Restaurants in Bosnia & Hercegovina
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A
To Be or Not to Be
Somewhat similar in style to the Dveri, To Be or Not to Be offers grills, generous salads and tangy seafood dishes in its cosy dining room. We ended up with a whale of a fish and more veggies on one plate than we've ever seen in a Balkan restaurant. If you look at the signboard outside you'll notice that the words 'or not' have been crossed out; this alteration was made during the siege when the owners wanted to present a far more positive message.
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B
Dveri
A tiny restaurant-in-hiding, which could just pass as someone's kitchen laid out to receive family guests. Try one of their home-made brandies (quince, walnut?) while you watch the cook prepare your meal in surroundings hung with strings of garlic, chillies and corncobs.
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C
Restaurant Jež
A mood of intimacy is felt from the moment you walk into the warmly lit antiques arcade leading into this basement restaurant. Bring the love of your life for that 'heads together, rest of the world doesn't exist' meal. If solo, then fill those noneating moments checking the grandmother clocks on the wall - how many tell the correct time?
The cuisine is typical Bosnian tinged with international extras. Our waiter offered a surprise meal, which revealed itself as steak à la chef, served on a wooden platter surrounded by a dam of mash potato to retain the Camembert sauce.
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D
Tavola
A simple, elegant, old-fashioned restaurant where frequent customers are greeted like old friends. Voices here will tend to be non-Bosnian as it's popular with expats, who have the time and networks to discover the best a town has to offer. Parting guests have left messages written on muslin pieces, which have been framed, backlit and hung on the wall.
If you're on the lower level, you can see right into the kitchen and watch your meal as a work in progress. Superb pasta, especially the salmon, but memo to the chef: a little less salt please.
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E
Inat Kuća
The restaurant was once on the other side of the river, but when the authorities wanted to demolish this traditional Bosnian house to build the town hall the owner insisted it be reconstructed here - hence the name. Offerings range from snacks, a sticky baklava, a bowl of chips and beer to a full-blown grill. In warm weather the riverside terrace is the spot for a bit of afternoon relaxation and reading. The service is a bit casual, so keep them on their toes.
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F
Restaurant Taurus
In an old mill down below Oneščukova, the Taurus comes with ancient smoke-stained beams and a large log fire for winter; a roofed terrace looks out onto the river. Risotto is a good test of a restaurant's capabilities; too often it comes as a tasteless sludge but not here, where our tasty seafood dinner came in a 'shouldn't have had lunch' portion.
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G
Grill Centar
Cooking aromas lead you by the nose to this little noshing place full of happy customers. The local recommendation is ćevapčići with kajmak (salted cream turned to cheese) accompanied by a round lump of lepinon (bread).
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Šadran
Just before the western entrance to Stari Most this courtyard restaurant has trestle tables set under the spreading tentacles of a kiwi-fruit vine. Service is prompt and there's a good variety of meals to appease a meat, vegetarian or fish appetite.
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H
Restaurant Rondo
This place is right by the roundabout, hence its name. Snack on the zelzanica stagana (spinach pie), or revel in a San Pietro all Cartoccio (a fish fillet baked in foil with a wine sauce, mushrooms, shrimps and mussels).
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Plava Prizm
Got two hours for lunch? That's how long it takes the world to turn around you on this 15th-floor revolving restaurant, atop the gleaming glass Avaz Business centre. We recommend the mushroom stew that comes with a baked pastry top.
reviewed
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Taj Mahal
For those missing their spices, the dishes here range from the innocuous to a throat-searing application of chillies. There are plenty of vegetarian dishes plus lots of Sarajevo beer to extinguish any fire.
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I
Mash
Cool, suave place with sofas for a late-night or early-morning collapse, and bar stools for coffee- and snack-grabbers. Sandwiches, snacks and a few veggie dishes (eg fajitas) feature on the menu.
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J
Pekara Edin
An always-open bakery selling pizza slices, pastries and burek. The krompiruša (spicy potato burek) provides just the wake-up call for a sleepy palette.
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K
MM Restaurant
Buffet presentation makes this a visitor-friendly feeding station. The food's lip-smackingly good with some veg options, and there's a ham and eggs breakfast for around KM3.
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Planet
For an afternoon treat take the corner table by the window, devour your 'chosen with difficulty' cake, then sip your coffee and watch the world go by.
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L
Metropolis
A big restaurant with a large display of eat-me cakes that's popular with everyone who loves those delicious creamy things.
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M
Butik-Badem
Nibbles from this health-food shop include yummy chocolate-coated pistachios, fruit bars and nuts.
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N
Indoor Market
In a remarkable neoclassical building, it sells dairy products and meat.
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O
Outdoor Market
Near the cathedral, this market overflows with fruit and vegetables.
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P
Bosanska Kuća
Bosanska Kuća 'Come eat,' says the waiter in national costume, inviting you into a restaurant promoting Bosnian tradition in food and setting. This snappy joint makes choosing easier with its colour-picture menu - maybe a kebab, some grilled fish, or stuffed peppers or aubergines for vegetarians.
reviewed
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Q
Žjelo
Two branches on the same street says something about the popularity of this ćevabdžinica.
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