Sights in Rio De Janeiro
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Cristo Redentor
Atop Corcovado (which means ‘hunchback’), Cristo Redentor gazes out over Rio, a placid expression on his well-crafted face. The mountain rises straight up from the city to 710m, and at night, the brightly lit, 38m-high statue is visible from nearly every part of the city – all 1145 tons of the open-armed redeemer.
reviewed
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Ipanema & Leblon Beaches
Although the beaches of Ipanema and Leblon are one long beach, the postos (posts) along them subdivide the beach into areas as diverse as the city itself. Posto 9, right off Rua Vinícius de Moraes, is Garota de Ipanema, which is where Rio’s most lithe and tanned bodies tend to migrate. The area is also known as the Cemetério dos Elefantes because of the handful of old leftists, hippies and artists who sometimes hang out there. In front of Rua Farme de Amoedo the beach is known as Bolsa de Valores or Crystal Palace (this is the gay section), while Posto 8 further up is mostly the domain of favela kids. Arpoador, between Ipanema and Copacabana, is Rio’s most popular surf sp…
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Copacabana & Leme Beach
A magnificent confluence of land and sea, the long, scalloped beach of Copacabana and Leme runs for 4km, with a flurry of activity always stretching along its length: over-amped soccer players singing their team’s anthem, Cariocas and tourists lining up for caipirinhas at kiosks, favela kids showing off their soccer skills, beach vendors shouting out their wares among the beached and tanned bodies.
As in Ipanema, each group stakes out their stretch of sand. Leme is a mix of older residents and favela kids, while the area between the Copacabana Palace Hotel and Rua Fernando Mendes is the gay and transvestite section, known as the Stock or Stock Market – easily recognized…
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Arcos da Lapa
The landmark aqueduct dates from the mid-1700s when it was built to carry water from the Carioca River to downtown Rio. In a style reminiscent of ancient Rome, the 42 arches stand 64m high. Today, it carries the famous bonde on its way to and from Santa Teresa atop the hill.
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Museu Histórico Nacional
Housed in the colonial arsenal, which dates from 1764, the impressive Museu Histórico Nacional contains over 250,000 historic relics relating to the history of Brazil from its founding to its early days as a republic. The museum is located near Praça Marechal Âncora and features many well-designed displays, from gilded imperial coaches and the throne of Dom Pedro II to massive oil paintings depicting the horrific combat in the war with Paraguay. There’s some attention paid to Brazil’s indigenous population and to curious relics such as the writing quill that Princess Isabel used to sign the document abolishing slavery in Brazil and a full-sized model of a colonial pharma…
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Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
Rio’s Museu Nacional de Belas Artes houses more than 18,000 original paintings and sculptures, some of which date back to works brought over from Portugal by Dom João VI in 1808. One of its most important galleries is the Galeria de Arte Brasileira, with 20th-century classics such as Cândido Portinari’s Café. Other galleries display Brazilian folk art, African art and furniture, as well as contemporary exhibits. Guided tours are available in English (call ahead).
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Paço Imperial
Built in 1743, the Paço Imperial hosts worthwhile multimedia exhibitions. Originally built as a governor’s residence, it later served as the home to Dom João and his family when the Portuguese royals fled Napoleon and transferred the throne to the colony. In 1888 Princesa Isabel proclaimed the Freedom from Slavery Act from the palace’s steps. In addition to exhibitions, there are several restaurants, and a café and music store on the 1st floor.
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Instituto Moreira Salles
The beautiful Instituto Moreira Salles, next to the Parque da Cidade, contains an archive of more than 80,000 photographs, many portraying the old streets of Rio. The gardens, complete with artificial lake and flowing river, were designed by Brazilian landscape architect Burle Marx. There’s also a craft shop and a café serving lunch and afternoon tea.
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Forte Duque de Caxias
More commonly known as Forte do Leme, this military base is open to the public on weekends, when visitors can access the forested trail skirting up to the top of Morro de Leme. The short but steep trail passes through Atlantic rain forest and by the ruins of an earlier 18th-century fort that stood here. The views from the top are magnificent.
