Things to do in Alter Do Chão
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Lago Verde
This huge three-fingered lake is surrounded by forest, and has places to swim, snorkel, and spot birds and animals (including a resident family of monkeys). Tour operators offer enjoyable boat tours; if you go in the afternoon, the tour usually ends at Ponta de Cururú, a good spot to see the sunset and river dolphins. Freelance boatmen on the waterfront do the same for cheaper, but typically don't have the same service or equipment that agencies do.
You can also rent a kayak at the waterfront and explore the lagoon on your own; just be alert to for strong waves and currents. Stingrays are a concern in shallow areas of Ilha do Amor, Lago Verde and in the river. One of the…
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Beaches
A good sandy beach, Praia do Cajuiero, faces the Rio Tapajós on the west side of the village. Beaches further afield are best reached in a car, including Pindobal (8km), Cajutuba (16km), Aramanai (26km) and Ponta de Pedras (28km). Tour operators in town also offer day trips that include stopping at isolated no-name beaches along the main channel.
Stingrays are a concern in shallow areas of Ilha do Amor, Lago Verde and in the river. One of their nicknames is 'Wish-You-Were-Dead Fish' if that's any indication of the painfulness of their sting. Fortunately, rays are very skittish and prefer muddy areas over sandy ones, which means they're fairly uncommon in busy areas of Il…
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Jungle Tours
Tour operators in town offer multiday jungle trips from Alter do Chão. Most are on riverboats, where you eat and sleep onboard (in hammocks or small cabins) and stop at different locations for outings. Prices vary, but expect to pay R$120 to R$250 per person per day for most trips, with a minimum of two people.
As anywhere in the Amazon, there is no guarantee you will see wildlife; in fact, this region is better known for its flora, like massive sumauná trees and Vitória Régia water lilies, than its animal life. That said, it is possible to spot dolphins, sloth, monkeys, crocodiles and numerous bird species.
There are various options including visiting rubber tapper co…
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Centro de Proteçã ao Peixe-Boi
Lago Verde is home to the Centro de Proteçã ao Peixe-Boi, (better known as the projeto peixe-boi - 'manatee project') which rehabilitates orphaned and injured manatees. Most are juveniles, and are kept in floating enclosures in the lake. Do not approach the enclosures! Rather, go to the lakeshore shack for a some interesting background, then you can tag along in the boat to see the feedings.
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Ilha do Amor
When the water is low, you can wade from the waterfront to Ilha do Amor. Otherwise, rowboats will take you across for R$2 per person. On the tip of the island closest town, bevy shacks serve food and drinks year-round, and have chairs set up along the water's edge. For a little more solitude, simply walk further down the island (but be especially careful of stingrays if you do.)
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Farol da Ilha
Back to its original name after a brief spell as ‘La Oca,’ this waterfront restaurant has always had first-rate fish meals to match its outstanding river and island vistas. Most dishes serve two people, and are priced accordingly. Single dishes aren’t much of a value; solo travelers can order cheaper chicken dishes or just come here for drinks and the view.
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Mãe Natureza Tours
Experienced agency offering recommended excursions and multiday tours throughout the area, including Lago Verde, FLONA, Rio Tapajós, Rio Arapiuns, Monte Alegre, Alenquer, and others. Operated by amiable Argentinean transplants Jorge Bassi and Claudio Chena (who lives on-site).
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La Oca
With good views of the river and Ilha do Amor, this recommended restaurant (formerly Farol da Vila) serves an excellent fish and seafood, including mosques, a sort of seafood stew that serves two easily. Next to Belas Praias Pousada.
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Tribal
Huge and well-prepared fish dishes serve two easily, with potato salad to spare at this popular open-air restaurant. Good grilled beef and chicken also served. Single portions available.
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Arariba
Arguably the best indigenous art store in the Amazon, with items ranging from inexpensive necklaces to museum-quality masks and ceremonial figures. Credit cards accepted.
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Mãe Natureza
Nightly bar and pizza service, with great international music and tables set up on the street right outside the shop. Good place to meet other travelers.
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Vento em Popa Tours
Vento em Popa, next door to Mãe Natureza, offers excursions and multiday tours throughout the area.
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