Things to do in Ilhéus
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Tours
Trips to a tree-sloth recuperation center, a chocolate factory and Primavera Fazenda, where you'll be taken through the process of cacao production, can all be arranged through local travel agencies. Tours are also given of Lagoa Encantada, a state-protected area of Atlantic rain forest with waterfalls and wildlife; Rio do Engenho, an estate with Bahia's first sugarcane mill; and the Capela de Santana (1537), Brazil's third-oldest church.
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City Center
The city center is located on a beach-lined point that reaches into the mouth of the Rio Cachoeira, and is sandwiched between two hills. On the southern side of the s-curving river mouth is the modern neighborhood of Pontal. The best thing to do in Ilhéus is explore the old streets. The center has several old, gargoyled buildings. Lively during the day, the center clears out after dark, making it unsafe to wander.
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Beaches
City beaches are dirty. Your best bet is to head south, but even then you'll find that area's beaches are best for a futebol game (broad and flat), and it takes kilometers for the water to lose the muddy color of the river outflow. Praia dos Milionários (7km) has some barracas and is popular with locals, as is the prettier Praia Cururupe (12km), where a small river curves into the sea.
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Casa de Jorge Amado
The Casa de Jorge Amado, where the great writer lived with his parents while working on his first novel, has been restored and turned into a lovely and informative museum honoring Amado’s life. Not many writers can boast this sort of recognition while still alive, but he became a national treasure well before his death in 2001.
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Bataclan
Once a cabaret frequented by cocoa tycoons (and one of the settings for Amado’s Gabriela) the Bataclan was restored to its original brilliance in 2004. Now the colonial building serves as a restaurant, lounge and cultural center staging frequent concerts and art exhibitions. Stop by at night for Bahian cuisine or cocktails.
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Catedral de São Sebastião
The Catedral de São Sebastião is the city’s icon – construction began in 1931 – and is a unique, eclectic mix of architectural styles. For an unforgettable view of the fairy-tale-like spires, walk out onto the beach at sunset and look back at the cathedral silhouetted against the clouds.
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Bar Vesúvio
This landmark bar and restaurant attracts both Amado fans (two of his protagonists met here) and those interested in moquecas and cold beer served at the outdoor tables facing the cathedral, which is beautifully illuminated at night.
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Maria de São Jorge
In a colonial building in the old quarter, this charming spot has a small but top-quality lunch buffet. Bahian artwork and colorful décor adds to the allure.
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Sabor do Sul
Dozens of different varieties of calzone and pizza, including one topped with fresh shrimp, are on offer at this downtown pizzeria that’s popular with locals.
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Órbita Expedições
Órbita Expedições is an adventure outfit that offers a wide range of tours, including rafting, canoeing, hiking and cycling trips.
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Lanchonete Jorge Amado
Have a morning coffee on the tiny patio of the literary-themed Lanchonete Jorge Amado, just across from the Prefeitura.
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Prefeitura
The best thing to do in Ilhéus is explore the old streets. The center has several old, gargoyled buildings such as the Prefeitura.
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Igreja de São Jorge
The Igreja de São Jorge is the city’s oldest church, dating from 1534, and houses a small sacred-art museum.
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Don Giovanni
One of Ilheus' classiest dining rooms, this Italian restaurant overlooking the water serves tasty pastas and pizzas.
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Barrakítika
This casual hangout has outdoor tables and an inexpensive lunch buffet. There’s live music on weekend evenings.
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Catedral Basílica San Marino
The Catedral Basílica San Marino is the city's icon and a unique, eclectic mix of architectural styles.
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Mestre Cuca
This popular spot spreads an excellent self-service lunch, and the airy dining room has partial sea views.
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Larika
A stand serving sandwiches and fresh fruit juices at bayside tables.
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Dona Café
A pretty coffee stand on the main square across from the cathedral.
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