along a set of 72m (236ft) vertical cement shafts in about 20 seconds, shuttling more than 50,000 passengers daily. Don't miss the view from the windows behind the elevator entrances.
Jesuits installed the first manual rope-and-pulley elevator around 1610 to more easily transport goods and passengers from the port to the settlement. In 1868 an iron structure with clanking steam elevators was inaugurated. This was replaced by an electric system in 1928.
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Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra
Built in 1698, Bahia’s oldest fort is more commonly called the Farol da Barra for the lighthouse (South America’s oldest) within its walls. In addition to having superb views, the fort houses an excellent nautical museum, with relics and displays from the days of Portuguese seafaring (and lots of interesting information in English.) As you catch the sunset here – from the grassy ledge behind the fort or from the museum’s gorgeous terrace café – realize that Salvador’s peninsula is the only location in Brazil where the sun appears to set over the ocean.
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Beaches
The coast south of Itacaré is characterized by rough surf (better for surfing than swimming) and cove beaches separated by hills covered with rain forest. Some beaches, such as idyllic Prainha (reachable by trail from Praia do Ribeira), are private and charge entrance fees. Praia da Concha is an ordinary city beach. Resende, Tiririca and Ribeira beaches lie within 1.5km south of town and are frequented by surfers.
Highly recommended are the paradisiacal Engenhoca, Havaizinho and Itacarezinho beaches, 12km south of town.
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Museu da Boa Morte
For a small donation, members of the exclusively female Boa Morte (Good Death) religious society will lead you around their barren one-room Museu da Boa Morte. There are some good photos here and usually society members sit around in their whites, smoking pipes and trading gossip. The society began as a sisterhood of slaves that assured dead slaves a proper burial and bought old slaves their freedom, while on the side they passed on information regarding slave uprisings and carefully disguised Candomblé events.
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Porto Seguro Bay
North of town is one long bay dotted with barracas and clubs with invisible divisions creating Praia Curuípe (3km), Praia Itacimirim (4km), Praia Mundaí (6km) and Praia Taperapuã (7km). The sands are white and fluffy, backed by green vegetation and lapped by a tranquil sea. Tôa Tôa (Praia de Taperapuã), Axé Moi (Praia Mundaí) and Barramares (Praia de Taperapuã) are the biggest beach clubs and all have MCs and dancers leading crowds through popular dances.
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Beaches
Praia Mucugê is Arraial's main tourist beach and is crowded with barracas and blasted by music. As you continue south, Praia do Parracho is also built up, but with beach clubs and a few condominium complexes. Both of these beaches are sheltered by offshore reefs. Around the point, beautiful Praia Pitinga has red striped sandstone cliffs, pretty, calm waters and a few barracas. South of Pitinga, Praia da Lagoa Azul and Praia Taípe are backed by tall cliffs, and face stronger waves.
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