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Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Housed in a beautifully restored building dating from 1906, the Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil is one of Brazil’s best cultural centers, with a cinema, two theaters and some of the city’s best (and free) exhibitions. There’s always something going on at CCBB – visit the website for listings.
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Jardim Botânico
The exotic Jardim Botânico, housing over 8000 plant species, was designed by order of Prince Regent Dom João in 1808. It’s quiet and serene on weekdays and blossoms with families and music on weekends. A pleasant outdoor café overlooks the gardens. Take insect repellent.
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Centro
Rio's bustling commercial district, Centro is a blend of high-rise office buildings with remnants of its grand past still present in looming baroque churches, wide plazas and cobblestone streets.
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Parque do Flamengo
Officially called Parque Brigadeiro Eduardo Gomes, Parque do Flamengo was the result of a landfill project that leveled the São Antônio hill in 1965, and now spreads all the way from downtown Rio through Glória, Catete and Flamengo, and on around to Botafogo. The 1.2 million sq meters of land reclaimed from the sea now stages every manner of Carioca outdoor activity. Cyclists and rollerbladers glide along the myriad paths, while the many soccer fields and sports courts are framed against the sea. On Sundays and holidays, the avenues through the park are closed (from 7am to 6pm).
Designed by famous Brazilian landscaper Burle Marx (who also landscaped Brasília), the park…
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Igreja de NS de Candelária
The construction of the original church to Our Lady of Candelária (dating from the late 16th century), on the present site, was credited to a ship’s captain who had almost been shipwrecked at sea. Upon his safe return he vowed to build a church to her. A later design led to its present-day grandeur, which rated Igreja de NS de Candelária among the largest and wealthiest churches of imperial Brazil. The interior is a spectacular combination of baroque and Renaissance styles. The ceiling above the nave features six large panels that depict the romanticized version of the sea captain’s journey and the subsequent origin of the church. The cupola, fabricated entirely from …
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Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas
One of the city's most picturesque spots, Lagoa has 7.2km of cycling/walking path around the lake. Bikes are available for hire near Parque Brigadeiro Faria Lima. There's also a helipad on the shoreline for those who want a bird's eye of the cidade maravilhosa. It may sound cheesy, but hiring a paddle boat is another way to enjoy the lake, especially when the Christmas tree is lit up across the water.
Boat rental is available on the lake's east side in Parque do Cantagalo, December through early January. For those who prefer caipirinhas to plastic swan boats, the kiosks in Parque dos Patins offer lakeside dining al fresco, often accompanied by live forró (traditional mus…
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Palácio Tiradentes
In the looming building overlooking the bay, the stately Tiradentes Palace today houses the seat of the legislative assembly. Exhibits on the 1st and 2nd floors relate the events that took place there between 1926 and the present. One of its darkest hours was when the National Assembly was shut down in 1937 under the Vargas dictatorship; it later served as his Department of Press and Propaganda. Most information is in Portuguese, though you can listen to a rundown of history in English at the interactive machine in the foyer. The statue in front, incidentally, is not a likeness of Russian mystic Rasputin, but rather that of martyr Tiradentes, who led the drive toward Braz…
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Ponta Do Arpoador
This rocky point juts out into the water and serves as one of Rio’s best places for watching the sunset. Throughout the day, you’ll spot fishermen casting off the rock, couples stealing a few kisses and photographers snapping that iconic stretch of Ipanema beach stretching off toward the towering peaks of Dois Irmãos. You’ll also see large flocks of surfers jockeying for position offshore. Around the western edge of the rock is the tiny Praia do Diabo (Devil’s Beach), a fine place to take in the views – but swim with caution. A very rustic gym is built into the rocks (think barbells with concrete weights and many chin-up bars).
