Restaurants in Brazil
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A
Sinatra
Excellent fusion cuisine is the name of the game at this fancy eatery with black tablecloths and white lights twined around palm trunks. The Argentine chef, whose other culinary ventures include stints in Ibiza, Spain and Arraial d’Ajuda, cooks up fabulous specials such as risotto de camarão, manga e capim limão (tiger prawns risotto with mango and lemongrass).
reviewed
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Giramundo
Overcooked picanha (choice beef cuts) shouldn’t stop you from having a good time at this wildly popular beach kiosk, a Swiss-Brazilian endeavor, notable not only for the usual suspects, but also for the out-of-place grilled bratwurst, currywurst, kalbsbratwurst and Eisenbahn microbrews – none of which are often seen north of Santa Catarina.
reviewed
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B
Cosanostra Caffé
The dim lighting and unmarked entrance lend a certain Goodfellas ambience, and Frank Sinatra happened to be playing when we visited, but the beefy guys at the bar are mostly businesspeople on a break. Lunch specials include a main dish, side dish and soda for R$10, or order larger plates off the menu. The bar is open late, and there’s live music after 11pm.
reviewed
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C
Casa D’Italia
The rodízio (smorgasbord) concept works perfectly well for Italian food: instead of skewers of meat, waiters rotate by with dishes of lasagna, pastas with red or cream sauces, and of course pizza of all sorts, including chocolate and banana pizzas for dessert. It’s all-you-can-eat, but don’t get greedy: you pay extra if you leave anything on your plate.
reviewed
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Rosmarinus Officinalis
Beautifully set amid gardens, with smoke pouring out its chimney in chilly weather and candlelight reflecting off the windows at night, this restaurant looks like a fairy-tale house, but the food is strictly gourmet. The menu of locally influenced Italian dishes, such as risotto with grilled trout, has earned it a reputation as one of Mauá’s finest restaurants.
reviewed
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D
Fratelli
On a quiet street in Leblon, Fratelli’s large glass windows frame families and young couples enjoying a fine neighborhood restaurant. It’s the food, however, that ought to be on display: creamy linguini with langosta (lobster), polenta with porcini and Brie and plump tortellini all pair nicely with Fratelli’s decent wine selection.
reviewed
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E
Hideaway
Aptly named, Hideaway is secreted inside a converted 19th-century house. The all-glass ceiling (with lush greenery framing the outside) and minimalist design give a contemporary polish to the place. The pizzas, made inside a wood-burning oven, are decent, and the small lounge adjoining the restaurant hosts live jazz and Música Popular Brasileira (MPB) groups.
reviewed
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Farol da Ilha
Back to its original name after a brief spell as ‘La Oca,’ this waterfront restaurant has always had first-rate fish meals to match its outstanding river and island vistas. Most dishes serve two people, and are priced accordingly. Single dishes aren’t much of a value; solo travelers can order cheaper chicken dishes or just come here for drinks and the view.
reviewed
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F
Carlota
This award-winning restaurant has an intimate ambience that sits just right with the delicate cuisine. The small but ever-changing menu features elements from traditional Portuguese cooking (like the cod recipes) as well as Eastern influences (salmon sashimi, shiitake dishes). Regardless, inventive chef Carla Pernambuco always creates some memorable meals.
reviewed
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G
Azul Marinho
Below the Arpoador Inn, Azul Marinho serves an assortment of tasty seafood dishes, and the outdoor tables facing the ocean have the best beachside setting you'll find in the Zona Sul (there's no traffic between you and the sea, only sand). Try one of the moquecas (seafood stew), the octopus vinaigrette salad or the famous whole fish baked in salt.
reviewed
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H
Capricciosa
Inside this trendy high-end pizzeria, you’ll find tasty thin-crust pizzas made with fresh ingredients. The price is high, but the chefs – working in an open kitchen next to the brick oven – are at least generous with the toppings. Among many flavorful combinations is the signature capricciosa (ham, bacon, an egg, artichoke hearts and mushrooms).
reviewed
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I
Café Do Rodrigues
Inside the charming Centro branch of the Livraria da Travessa bookstore, Café do Rodrigues is a suitable setting for philosophical conversation when the world – or the humidity – has worn you down. Browse for books, then peruse your finds over a torta do palmito (heart-of-palm quiche), a hearty soup or a flavorful salad.
