Bolivia

Getting around

Bolivia boasts an extensive transportation system which covers most parts of the country in varying degrees of comfort and ease. Despite the remoteness of many places in Bolivia, locals are creative in the ways they get from one place to another taking a variety of movilidades (anything that moves!) including buses, trucks and boats. Interruptions to travel plans are usually not caused by lack of transportation, but by protests in the form of road blockades, floods, damaged roads (especially in the lowlands during rainy season) and, in the Amazon, low river levels. In the major tourist destinations, regular bus transportation usually ensures efficient travel.

Bus & tram

Bus

Buses and their various iterations are the most popular form of Bolivian transportation. It’s relatively safe and cheap, if a bit uncomfortable or nerve-wracking at times. Long-distance bus lines in Bolivia are called flotas, large buses are known as buses and three-quarter (usually older) ones are called micros and minibuses are just that. If looking for a bus terminal, ask for la terminal terrestre or la terminal de buses.

Thankfully, the Bolivian road network is improving as more kilometers are paved. Modern coaches use the best roads, while older vehicles sometimes still ply minor secondary routes.

It’s safer and the views are better during the day. Drunken driving is illegal, but bus drivers have been known to sip the hard stuff on long nighttime hauls. There have been numerous reports of items disappearing from buses’ internal overhead compartments. Hold on tight to your day packs and bags if they are with you in the bus. Backpacks and bags are generally safe when stored in the baggage compartment. You will be given a baggage tag which you must show when reclaiming your bag.

Except on the most popular runs, most companies’ buses inexplicably depart at roughly the same time, regardless of the number of competitors. Between any two cities, you should have no trouble finding at least one daily bus. On the most popular routes you can choose between dozens of daily departures.

Classes & costs

The only choices you’ll have to make are on major, long-haul routes, where the better companies offer coche (or ‘bus’) cama (sleeper) service for around double the común or normal going rate. The VCR on the newest buses will be in better shape than the reclining seats, heaters may function and toilets (yes, toilets) may work. Whether you will actually be able to sleep is another matter.

Prices vary according to the different standards of buses – from the more luxurious bus cama service to the ancient Bluebird-style buses – and the length of trip – whether overnight or short day hop. An overnight trip from La Paz to Cochabamba costs between US$3.15 and US$7.50 and from La Paz to Potosí costs between US$7 and US$13.

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Car & motorcycle

The advantages of a private vehicle include schedule flexibility, access to remote areas and the chance to seize photo opportunities. More Bolivian roads are gradually being paved (most recently, that between La Paz and Potosí) but others are in varying stages of decay, so high-speed travel is impossible (unless, of course, you’re a Bolivian bus driver) and inadvisable. The typically narrow and winding mountain roads often meander along contours and rocky riverbeds.

The undaunted should prepare their expeditions carefully. Bear in mind that spare parts are a rare commodity outside cities. A high-clearance 4WD vehicle is essential for off-road travel. You’ll need a set of tools, spare tires, a puncture repair kit, extra gas and fluids, and as many spare parts as possible. For emergencies, carry camping equipment and plenty of rations.

Low-grade (85-octane) gasoline and diesel fuel are available at surtidores de gasolina (gas dispensers) – also known as bombas de gasolina (gas pumps) – in all cities and major towns. Gas costs around US$0.45 to US$0.50 per liter.

In lowland areas, where temperatures are hot and roads are scarce, motorbikes are popular for zipping around the plazas, as well as exploring areas not served by public transportation. They can be rented for around US$12 to US$15 per 24 hours from moto-taxi stands. Gringo-run agencies offering motorcycle tours through the rugged highland are popping up like mushrooms in the larger cities. Bear in mind that many travel insurance policies will not cover you for injuries arising from motorbike accidents, so check your policy carefully.

Private drivers

Hiring a driver can be a more comfortable and efficient alternative to being squished in a bus on bad roads for long periods. Alternatively, many people just want transportation to trailheads or base camps rather than a tour.

Examples of one-way transportation prices from La Paz with a chofer (private driver), regardless of the number of passengers (six to eight maximum), include the following: Refugio Huayna Potosí US$50; Estancia Una (for Illimani climb) US$120 to US$140; Curva (for the Cordillera Apolobamba trek) US$250 to US$350; Chuñavi or Lambate (for the Yunga Cruz trek) US$150; Sajama US$300; and Rurrenabaque US$300. Private Salar de Uyuni and Southwest Circuit tours cost from US$150 per day.

Several La Paz drivers are recommended for their value, and are listed below. Club Andino also have a recommended list of drivers, while another option is Minibuses Yungueña (221-3513), which contracts drivers and 2WD minibuses.

Carlos Aguilar (7152-5897) Bolivian Climbing Federation secretary; speaks some English and provides safe, informative and inexpensive jeep trips. He also works as a climbing guide and is especially popular with mountaineers.

