Things to do in São Luís
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Cabana do Sol
A starred restaurant since 1998, this is São Luís’ other memorable spot for the Portuguese, índio and African-influenced comida maranhense (the region’s traditional cuisine) . It’s pricey, but the irresponsibly enormous portions for two can serve four with gusto. The specialty is carne do sol (tasty, salted meat, grilled and served with beans, rice and vegetables – the picanha, steak, version is superb), but there is a wealth of chicken and seafood dishes, too.
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Maracangalha
This colorful restaurant is a step above in food and service and is the spot for a blowout meal. Chef/owner Melchíades Dantas turns out creative seafood and meat dishes that match the artsy atmosphere in flair and presentation (the caldeirada maranhense – a seafood stew – is excellent). Staff is impeccably on point. If there’s a flaw, it’s either the freezing red wine or the large, noise-hugging space that can swell with kids.
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Casa do Nhôzinho
At the eclectic and fascinating Casa do Nhôzinho, you can see a collection of ingenious fish traps, a room of Maranhão índio (indigenous) artisanry, a great range of textiles and baskets made from cotton and the buriti palm, and hosts of colorful, delicate Bumba Meu Boi figurines made by the 20th-century master artisan Mestre Nhôzinho.
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Praia de Calhau
The best local beach, Praia de Calhau , is broad and attractive, with hard-packed sand perfect for soccer games. It is popular on weekends. The large circular barracas along the beach cater to late-night partiers throughout the week. The calm far end of the beach is known as Praia do Caolho.
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A Varanda
The lush patio and excellent fish, shrimp and beef dishes make up for the slow service at this restaurant set in its owner's home. It's 4km east of the historic center: take a 'Vicente Fiaro' or 'Santa Clara' bus from the Terminal de Integração, get off at CEFET and take your first right.
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Embaixada Babaçu Livre
Run by a rural workers' association, this shop sells soap, boxes, jewelry and other products made from the babaçu, a highly versatile Maranhão palm that also provides food, oil, timber, roofing, fertilizer, cattle feed and charcoal for people in rural parts of the state.
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Market Building
Opposite the Museu de Artes Visuais, this 19th-century market building now trades in a fascinating variety of typical Maranhão crafts and foods, from dried prawns and live ducks to big bags of cashews and a bright, artificially colored purple cassava liquor called tiquira.
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Museu Histórico e Artístico
In a restored 1836 mansion, the Museu Histórico e Artístico is set out as it might have been in days of yore, displaying all the furnishings, valuables and everyday belongings of an upper-class 19th-century family – including a private theater. It’s very well-done.
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Centro de Cultura Popular Domingos Vieira Filho
An impressive 19th-century mansion houses the Centro de Cultura Popular Domingos Vieira Filho. The Popular Culture Center has very interesting exhibits on Carnaval and São Luís' Afro-Brazilian cults - especially tambor de mina, a local variant of Candomblé.
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Centro de Cultura Popular Domingos Vieira Filho
An impressive 19th-century mansion houses this popular cultural center, with interesting exhibits on Carnaval and São Luís’ Afro-Brazilian cults – especially tambor de mina, a local variant of Candomblé; but there’s no signage so you have no idea what you’re looking at.
reviewed
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Casa das Tulhas
Opposite the Museu de Artes Visuais, this 19th-century Casa das Tulhas now trades in a fascinating variety of typical Maranhão crafts and foods from dried prawns and live ducks to big bags of cashews and a bright purple cassava liquor called tiquira.
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Restaurante Antigamente
It’s a bit of a tourist trap and not as good as it used to be but this French-owned place is still a dependable lunch stop to soak up the feeling of the historic center, and a lively night option with live music shared with Le Comptoir next door (same owner).
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Solar Dos Vasconcelos
This recently-restored 19th-century mansion, the Solar Dos Vasconcelos, houses the Memorial do Centro Histórico, with models and before-and-after photos of some of the outstanding restoration works, plus a display on traditional boats of Maranhão.
reviewed
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Museu do Negro
In this building that once housed a slave market (notice the absence of windows), the Museu do Negro exhibits relics of slavery including a replica whipping-post, and a striking collection of wood carvings and statuettes from West Africa.
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Casa do Maranhão
Inside a gigantic converted warehouse, the Casa do Maranhão houses a comprehensive exhibit on the different regional flavors of Bumba Meu Boi, with guided tours in Portuguese. The ground floor has videos on Maranhão's main tourist attractions.
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Don Francisco
A excellent buffet that doesn’t try to do every dish ever known to Maranhão, but rather a select repertoire of meals that are all wonderful. The space, full of large arches and exposed brick, is also very pleasant. It’s open at night for á la carte.
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Palácio dos Leões
The Palácio dos Leões is the governor’s palace, built in the 18th century on the site of the original French fort; the quick guided tour reveals a wealth of valuable antique furnishings and art, mostly French from later eras.
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Memorial do Centro Histórico
This restored 19th-century mansion houses the Memorial do Centro Histórico, with models and before-and-after photos of some of the outstanding restoration works, plus a display on traditional boats of Maranhão.
reviewed
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La Pizzeria
Italian-run pizzeria serving excellent thin-crust pizzas…and less lovely pastas and risotto in a long, atmospheric 19th-century warehouse with historic crumbling walls. For dinner, it’s the best option in the Centro Histórico.
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Palácio de la Ravardière
Next door to the Palácio dos Leões, the Palácio de la Ravardière is the Prefeitura (City Hall) and dates back to 1689. A bust of São Luís’ French founder, Daniel de la Touche, stands before it.
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Igreja da Sé
The 17th-century cathedral, the Igreja da Sé looks along Av Dom Pedro II from its top end. Inside are ceiling frescoes decorated with babaçu motifs and a fine baroque altar.
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Le Papagaio Amarelo
Le Papagaio Amarelo, next to Restaurante Antigamente, provides a similar range of Brazilian staples such as seafood, rice and pasta dishes.You can also enjoy the live music of a nightime.
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Ceprama
The large Ceprama, 2km southeast of the city center, is housed in a renovated factory and functions as an exhibition hall and interesting sales outlet for handicrafts.
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Mandamentos
On weekends, fashionable middle-class locals go to Lagoa da Jansen to listen to relaxing music and sip drinks at lakeside live music bars like Mandamentos.
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Espaço Armazém
A fashionable upper-class crowd frequents this beautiful bar, which hosts live samba, blues, jazz and reggae in a narrow, shotgun-style space under historical archways.
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