Restaurants in Belém
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Xicara da Silva
Plenty of people say this popular restaurant prepares the city's best pizza and pasta, and you won't find any arguments to the contrary here. With artful and comfortable dining areas indoors and on a raised patio, the atmosphere is just as appealing. For something smaller, try the quiche. Squeezed into a small leafy lot near the huge Lider Z mall.
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Lá em Casa
A little-known fact is that this Belém institution is in fact two restaurants side by side, neither of them called Lá em Casa. That's the old name, but the owners haven't bothered to take down the sign, and besides, you'll only get funny looks asking for the real names: ‘Vero-o-Pesinho' (per kilo R$29; open for lunch, closed Saturday) has a tasty self-serve spread in a casual bistro-like setting, while ‘O Outro' (mains R$16 to R$50; open for lunch Sunday only) is a formal glass-walled restaurant with international fare and expert service.
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Boteco das Onze
Part of Casa das Onze Janelas gallery, this classy joint is one of the city’s best restaurant-bars for lunch, dinner and beyond. You can sit in either the dining room with modern art on the walls, or on the breezy back patio overlooking the river. Meals include moqueca de filhote, a tasty stew prepared with catfish, shrimp and lobster. There’s live music virtually every night (cover R$6 to R$10), and plenty of good beer and drinks to choose from.
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Santo Antonio
One of Belém’s best and coolest eateries, this café-bakery-restaurant has a large selection of sandwiches and hot meals, and a spacious artsy interior with tile-topped tables and bossa nova tunes. Create your own ’wich from made-today breads and tasty meats and cheese (R$8 to R$12) or order from the menu: the open-face francesinha sandwiches are to die for, with hot meat and melted cheese on a French roll.
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Dom Britto
A cool sleek interior and expertly prepared dishes make this a popular spot with professionals and guests at nearby upscale hotels. Though it’s more expensive than other per-kilo places – but not by much – the mellow ambience and always-on air-conditioning can be just the respite you need in the middle of a long hot day. The Sunday spread is even fancier, and costs $35 per kg.
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Do Campo
This new restaurant's R$10 all-you-can-eat lunch buffet – not per kilo – is one of the best deals in town, especially considering the quality of the spread, including grilled meats, stewed veggies and pasta. Knock on wood it's a permanent feature, but even if the prices go up, the classy setting and lively nighttime bar would still make this a worthy stop.
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Cosanostra Caffé
The dim lighting and unmarked entrance lend a certain Goodfellas ambience, and Frank Sinatra happened to be playing when we visited, but the beefy guys at the bar are mostly businesspeople on a break. Lunch specials include a main dish, side dish and soda for R$10, or order larger plates off the menu. The bar is open late, and there’s live music after 11pm.
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Tia Maria
It's hard not to stop at the sight of the chairs here, whose shaggy, multicolored upholstering makes them look like pom-poms, or the Fry Guys from the '70s McDonald's commercials. And once you stop, you may as well pop in for a piece of pie, which comes in a dozen or so varieties. Better yet, come here for dessert after Italian dinner across the street.
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K’Delícias IV
One of the few eateries open on Sunday, its extensive and smartly displayed spread makes this one of the center’s best per-kilo spots, and with air-con blasting, one of the most comfortable too. The original K’Delícias I (lunch Monday to Saturday) is smaller but better located, on Rua 28 de Setembro 276 just off Av Presidente Vargas.
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Mãe Natureza
The sterile dining room doesn’t do justice to the unique vegan lunch buffet, though the air-con will have you ahh-ing even before you get to the food. Mãe Natureza – the name is Portuguese for ‘Mother Nature’ – uses only fresh veggies and ingredients (even raw sugar) and makes its own soy milk.
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Cia Paulista de Pizza
You wouldn’t know from the dining room that this is actually a chain restaurant, as the wineglasses, tablecloths, attentive waiters and recorded jazz create a unique and classy ambience. Prices are quite affordable, and the pizza and pasta excellent.
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Santa Pizza
Sharp decor, hip music and mood lighting make Santa Pizza, between Travessa Tiradentes and Rua Boaventura da Silva, feel more like a lounge bar than a pizzeria, which was precisely the point. The outdoor tables are especially nice on warm evenings.
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Restaurante Belo Centro
This friendly, airy restaurant cooks up tasty self-serve, with plenty of options for vegetarians and carnivores. It can be hard to find – look for a sandwich-board sign and narrow stairway at the back of an eyeglasses store.
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Restaurant Açaí
Though lacking in character – and with prices that are high even for a hotel restaurant – this is a decent option late or on weekends, when many other places are closed.
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Cantina Italiana
The pink walls of this cozy pasta and pizza restaurant are covered with framed photos and artwork.
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