reviewed
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J
Tia Maria
It's hard not to stop at the sight of the chairs here, whose shaggy, multicolored upholstering makes them look like pom-poms, or the Fry Guys from the '70s McDonald's commercials. And once you stop, you may as well pop in for a piece of pie, which comes in a dozen or so varieties. Better yet, come here for dessert after Italian dinner across the street.
reviewed
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AFA Bistrô D’amazônia
The name has changed but this unassuming bistro remains one of the best per-kilo lunch spots you’ll find in the Amazonia. The city’s professional classes pack in for fresh and original salad combinations, tender meat and fish dishes, and irresistible desserts. Sundays feature frutas do mar (seafood) and the price jumps to a hefty R$40 per kilo.
reviewed
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Restaurante Mar & Sol
Serves simple but tasty seafood dishes, including a tasty crab moqueca (Bahian fish stew cooked in a clay pot with dendê oil, coconut milk and spicy peppers). Wash it down with an ice-cold cerveja. For something lighter (snacks R$3 to R$10), go next door to Café Colméia ([tel] 3426 8029). Follow the path to Farol das Conchas.
reviewed
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K
Peixada Ver O Rio
You can indeed 'see the river' from this open-air eatery, as the name promises. Fish is the specialty, served in a dozen different ways. Most dishes are designed for two people, but you can request a half-portion. Even so, prices are a bit steep - budget travelers might consider eating somewhere cheaper and migrating here for the beer and the breeze.
reviewed
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L
O Passo
In a lovely 18th-century building, this restaurant has intimate candlelit rooms with marbled walls; outside, the relaxed terrace overlooking the Casa de Contos is ideal for an after-dinner drink. Everything’s superb – pizza, pasta, salads and the wine list! On Tuesday nights, don’t miss the rodizio de pizzas (all-you-can-eat pizza, R$21.90).
reviewed
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M
Santa Clara Café Orgânico
Santa Clara is one of the city’s hot ‘ Pontos de Encontros, ’ which loosely translated means where hot people go to mingle. It’s a wonderful little café serving organic Joe, sandwiches, wraps, waffles (despite its 3pm opening time), cheesecake, tapioca and a plethora of fancier coffee drinks. It’s located on the upper level of Dragão do Mar.
reviewed
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N
Eclipse
One of the only 24-hour restaurants in town, Eclipse is equal parts juice bar, pizzeria and traditional Brazilian restaurant, with outdoor seating, a stand-up counter and a sit-down air-conditioned restaurant for escaping the heat. It can be a great (and lively!) destination when hunger strikes in the madrugada (the wee hours of the night).
reviewed
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O
O Paraíba
Indigenous art lines the walls at this upscale tapiocaria where quesadilla-like dishes are made from tapioca, a specialty of the Northeast. Try the signature dish, queijo coahlo (cured white cheese) and carne de sol (salted and grilled meat with beans, rice and vegetables) served with homemade butter from the countryside.
reviewed
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P
Skina dos Sucos
Stake out some counter space at this busy eatery, where you can order snacks and sandwiches to go along with sucos (fresh juices) made from Amazonian fruits, including guaraná (a tropical berry thought to have numerous medicinal properties), cupuaçú (sweet cousin of the cacao fruit) and graviola (custard apple).
reviewed
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Delicias Caseiras
Budget travelers rejoice: for just R$6, you can pile as much grub on your plate as humanly and physically possible. Alas, some of the specialty items are doled out by hairnetted ladies behind the warming trays, but portions are still generous and they often include some less-common options like tongue and chicken patties. Air-con is intermittent.
reviewed
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Garagem
‘Holy Shit’ views, good tunes and excellent food to boot, Garagem got its start as a famous bar (and is still good for that) but during the day, it’s the best spot in Pipa proper to drop down for a beach lunch (excellent Argentine picanha, fresh fish) and a Bohemia to wash it down. During full moons, there’s live music at night as well.
reviewed
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Chocolate
A lovely spot with a charismatic chef-owner (Pat Gâteau), cutely nicknamed after her home-run dessert, one of Brazil’s best petite gâteaux. But you’ll first want to tuck into the excellent risottos here, namely the Amazonian special, with tucupi (a sauce extracted from wild manioc root) and jambú (an Amazonian herb) .
reviewed
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Q
Térèze
Under the command of French chef Damien Montecer, Térèze provides a memorable dining experience. All the elements are there, from the inventive menu (char-grilled octopus with couscous salad, black risotto with seafood, macadamia-crusted veal tenderloin), to the suggested wine pairings and the superb views over the city. Even the design is green – tables and artwork are made from reclaimed lumber and recycled materials.
reviewed