Things to do in João Pessoa
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Mangai
This spectacular regional buffet is worth the stop in João Pessoa alone. Nearly everything is labeled in English and there’s plenty for vegetarians. Save room for the decadent caramelized cashews smothered in doce de leite (creamy milk-and-sugar concoction) and chocolate.
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Praia do Jacaré
Almost every Brazilian tourist who comes to João Pessoa comes to the Rio Paraíba north of the city to hear saxophonist Jurandy play Ravel’s Bolero at sunset, which has spawned a tourism empire along the water’s edge (some come from as far away as Natal and Recife just for this). It sounds corny but it’s definitely a spectacle worth witnessing, and quite beautiful. Four overwater bars play host (try Bombardo for the added bonus of violinist Belle Soares, who plays afterwards). Arrive by 4:30pm (4pm in winter) to get a choice seat. A round-trip taxi from Tambaú (including wait time) is R$50.
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John People Bar
This modern boteco (neighborhood bar) sits on prime people-watching real estate in Tambaú. There’s a front patio and breezy rooftop deck overlooking the stage elevated above the bar. Live music starts at 9:30pm and varies between forrópé-da-serra, a slower form of forró, on Tuesday, MPB (Música Popular Brasileira) by a Dave Matthews-esque power trio from Wednesday to Friday and samba on Saturday. A 2500ml tube of chope (draft beer) here runs R$28 – saúde !
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Estação Cabo Branco
Inaugurated in 2008, the Estação Cabo Branco is one of the latest buildings designed by famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. The exhibition and cultural space is well worth tacking on to a visit to the easternmost tip of the Americas in Ponta do Seixas; or for fans of Niemeyer’s space-age work in general. It houses rotating art exhibits, a small planetarium and, best of all, a spectacular view over João Pessoa when the panoramic café opens.
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Igreja São Francisco
This church, the principal tourist attraction in the center, is one of Brazil’s finest. Construction was interrupted by battles with the Dutch and French, resulting in a beautiful but architecturally confused complex built over two centuries (1589–1779). The facade, the church towers and the adjoining Santo Antônio monastery display a hodgepodge of styles. Portuguese-tile walls lead up to the church’s carved jacaranda doors.
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Giramundo
Overcooked picanha (choice beef cuts) shouldn’t stop you from having a good time at this wildly popular beach kiosk, a Swiss-Brazilian endeavor, notable not only for the usual suspects, but also for the out-of-place grilled bratwurst, currywurst, kalbsbratwurst and Eisenbahn microbrews – none of which are often seen north of Santa Catarina.
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Empório Café
Early evening this retro-indie café/bar dishes up great value salads, sandwiches, quiches and soups – you name it, with loads of veggie options – to a beautiful crowd. As the evening wears on, it packs in more trend and beauty for cocktails and indie tunes (DJs on weekends after 11pm).
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Açaí da Quadra
This unassuming spot is the place for an afternoon/early evening bowl of Brazilian delight: açaí completo: overflowing with bananas, honey, raisons and cashews.
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Boi Bumbar
This is an excellent self-serve lunch place in Tambaú; good for meats and fish, and great for salads and cheeses.
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