Things to do in Olinda
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A
Igreja NS do Amparo
Head down Rua Saldanha Marinho to look at the restored 1613 Igreja NS do Amparo.
reviewed
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B
Creperia
A nice spot for crepes, pizza and salads, which you can enjoy on a pleasant outdoor patio under tall bamboo trees.
reviewed
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Museu de Arte Contemporânea
This museum is recommended for both its permanent and temporary exhibits. It’s housed in an 18th-century Inquisition jail.
reviewed
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D
Igreja NS do Rosário dos Homens Pretos de Olinda
This church was built by an African brotherhood in the 17th century. Frescoes painted by slaves were revealed here during a recent restoration.
reviewed
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E
Xinxim de Baiana
Dark, sweaty Xinxim really fills with a hip crowd for the live forró from 10pm on Wednesday. There’s a R$10 cover when it hosts live afoxé (rare).
reviewed
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Oficina do Sabor
Baked pumpkin stuffed with shrimp and lobster in passion fruit sauce – best single dish this author has ever had in Brazil! This is one of the North-east’s best, and worth every centavo.
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GRES Preto Velho
This Alto da Sé bar is worth checking out late Fridays for local bands, Saturdays for live afoxé, and Sundays for samba school rehearsal – all soundtracks to a spectacular view.
reviewed
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Angola Mãe
If you’d like to check out a capoeira school, Angola Mãe teaches the slower and more traditional Angola style. The roda is the circular formation around which capoeira is performed.
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Convento de São Francisco
This is a large structure containing the 16th-century Igreja NS das Neves and two later chapels, with rich baroque detailing and lovely azulejos (Portuguese ceramic tiles).
reviewed
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I
Museu do Mamulengo
This museum has a unique and surprisingly interesting collection of over 1000 pieces devoted to the traveling puppet shows called Mamulengos, an authentic popular tradition of the North-east.
reviewed
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J
Maison do Bomfim
A smart, French-run place that has been around for more than a decade, with nice decor and even better filet mignon, fish and prawns (there’s pizza, too, but only for dinner). Service is friendly but isn’t spawned from the same European gene.
reviewed
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K
Patuá
The friendly Patuá does a very nice regional all-you-can-eat lunch buffet (try the bobó de camarão – fresh shrimp in pureed manioc) in air-conditioned circumstances with actual smiling waitresses, while à la carte options are seafood-heavy.
reviewed
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L
Estacão Café
Olinda is buzzing over this artsy café, a perfect little cappuccino and macchiato pit stop or for lighter bites such as quiche, salad and sandwiches. The hand-painted table-tops are a beautiful touch. There’s free chorinho (little choro) at 7pm on Saturday.
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Bodega do Véio
Part small store, part bar, Olinda’s best dive serves ice-cold bottled beer and little charcuterie plates, and tries its best to manage the crowds of locals and tourists congregating on the street and the small terraces. A choro group plays here from 7:30pm most Thursday and Saturday evenings, with the former swelling to an all-out street party by 9pm.
reviewed
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N
Mosteiro de São Bento
Built in 1582, the huge Mosteiro de São Bento has some exceptional woodcarving in its church. Brazil’s first law school was housed here for 24 years. The monastery celebrates mass complete with Gregorian chants at 6am daily and 10am and 6pm Sunday. To arrive here, follow Av 10 de Novembro to Praça Monsegnor Fabrici and turn left on Rua São Bento.
reviewed
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O
Igreja da Sé
The imposing Igreja da Sé was originally built in 1537. Burnt in 1631, it has been reconstructed four times since, most recently from 1974 to 1984 in a Mannerist style that attempts to re-create the original 16th-century look. Check the touching inscription in simple Portuguese on the wooden door to the left inside the entrance. It is located atop Alto da Sé (Cathedral Heights).
reviewed
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P
Museu de Arte Sacra de Pernambuco
This museum is housed in Olinda’s former Episcopal Palace, built in 1676. It was closed for restorations during our visit, but it normally contains a good collection of sacred art and a photographic homage to the city. Along the street, the Igreja da Misericórdia, built in 1540, has fine azulejos and gilded carvings, but was closed for restorations during our visit.
reviewed