Sights in Salvador
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Igreja NS do Bonfim
If you've ever wondered where Pelourinho vendors get their fitas (colored ribbons), look no further than the 18th-century Igreja NS do Bonfim. Fitas are a souvenir of the church and have come to symbolize Bahia itself. Bonfim's fame derives from its power to effect miraculous cures, which has transformed it from a rather ordinary church into a popular shrine.
In the Sala dos Milagres (Room of Miracles) on the right side of the church, devotees leave photos, letters and ex votos - wax replicas of body parts representing those that were cured or need curing.
Due to Candomblistas' syncretization of Jesus Christ (Nosso Senhor do Bonfim) with Oxalá, their highest deity, Bonfim…
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Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo
The original Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo, founded in 1636, burnt to the ground; the present neoclassical structure dates from 1828. The nave has a French organ (1889) and a baroque altar with a scandalous statue of Nossa Senhora do Carmo.
Church historians claim the statue was modeled in the likeness of Isabel II, the daughter of Garcia d'Ávila (of Praia do Forte fame), the largest landholder in the Northeast.
The artist, known as O Cabra (Half-caste), was a slave with no artistic training, who supposedly had a crush on Isabel II. The Christ-child cradled in the statue's arms has black features - could this be what O Cabra imagined their love child would look like?
reviewed
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Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo
The original Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo, founded in 1636, burnt to the ground; the present crumbling neoclassical structure dates from 1828. The nave has a French organ and a baroque altar with a scandalous statue of Nossa Senhora do Carmo. Church historians claim the statue was modeled in the likeness of Isabel II, the daughter of Garcia d’Ávila (of Praia do Forte fame), the largest landholder in the Northeast. The artist, known as O Cabra (Half-Caste), was a slave with no artistic training, who was supposedly besotted with Isabel II. The Christ-child cradled in the statue’s arms has black features – could this be what O Cabra imagined their love child would look…
reviewed
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Solar do Unhão
The Solar do Unhão is a wonderfully preserved 18th-century complex that served as a transfer point for sugar shipments. Legends say it is haunted by the ghosts of murdered slaves. Today, this dark place houses the Museu de Arte Moderna (%3329 0660; www.mam.ba.gov.br, in Portuguese; admission free; h2-7pm Tue-Fri, 2-10pm Sat), with a changing display of avant-garde exhibits (and erratic opening times). A fine restaurant staging a popular evening folklore show (and Saturday evening concert) occupies the former store house. The hillside sculpture garden, with bay views, is stunning at sunset. Take a taxi – the place is off bus routes and the desolate walk is known for…
reviewed
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Igreja e Convento São Francisco
Defying the teachings of the saint to which it is dedicated, the baroque Igreja e Convento São Francisco is crammed with displays of wealth. An 80kg silver chandelier dangles over ornate wood carvings smothered in gold leaf, and the convent courtyard is panelled with hand-painted azulejos (Portuguese tiles). The complex was finished in 1723.
Forced to build their masters' church and yet prohibited from practising their own religion, African slave artisans responded through their work: distorting the faces of the cherubs, endowing some angels with huge sex organs, or making others appear pregnant. Most of these creative touches were chastely covered by 20th-century…
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Museu Afro-Brasileiro
Holding one of Bahia’s most important collections, the Museu Afro-Brasileiro exhibits wood carvings, baskets, pottery and other artwork and crafts linking Brazilian and African artistic traditions. The highlight of the museum is a room lined with 27 huge, breathtaking carved wooden panels by Argentine-born Carybé, who is perhaps Salvador’s most renowned 20th-century fine artist. The panels are stylized depictions of orixás (deities of the Afro-Brazilian religions), inlaid with shells and metals. There’s also a worthwhile exhibit of photography, sacred objects and ceremonial apparel demonstrating the African roots of Brazilian Candomblé.
reviewed
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Mercado Modelo
The original 1861 Customs House was partially destroyed in a fire in 1986. After reconstruction, it was transformed into a tourist market, the Mercado Modelo. When shipments of new slaves arrived into port, they were stored in the watery depths of this building while awaiting auction. Night guards report all sorts of phantasmic activity after closing hours. Live music and free capoeira demonstrations often occur out back – be sure to ask the price before snapping photos of the capoeiristas. There’s a touristy but fun café-restaurant, Camafeu, on the upper level; the terrace, looking over the bay, is ideal for a shopping break.
