Dark sights in Brazil
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Colônia Penal Cândido Mendes
Dois Rios served as the site of the Colônia Penal Cândido Mendes, Ilha Grande's last functioning prison, used to hold political prisoners during the military regime that took power in 1964, and finally destroyed (literally blown up!) by order of the state government in 1994.
Before hitting the trail, let people at your pousada know where you're going and when you'll be back, stock up on water and bug repellent and bring a flashlight, as darkness comes swiftly under the jungle canopy. Guides are advisable for exploring beyond the most heavily traveled routes - poorly marked trails and poisonous snakes can make things challenging.
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A
Mercado Modelo
The original 1861 Customs House was partially destroyed in a fire in 1986. After reconstruction, it was transformed into a tourist market, the Mercado Modelo . When shipments of new slaves arrived into port, they were stored in the watery depths of this building while awaiting auction. Night guards report all sorts of phantasmic activity after closing hours. Live music and free capoeira demonstrations often occur out back - be sure to ask the price before snapping photos of the capoeiristas.
On a side note, you can see why the huge modernist sculpture beside the market is affectionately called bunda (butt) by locals.
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As Misões
As Misões is a mildly interesting complex overlooking the mouth of Lago de Tefé and the main channel of the Rio Solimões. Founded in 1897, it has a well-kept garden, huge decaying church, and a cemetery full of former missionaries. The main building was a church-run vocational school where many of Tefé’s masons, metalworkers and other skilled tradesmen were trained. The elfish priest, Padre Altino from the north of Portugal, gives spirited tours to anyone who’s interested. The best time to come is Tuesday to Friday; to get there, hire a boat from the waterfront.
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B
Museu da Inconfidência
The Museu da Inconfidência, formerly the old municipal headquarters and jail, is an attractive building built between 1784 and 1854, on the south side of Praça Tiradentes. The museum contains the tomb of Tiradentes, documents of the Inconfidência Mineira, torture instruments and important works by Ataíde and Aleijadinho.
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Casa da Câmara e Cadeia
At the Casa da Câmara e Cadeia, organized criminals ran the show upstairs and disorganized criminals were kept behind bars downstairs. The building dates to 1698 and served as the seat of the Bahian government in 1822. The old marble pillory was removed from out front after abolition.
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C
Capela de NS das Dores
Capela de NS das Dores, the church of the colonial white elite, was built in 1800 and renovated in 1901. It houses a small art gallery and a fascinating cemetery in the inner courtyard.
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