Things to do in Bonito
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Rio da Prata
Within a fazenda, 56km south of Bonito, the marvelous Rio da Prata program includes a short trek through rain forest and some great snorkeling. The latter involves a 3km swim downstream along the Rio Olha d’Agua, amazingly crystal clear and full of 55 species of fish; and Rio da Prata, a little foggier but still fantastic for viewing massive pacu and big, scary dourado fish. This place should be near the top of your list. The afternoon visit to Buraco das Araras (R$25), often tagged on, is forgettable, though.
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Abismo de Anhumas
Abismo de Anhumas, 20km west of Bonito, is like a journey to Middle Earth. It’s a 72m abyss culminating in an underground lake, home to incredible stalactite formations. The tour involves rappelling down to the bottom and snorkeling in the lake (visibility is 30m). You can also opt for diving if you have a basic certificate. The whole thing is otherworldly – Bonito’s most unforgettable attraction by a landslide, but it’s limited to 18 visitors per day. The rappelling training center is in town and you must successfully complete your training before 6pm on the day before your visit.
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Reserva Ecológica Baía Bonita
Seven kilometers southeast of Bonito, the Reserva Ecológica Baía Bonita is home to the Aquário Natural and the Trilha dos Animais. The half-day tour includes snorkeling in a beautiful natural spring with 30 varieties of fish and subaquatic vegetation, and then a short 900m flotation in the Rio Baía Bonita. The price includes wetsuits, snorkels and lunch. You can also tack on an optional visit to the Trilha dos Animais, a zoo of regional animals including an impressive anaconda, a well-trained tapir and a cute little ocelot.
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Boca da Onça Ecotour
The Boca da Onça Ecotour, 59km northwest of Bonito, is a nicely manicured 4km trail through the forest to a series of 11 waterfalls, a few of which you can take a chilly dip in. It all culminates with the 156m Boca da Onça waterfall, an impressive cascading waterfall that takes the state’s highest honors. It’s an 880-step climb back to the fazenda, where there is an excellent lunch and hang time by a fantastic natural river-water pool, full of local fish.
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Gruta do Lago Azul
A bargain attraction is the Gruta do Lago Azul, a large cave with a luminous underground lake and stalactite formations 20km west of Bonito. It’s often the postcard view of Bonito, and is worth seeing, but it’s only truly miraculous in late December and early January, when the sun shines in at just the right angle.
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Balneário Municipal
The Balneário Municipal is a natural swimming pool on the Rio Formoso with clear water and lots of fish, 7km southeast of town. You can spend the whole day here mingling with locals and have lunch at the kiosks. Macaws also make regular appearances. Grab a moto-taxi to get there (R$7 one way).
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Cantinho do Peixe
Pintado (a type of catfish), fresh from Rio Miranda, ends up on plates 15 different ways at this simple but tasty spot just off the main drag. Try the pintado á urucum, a lasagna-like dish of pintado smothered in a tomato, condensed milk and mozzarella sauce.
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A Casa do João
The new top spot in town for fish dishes, being especially famous for its traíra (a predatory fish) which comes in a range of sizes depending on your appetite. All the furniture here is made from recycled wood from fallen trees in the local area.
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Project Jibóia
Project Jibóia represents a one-man crusade to change the world’s opinion of snakes. Visiting here represents an entertaining hour or so, complete with boa constrictors that you nearly swap spit with by the end of the night.
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Pantanal Carnes Exóticos
Got a craving for capybara with bacon? What about peccary with pineapple? Make a beeline for Pantanal Carnes Exóticos. It’s pricey but you’ll find dishes here that you don’t get in your local café. Don’t worry, the meat is farmed, not wild.
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Taboa Bar
A graffiti-fueled institution on the main drag where locals and travelers converge over the house special: pinga (cachaça) mixed with honey, cinnamon and guaraná.
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Santa Esmeralda
Pastas (R$14 to R$18) with your choice of sauce, and excellent barbecue meat served on lengthy espetinhos (skewers).
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Sale & Pepe
Has a decent selection of Chinese and Japanese dishes with a Pantaneiro slant, such as yakisoba jacaré.
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San Marino Pizza
The four-cheese pizza from this outlet of the Campo Grande pizzeria of the same name is the best in town.
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Vicio da Gula Café
Popular corner spot for great burgers, fries and açaí na tigela (a berrylike fruit, in a bowl).
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O Casarão
Bouncing buffet joint on the main drag. It’s worth paying the extra for the fish rodízio.
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