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Mercado Modelo
The original 1861 Customs House was partially destroyed in a fire in 1986. After reconstruction, it was transformed into a tourist market, the Mercado Modelo . When shipments of new slaves arrived into port, they were stored in the watery depths of this building while awaiting auction. Night guards report all sorts of phantasmic activity after closing hours. Live music and free capoeira demonstrations often occur out back - be sure to ask the price before snapping photos of the capoeiristas.
On a side note, you can see why the huge modernist sculpture beside the market is affectionately called bunda (butt) by locals.
reviewed
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Museu Afro-Brasileiro
Not surprisingly given its name, the Museu Afro-Brasileiro exhibits wood carvings, baskets, pottery and other art and crafts linking Brazilian and African artistic traditions. The exhibit of photography, sacred objects and ceremonial apparel demonstrating the African roots of Brazilian Candomblé is especially fascinating.
The highlight of the museum is a large room dedicated to breathtaking carved wooden panels by Argentine-born Carybé - perhaps Salvador's most renowned 20th-century fine artist. The panels are stylised depictions of orixás (deities of the Afro-Brazilian religions), inlaid with shells and metals.
reviewed
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Elevador Lacerda
The beautifully restored, Art Deco Elevador Lacerda is made up of four elevators connecting the Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. The elevators travel along a set of 72m (236ft) vertical cement shafts in about 20 seconds, shuttling more than 50,000 passengers daily. Don't miss the view from the windows behind the elevator entrances.
Jesuits installed the first manual rope-and-pulley elevator around 1610 to more easily transport goods and passengers from the port to the settlement. In 1868 an iron structure with clanking steam elevators was inaugurated. This was replaced by an electric system in 1928.
reviewed
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Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra
Built in 1698, Bahia’s oldest fort is more commonly called the Farol da Barra for the lighthouse (South America’s oldest) within its walls. In addition to having superb views, the fort houses an excellent nautical museum, with relics and displays from the days of Portuguese seafaring (and lots of interesting information in English.) As you catch the sunset here – from the grassy ledge behind the fort or from the museum’s gorgeous terrace café – realize that Salvador’s peninsula is the only location in Brazil where the sun appears to set over the ocean.
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Praia Porto da Barra beach
Praia Porto da Barra beach is rather like the Pelourinho: small, picturesque, usually crowded, loaded with vendors selling everything imaginable, and roughly half those present are foreigners. The bay's waters are clear and calm, and the people-watching is fantastic. To the left of the lighthouse, Praia do Farol da Barra has a beach break popular with surfers. Barra's waterfront is lined with bars and restaurants and is well lit at night, but it gets a bit sleazy in the later hours.
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Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco
Displeased with the inclusion of a Mason symbol - an eagle - in the facade of the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, church fathers ordered the whole thing covered over in the late 18th century. It wasn't seen until a workman installing wiring in the 1930s serendipitously discovered the beautiful, baroque sandstone facade (the only one of its kind in Brazil). The church contains a museum with a random collection of priestly appurtenances and a room of Franciscan tombs.
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Museu Carlos Costa Pinto
In a lovely two-story mansion, the Museu Carlos Costa Pinto houses one of Salvador’s best collections of decorative art. Nicely lit displays highlight the unique works of talented artisans working in gold, crystal, porcelain and silver. Beautifully carved coral jewelry, tortoiseshell fans and elaborate balangandans (ethnic waist chains with attached charms) are among the highlights. Don’t miss the chocolate mousse at the charming outdoor café.
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Museu da Cidade
Rather like the city itself, Museu da Cidade contains an eclectic assortment of the old and the modern, the sacred and the profane. Exhibits include Candomblé orixá costumes, the personal effects of the poet Castro Alves (author of Návio Negreiro, or Slave Ship, and one of the first public figures to protest slavery), and traditional rag dolls enacting quotidian colonial life, as well as paintings and sculptures.
