Sights in Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans National Park
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Nata Bird Sanctuary
The 230-sq-km community-run Nata Bird Sanctuary was proposed in 1988 by the Nata Conservation Committee and established four years later with the help of several local and international nongovernmental organisations (NGOs). Local people voluntarily relocated 3500 cattle and established a network of tracks throughout the northeastern end of Sowa Pan.
Although the sanctuary protects antelopes, zebras, jackals, foxes, monkeys and squirrels, the principal draw is the large population of water birds. Over 165 species of birds have been recorded here, including pied kingfishers, carmine and blue-cheeked bee-eaters, martial and black-breasted eagles, and secretary and kori busta…
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Kubu Island
Along the southwestern edge of Sowa Pan is Kubu Island, a ghostly, baobab-laden rock, which is entirely surrounded by a sea of salt. In Setswana, kubu means 'hippopotamus' (because there used to be lots here) and, as unlikely as it may seem given the current environment and climate, this desolate area may have been inhabited by people as recently as 500 years ago.
On one shore lies an ancient crescent-shaped stone wall of unknown origin, which has yielded numerous artefacts. The island is now protected as a national monument, with proceeds going to the local community. There is also a small camp site with pit toilets, though you will have to carry in your own water.
Acces…
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Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve
During years of average to low rainfall, the Boteti experiences one of southern Africa's most spectacular wildebeest and zebra migrations between May and October.
The 3900-sq-km Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve extends from the Boteti River in the west to the Ntwetwe Pan in the east. Although the Boteti River only flows after good rains, wildlife congregates along the river during the dry season when the flow is reduced to a series of shallow pools, as these are the only source of permanent water in the reserve.
Basic supplies are available at the Khumaga (Xhumaga) village shop.
The main entrance to the game reserve is 141km west of Nata and 164km east of Maun. Another gate …
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Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans National Park
Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans National Park is administered by the Department of Wildlife & National Parks (DWNP), so camping is only allowed at designated camp sites, which must be booked in advance at the DWNP office in Gaborone or Maun. You will not be permitted into either park without a camp-site reservation, unless you're on an organised tour.
West of Gweta, the main road between Nata and Maun slices through Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve and Nxai Pan National Park, which protect large tracts of salt pans, palm forests, grasslands and savannahs. Since both parks complement one another in enabling wildlife migrations, Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve and Nxai Pan National P…
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Nxai Pan National Park
The 2578-sq-km Nxai Pan National Park lies on the old Pandamatenga Trail, which once connected a series of bore holes and was used until the 1960s for overland cattle drives. The grassy expanse of the park is most interesting during the rains, when large animal herds migrate from the south and predators arrive to take advantage of the bounty.
The region is specked with umbrella acacias, and resembles the Serengeti in Tanzania (but without all the safari vehicles). The entrance to the park is at Makolwane Gate, which is about 140km east of Maun and 60km west of Gweta. The Park Headquarters is another 35.5km north along a terrible sandy track. A 4WD is required to get arou…
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Baines' Baobabs
In the south of the Nxai Pan National Park are the famous Baines' Baobabs, which were immortalised in paintings by the artist and adventurer Thomas Baines in 1862. Today, a comparison with Baines' paintings reveals that in almost 150 years, only one branch has broken off.
Baines, a self-taught naturalist, artist and cartographer, had originally been a member of David Livingstone's expedition up the Zambezi, but was mistakenly accused of theft by Livingstone's brother and forced to leave the party. Livingstone's brother later realised his mistake (but never publicly admitted it), yet Baines remained the subject of ridicule in Britain.
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Nata Delta
During the rainy season (November to May), huge flocks of water birds congregate at the Nata Delta, which is formed when the Nata River flows into the northern end of the Sowa Pan. When the rains are at their heaviest (December to February), the pan is covered with a thin film of water that reflects the sky and obliterates the horizon. Access is via a 4WD track from the village of Nata.
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Sowa Spit
The long, slender protrusion of Sowa Spit extends into the heart of Sowa Pan and is the nexus of Botswana's lucrative soda-ash industry. Although security measures prevent public access to the plant, private vehicles can proceed as far as Sowa village on the pan's edge. Views of the pan from the village are limited, though they're ideal if you're travelling through the area in a 4WD.
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Gweta
The dust-bowl town of Gweta serves as another gateway to the Makgadikgadi Pans, as well as an obligatory fuel stop if you're heading to either Kasane or Maun. The name of the village is derived from the croaking sound made by large bullfrogs, which, incredibly, bury themselves in the sand until the rains provide sufficient water for them to emerge and mate.
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Ntwetwe Pan
Although the Ntwetwe Pan was once fed by the Boteti River, it was left permanently dry following the construction of the Mopipi Dam, which provides water for the diamond mines in Orapa. Ironically, Ntwetwe is now famous for its extraordinary lunar landscape, particularly the rocky outcrops, dunes, islets, channels and spits found along the western shore.
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Gabatsadi Island
The enormous crescent-shaped dune known as Gabatsadi Island has an expansive view from the crest that has managed to attract the likes of Prince Charles. (He went there to capture the indescribably lonely scene in watercolour, but the paints ran because it was so hot!). The island lies just west of the Gweta-Orapa track, about 48km south of Gweta.
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Chapman's Baobab
About 11km further south of Green's Baobab is the turn-off to the far more impressive Chapman's Baobab, which has a circumference of 25m and was historically used as a navigation beacon. It may have also been used as an early post office by passing explorers, traders and travellers, many of whom left inscriptions on its trunk.
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Sowa Pan
Pan is mostly a single sheet of salt-encrusted mud stretching across the lowest basin in northeastern Botswana. Sowa means 'salt' in the language of the San, who once mined the pan to sell salt to the Bakalanga. Today, it is mined by the Sua Pan Soda Ash Company, which sells sodium carbonate for industrial manufacturing.
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Nata
The dust-bowl town of Nata serves as the gateway to the Makgadikgadi Pans, as well as an obligatory fuel stop if you're heading to either Kasane or Maun. Be aware that elephants graze alongside the highway in this region, so take care during the day and avoid driving at night.
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Green's Baobab
On the Gweta-Orapa track, 27km south of Gweta, is Green's Baobab, which was inscribed by the 19th-century hunters and traders Joseph Green and Hendrik Matthys van Zyl as well as other ruthless characters.
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