Juan Carlos Mujiano Centellas (2-273-0382) Recommended by Club Andino; offers transportation in a 4WD or 14-seater minibus.

Oscar L Vera Coca (2-223-0453; 7156-1283) Speaks some English.

Romero Ancasi (2-283-1363; 7192-1318) Offers experienced driving in well-maintained Toyota Landcruisers.

Rental

Few travelers in Bolivia rent self-driven vehicles. Only the most reputable agencies service vehicles regularly, and insurance bought from rental agencies may cover only accidental damage – breakdowns may be considered the renter’s problem.

You must be over 25 years, have a driver’s license from your home country, have a major credit card or cash deposit (typically around US$1000) and accident insurance. You’ll be charged a daily rate and a per-kilometer rate (some agencies allow a set number of free kilometers). They’ll also want you to leave your passport as a deposit.

Costs vary widely but the average daily rate for a small VW or Toyota starts at around US$36, plus an additional US$0.20 to US$0.40 per kilometer. For the least expensive 4WD, companies charge around US$40 per day plus US$0.40 to US$0.60 per kilometer. Weekly rates (with up to 1600km free) start around US$350 for a compact and US$600 for a 4WD pickup.

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Train

Since privatization in the mid-1990s, passenger rail services have been cut back. The western network operated by the Empresa Ferroviaria Andina (FCA; www.fca.com.bo) runs from Oruro to Villazón (on the Argentine border); a branch line runs southwest from Uyuni to Avaroa, (on the Chilean border).

In the east, there’s a line from Santa Cruz to the Brazilian frontier at Quijarro, where you cross to the Pantanal. An infrequently used service goes south from Santa Cruz to Yacuiba on the Argentine border.

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Departure tax

AASANA, the government agency responsible for airports and air traffic, charges a US$1 to US$2 domestic departure tax, which is payable at its desk after check-in. Some airports also levy a municipal tax of up to US$1.

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Travel documents

Reservations

To be safe, reserve bus tickets at least several hours in advance. For the lowest fare, purchase immediately after the driver starts the engine. Many buses depart in the afternoon or evening and arrive at their destination in the wee hours of the morning. Often you can crash on these buses until sunrise. On most major routes there are also daytime departures.

Reservations

Even in major towns along the routes, tickets can be reserved only on the day of departure. At smaller stations tickets may not be available until the train has arrived. Larger intermediate stations are allotted only a few seat reservations, and tickets go on sale quite literally whenever employees decide to open up. The best info is usually available from the jefe de la estación (stationmaster).

When buying tickets, make sure you have a passport for each person for whom you’re buying a ticket. This is a remnant from the days when ticket scalping was profitable.

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Tours

Many organized tours run out of La Paz or towns closest to the attractions that you wish to visit. Tours are a convenient way to visit a site when you are short on time or motivation; they are frequently the easiest way to visit remote areas. They can also be relatively cheap, depending on the number of people in your group and the mode of transportation.

There are scores of outfits offering trekking, mountain-climbing and rainforest-adventure packages around Bolivia. For climbing in the Cordilleras, operators offer customized expeditions. They can arrange anything from just a guide and transportation right up to equipment, porters and even a cook. Some also rent trekking equipment.

The following is a list of recommended agencies around the country.

Adventure Climbing & Trekking Company of South America (2-241-4197; Jaimes Freyre 2950, Sopocachi, La Paz) Carlos Escobar is a UIAGM/UIAA certified international mountain guide (who recently climbed Mount Everest) and runs serious climbing expeditions to Illampu, Jancohuma, Chearoco, Chacacomani, Huyana Potosí (including the East face) and others.

America Tours (2-237-4204; www.america-ecotours.com; No 9, Edificio Avenida, 16 de Julio 1490, La Paz) Warmly recommended English-speaking agency that organizes trips to anywhere in the country. Specializes in new routes and community-based ecotourism in such places as Parque Nacional Madidi, Parque Nacional Sajama, Rurrenabaque and the Salar de Uyuni.

Andean Summits (2-242-2106; www.andean­summits.com; Aranzaes 2974, Sopocachi, La Paz) Mountaineering and trekking all over Bolivia, plus adventure tours and archaeology trips.

Calacoto Tours (2-211-5592; www.calacototours-bolivia.com in Spanish; office 20, Galería Doryan, Sagárnaga 189, La Paz) Tours to Lake Titicaca and the islands (including Pariti), and horseback-riding trail rides in the Valle de las Animas and beyond.

Candelaria Tours (4-646-0289; www.candelariatours.com; Audiencia 1, Sucre) One of the most established and professional travel agencies in Sucre offering a variety of tours around Bolivia. Arranges travel and accommodations.

Colibri (2-242- 3246; www.colibri-adventures.com; 4th fl 4B, cnr Alberto Ostria & Juan Manuel Caceres San Miguel, La Paz) Offers comprehensive trekking, mountaineering, mountain biking, jungle trips and 4WD tours; rents gear.