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Museu da Misericórdia
The newly opened Museu da Misericórdia is housed in yet another marvelous 17th-century edifice, this one serving as Brazil's first hospital. Visits here include a guided tour (in Portuguese) that allows a glimpse of fine period furnishings, portraits and assorted finery dating back four centuries. You'll also see the attached Igreja da Misericórdia, with its azulejos and a sacristy featuring impressive 18th-century woodwork.
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Museu da Cidade
Rather like the city itself, Museu da Cidade contains an eclectic assortment of the old and the modern, the sacred and the profane. Exhibits include Candomblé orixá costumes, the personal effects of the poet Castro Alves (author of Návio Negreiro, Slave Ship, and one of the first public figures to protest slavery), and traditional rag dolls enacting quotidian colonial life, as well as paintings and sculptures.
reviewed
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Museu Carlos Costa Pinta
In a lovely two-story mansion, the Museu Carlos Costa Pinta houses one of Salvador's best collections of decorative art. Nicely lit displays highlight the unique works of talented artisans working in gold, crystal, porcelain and silver. Beautifully carved coral jewelry, tortoiseshell fans and elaborate balangandans (ethnic waist chains with attached charms) are among the highlights. Don't miss the charming outdoor café.
reviewed
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Museu da Misericórdia
The Museu da Misericórdia is housed in a marvelous 17th-century edifice, this one serving as Brazil’s first hospital. Visits here include a guided tour (in Portuguese) that allows a glimpse of fine period furnishings, portraits and assorted finery dating back four centuries. You’ll also see the attached Igreja da Misericórdia, with its azulejos and a sacristy featuring impressive 18th-century woodwork.
reviewed
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Igreja NS do Rosário dos Pretos
The king of Portugal gave the Irmanidade dos Homens Pretos (Brotherhood of Black Men) the land for the periwinkle-blue Igreja NS do Rosário dos Pretos in 1704. Building in their free time, it took these slaves and freed slaves almost 100 years to complete it. The rococo facade includes design elements pertaining to Candomblé (ask a guide to point them out) and tiled towers with an indigenous flavor.
reviewed
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Elevador Lacerda
The beautifully restored, art-deco Elevador Lacerda connects the Cidade Alta with Comércio, via four elevators traveling 72m in about 20 seconds. The Jesuits installed the first manual rope-and-pulley elevator around 1610 to transport goods and passengers from the port to the settlement. In 1868 an iron structure with clanking steam elevators was inaugurated, replaced by an electric system in 1928.
reviewed
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Pelourinho
The centerpiece of the Cidade Alta is the Pelourinho ( M01E1), a Unesco-declared World Heritage site of colorful colonial buildings and magnificent churches. The area has undergone major restoration work - which remains ongoing - since 1993 thanks to Unesco funding. Admittedly, the Pelô has lost a lot of its character in the process, but to say that it is now safer and better preserved is an understatement.
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Igreja NS do Rosário dos Pretos
The king of Portugal gave the Irmanidade dos Homens Pretos (Brotherhood of Black Men) the land for the periwinkle-blue Igreja NS do Rosário dos Pretos in 1704. Building in their free time, it took these slaves and freed slaves almost 100 years to complete it. The rococo facade includes design elements pertaining to Candomblé (ask a guide to point them out) and tiled towers with an Indian flavor.
reviewed
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Mercado São Joaquim
The die-hard market fan will enjoy Mercado São Joaquim, a small city of sketchy waterfront stalls about 2km north of the Elevador Lacerda. Puddles of green slime, a meat neighborhood capable of converting the unprepared into a devout vegetarian, and bar stalls where rough hands grip glasses of rougher cachaça (sugarcane alcohol) let you know this is the real thing.
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Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco
Displeased with the inclusion of a Mason symbol – an eagle – in the facade of the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, church fathers ordered the whole thing covered over in the late 18th century. It wasn’t seen until a workman installing wiring in the 1930s serendipitously discovered the beautiful, baroque sandstone facade (the only one of its kind in Brazil).
reviewed