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Museu do Bonde
The tiny one-room Tram Museum at the depot close to Largo do Guimarães offers a history of Rio’s tramways since 1865 – when the trams were pulled by donkeys. A few photographs, trip-recorders and conductor uniforms are just about the only objects documenting their legacy. Uplifting music plays overhead. The term bonde, incidentally, means just that: bond, indicating the way in which the first electric trams were financed – through public bonds. While you’re at the museum, wander down to the old workshop that houses the trams. Cineastes may remember the depot from the opening sequence of the film Orfeu Negro.
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Museu de Arte Moderna
At the north end of Parque do Flamengo, the Museu de Arte Moderna is immediately recognizable by the striking postmodern edifice designed by Alfonso Eduardo Reidy. The landscaping by Burle Marx is no less impressive. After a devastating fire in 1978 that consumed 90% of its collection, the museum is finally back on its feet and now houses 11,000 permanent works, including pieces by Brazilian artists Bruno Giorgi, Emiliano Di Cavalcanti and Maria Martins. You’ll find excellent photography and design exhibits, and the cinema hosts regular film festivals throughout the year.
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Bonde
The bonde that travels up to Santa Teresa from Centro is the last of the historic streetcars that once crisscrossed the city. Its clatter through the cobbled streets has made it the icon for bohemian Santa Teresa. The tram travels over the Arcos do Lapa and up Rua Joaquim Murtinho before reaching Largo do Guimarães. From there, one line (Paula Matos) takes a northwestern route, terminating at Largo das Neves. The longer route (Dois Irmãos) continues from Largo do Guimarães uphill and southward before terminating near the water reservoir at Dois Irmãos.
reviewed
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Mosteiro de São Bento
A fine colonial gem, the Mosteiro de São Bento was built between 1617 and 1641 on Morro de São Bento, one of the four hills that once marked colonial Rio. The simple facade hides a baroque interior richly decorated in gold. Among its historic treasures are wood carvings designed by Frei Domingos da Conceição and paintings by José Oliveira Rosa. On Sunday, the High Mass at 10am includes a choir of Benedictine monks singing Gregorian chants. To reach the monastery from Rua Dom Gerardo, go to number 40 and take the elevator to the 5th floor.
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Parque Guinle
This handsomely landscaped park is a pleasant refuge from busy Rua das Laranjeiras outside its sphinx-guarded gates. There’s a small wooded area, a tiny lake with ducks and always a few Cariocas enjoying a lounge on the grass. Designed by French landscape architect Gochet (with later flourishes by Roberto Burle Marx), the park is also home to the dramatic Palácio das Laranjeiras, the state governor’s residence, and currently closed to visitors. The palace overlooks the west side of the park and is partially hidden by the thicket of trees.
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Praça XV (Quinze) de Novembro
The first residents on this historic site were Carmelite fathers who built a convent here in 1590. It later came under the property of the Portuguese crown and became Largo do Paço, which surrounded the royal palace (Paço Imperial). The square was later renamed Praça XV (Quinze) de Novembro after Brazil declared itself a republic on November 15, 1822. A number of historic events took place here: the coronation of Brazil’s two Emperors (Pedro I and Pedro II), the abolition of slavery and the overthrow (deposition) of Emperor Dom Pedro II in 1889.
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Museu Chácara do Céu
The former mansion of art patron and industrialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya is now the Museu Chácara do Céu, with a small collection of modern art. In addition to works by Portinari, Di Cavalcanti, and a good assortment of European and Asian works, the museum displays furniture and Brazilian maps dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. Beautiful gardens surround the museum, with fine views of Centro and Baía de Guanabara. Sadly, four of the museum’s most valuable paintings were stolen during an armed robbery in 2006.
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Museu Histórico do Exército e Forte de Copacabana
Built in 1914, on the promontory of the former Our Lady of Copacabana chapel, the Forte de Copacabana (Copacabana Fort) was one of Rio’s premier defenses against attack. You can still see its original features, including walls up to 12m thick, defended by Krupp cannons. The several floors of exhibits in the fort’s museum, tracing the early days of the Portuguese colony to the mid-19th century, aren’t the most tastefully presented, but the view alone warrants a visit. There’s a lovely café overlooking Copacabana.
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