Crillon Tours (2-233-7533; www.titicaca.com; Camacho 122, La Paz) An upmarket option offering a range of tours, including the hydrofoil services in Lake Titicaca.

Forest Tours (3-372-042; www.forestbolivia.com; Cuéllar 22, Santa Cruz) English-speaking, knowledgeable and extremely helpful, offering tours in the Santa Cruz region and elsewhere, including the Ché Trail and Parque Nacionales Amboró.

Fremen Tours (2-240-7995; www.andes-amazonia.com; No 13, Galeria Handal, cnr Santa Cruz & Socabaya, La Paz) Upmarket agency with offices in Cochabamba, Santa Cruz and Trinidad. Specializes in soft adventure trips in the Amazon and Chapare.

Inca Land Tours (2-231-3589; www.incalandtours.com; No 10, Sagárnaga 213, La Paz) Established Peruvian budget operation running tours out of Rurrenabaque and Coroico; it arranges its own charter flights to Rurre and will book tickets in advance with ­TAM –­ at a premium.

Magri Turismo (2-244-2727; www.magri-amexpress.com.bo; Capitan Ravelo 2101 at Montevideo) Established agency and American Express representative offering tours to the eastern, southern and La Paz regions of Bolivia including soft adventure and harder-core climbing activities.

Michael Blendinger Tours ((/fax 3-944-6227; www.discoveringbolivia.com; Bolívar s/n, Samaipata) Based in Samaipata, biologist Michael Blendinger specializes in tours to the southern Amboró and surrounding region. Also does birding tours. English and German spoken.

Neblina Forest (/fax 3-347-1166; www.neblina­forest.com; Paraguá 2560, Santa Cruz) Specializes in bird-watching and natural-history tours throughout Bolivia, especially to Noel Kempff Mercado, Amboró and Madidi National Parks, along with the Beni region and the Pantanal.

Travel Tracks (2-231-6934; www.travel-tracks.com; Sagárnaga 213, La Paz) This English-speaking agency is an excellent choice for guided hikes as well as customized trips around the country.

Turisbus (2-245-1341; www.travelperubolivia.com; Hotel Rosario, Illampu 702, La Paz) Upmarket agency specializing in Lake Titicaca tours.

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Water

Ferry

The only public ferry service in Bolivia operates between San Pedro and San Pablo, across the narrow Estrecho de Tiquina (Straits of Tiquina) on Lake Titicaca. To visit any of Lake Titicaca’s Bolivian islands, you can travel by launch or rowboat. To the Huyñaymarka islands in the lake’s southernmost extension, boats and tours are available in Huatajata. To visit Isla del Sol, you can take a tour, hire a launch or catch a scheduled service in Copacabana, or look for a lift in Yampupata or the villages on the way here. Cruises by motorboat or hydrofoil are provided by a couple of well-established tour companies.

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Air

Air travel in Bolivia is inexpensive and it’s the quickest and most reliable means of reaching out-of-the-way places. It’s also the only means of transportation that isn’t washed out during the wet season. Although weather-related disruptions definitely occur, planes eventually get through even during summer flooding in northern Bolivia.

Airlines in bolivia

Bolivia’s national carrier LAB (2-237-1024; www.labairlines.com.bo) and private carriers AeroSur (2-231-1333; www.aerosur.com), Amaszonas (www.amaszonas.com) and Aerocon (www.aerocon.info) connect the country’s major cities and remote corners. They all charge similar fares and allow 15kg of luggage, excluding 3kg of carry-on luggage. With LAB you must reconfirm your reservations 72 hours before the flight or your reservations may be canceled.

The military airline, Transportes Aéreos Militares (TAM; 212-1582/212-1585, TAM airport 2-284-1884; Montes 738), operates domestic flights in smaller planes that fly closer to the landscape. Prices are as much as 40% lower than other airlines, but schedules can change without notice and reservations can only be made in the town of departure. They are strict with the 15kg baggage limit; each additional kilo costs around US$0.50, depending on the length of the flight.

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Bicycle

For cyclists who can cope with the challenges of cold winds, poor road conditions, high altitude and steep terrain, Bolivia is a paradise. Traffic isn’t a serious problem, but intimidating buses and camiones (flatbed trucks) may leave cyclists lost in clouds of dust or embedded in mud. However, finding supplies may prove difficult, so cyclists in remote areas must carry ample food and water. Given these challenges, many prefer to leave the work to a tour company. Mountain-biking hubs and hotspots include La Paz, Sorata and the Yungas.

Bolivia has its fair share of inexpensive bikes – mostly supermarket beaters from China. However, quality new wheels are few and far between. Your best bet for purchasing a used, touring-worthy stead is through agencies in La Paz. Try Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking (2-231-3849; www.gravitybolivia.com; 16 de Julio 1490, Edificio Avenida, No 10) for spare parts and help with repairs. Bringing your own bicycle into the country is generally hassle-free.

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