Things to do in Cuiabá
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Museu Histórico de Mato Grosso
Inside a restored colonial building on Praça da República, the Museu Histórico de Mato Grosso is an interesting stroll through the state’s history. Each room represents a different period and houses extensive collections of silver, military paraphernalia, and other historical odds and ends. Much of the history is illustrated in vibrant paintings by local artist Moacyr Freitas, though some artistic license is involved, for example in the Destrução do Quilombo do Piolho, where a North American bald eagle soars over the weary yet bemused slaves.
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Museu Rondon
The small Museu Rondon has exhibits on the Xavante, Bororo and Karajá tribes and is well worth a visit to check out the ornate indigenous headdresses and some vicious weaponry. It is on the grounds of the Federal University of Mato Grosso (UFMT). To get there, catch a 103 Jd Universitário bus (R$1.85) on Av Tenente Coronel Duarte. Once you hit campus, the museum is behind the Aquatic Park. If you are there as the sun sets, hang around to watch the arrival of the flocks of herons and egrets that roost nearby.
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Museu Morro da Caixa D´Agua Velha
Probably the city’s oddest museum is the Museu Morro da Caixa D´Agua Velha, which brings together a variety of frankly weird water-themed trinkets, from old tubes to shower heads. Far more interesting than the display is the construction itself, the city’s former water tank dating from 1882 and built in the style of a Roman aqueduct.
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Centro Geodésico da America do Sul
An obelisk marks the Centro Geodésico da America do Sul, one of the exact centers of the continent according to the locals. There is of course only one real exact centre of South America, but inhabitants of Chapada dos Guimarães claim that it actually resides there. If you care enough to find out who is right, check Google Earth!
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Tom Choppin
Outstanding brews and views are the draw for Cuiabá’s well-to-do at this cleverly named open-air MPB (Música Popular Brasileira) bar perched high above the city. Mondays get lively for choro, an informal, instrumental style of music. It’s halfway between centro and the zoo.
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Conde de Azambuja
If pretensions aren’t your bag but drunk, dancing Brazilians are, then give this traditional bar in the old town a try. It’s not easy on the eye, but let the Skols flow and you may find yourself having more fun than you expected. Live music on Thursday to Sunday.
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Mercado do Porto
Close to the municipal aquarium, the Mercado do Porto houses the fish market, with a variety of species, as well as a vegetable and spice market. It’s a good place to check out what the region’s fish look like before they arrive at your table.
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Patriota
A cool hangout during the day (and not just because of the air-con!) with a pleasant deck for people-watching after dark as you sip an ice-cold chope. Upmarket in everything but price, with a weekday happy hour (from 5pm to 9pm).
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Al Manzul
It’s difficult to argue with reports that this is the best Middle Eastern restaurant in all of Brazil. There’s no menu: it’s a 30-dish feast of Last Supper proportions. Reserve in advance.
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Confrade
A massive microbrewery that offers chope laced with caramel, mint and syrup in addition to the usual suspects. Stick to the standards. There’s live MPB every night of the week.
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Getúlio
An upmarket bar-restaurant popular with young Cuiabános. There’s a respectable wine list, and DJs on the outdoor patio every night. On Saturday, the party moves upstairs for dancing.
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Pizza na Pedra
A lively pizzeria right on ‘Praça Popular’. It does an excellent pizza rodízio (all you can eat) on Tuesday and Thursday for R$28. Save room for the ridiculous sweet pizzas.
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Choppão
Occupying an entire junction, this Cuiabá institution offers huge portions of meat and fish for two, all chased with frigid chope (draft beer) in specially iced tankards.
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Casa do Artesão
Seven themed rooms full of Mato Grosso handicrafts and sweets, including ceramics, woodcarvings, straw baskets and pequi créme liquor.
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Peixaria Popular
The lunch course for one will feed you plus a horse. It comes with three types of regional fish dishes and all the accompaniments. A must.
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Artíndia
Excellent indigenous handicrafts from all over Brazil, including rattan handbags and a healthy arsenal of spears.
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