Things to do in Tarija
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Café Mokka
A stylish place with a pavement terrace overlooking the square, they serve not-amazing coffee, decent cocktails and good, light grub. Tables are decorated with weird arrangements of peanuts and coffee beans.
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Churrasquería El Rodeo
With Argentina so close, it’s not surprising that big slabs of red meat are popular in Tarija, and that is all that you get here. This sparkling and classy choice also has a salad bar.
reviewed
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Casa Vieja
The best patero (foot-stamped) wine, is at Casa Vieja. Its atmospheric Bodega Casa Vieja (admission free; photo permission around US$1) is in the village of Concepción, about 30km from Tarija. You can have a reasonably priced lunch in its lovely restaurant decorated with adobe arches, large fish heads and hanging plant pots, and hosting traditional Chaco dances during the Carnaval. Check at the Tarija office for updates on opening times.
There are buses to Concepción every two or three hours from Plaza Sucre in Tarija (US$0.30; 30 minutes).
reviewed
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Basílica de San Francisco
The Basílica de San Francisco was founded in 1606 and is now a national monument. The 16th-century convent library and archives, which may conjure up images from The Name of the Rose, can be used only by researchers who have been granted permission by the Franciscan order. Inside the basilica, the free Museo Franciscano Frey Francisco Miguel Mari displays ecumenical paintings, sculptures and artifacts.
reviewed
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Gilded House
The Gilded House dates back to 1930, when it was one of several properties owned by the wealthy Tarija landowner Moisés Navajas (often described as Bolivia’s Teddy Roosevelt) and his wife, Esperanza Morales. The building appears imposing and impressive on tourist brochures, but in reality the exterior is sloppily splashed with gold and silver paint, and the roof is topped with a row of liberating angels.
reviewed
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Mercado Central
At the northeast corner of the market, street vendors sell snacks and pastries unavailable in other parts of Bolivia, including delicious crêpe-like panqueques. Breakfast is served out the back, other cheap meals are upstairs, and you’ll find fresh juices are in the produce section. Don’t miss the huge bakery and sweets section off Bolívar.
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La Floresta
A great place for pitchers of fresh lemonade and all-you-can-eat buffets of pork, chicken and salads, served in a lovely, leafy garden with a large swimming pool. Local families stream in on weekends when the atmosphere is particularly lively. It’s a bit out of town, so get a taxi here – the staff will call one for the return journey.
reviewed
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Chingo’s
Juicy steaks are the name of the game at Chingo’s, specializing in hefty Argentine beef parrillada (barbecued or grilled) with all the standard trimmings – rice, salad and potatoes. Pizzas and chicken dishes are also available for a similar price. Delivery to hotels is for a nominal fee.
reviewed
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Taberna Gattopardo
This welcoming European-run tavern is one of Tarija’s most popular hangouts. There are good espressos and cappuccinos in the morning, well-prepared salads, burgers and ceviche (Peruvian citrus-marinated fish dish) at midday, and chicken fillets and fondue bourguignon in the evening.
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Iglesia de San Roque
Architecturally, Tarija's most unusual church and major landmark is the bright, white 1887 Iglesia de San Roque . Dedicated to the city's patron saint, the church sits on the hill at the end of General Bernardo Trigo, lording over town. Its balcony once served as a lookout post.
reviewed
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Mirador Loma de San Juan
This park area above the tree-covered slopes of San Juan hill provides a grand city view and is a favorite with smooching students. Climb uphill to the end of Calle Bolívar, then turn right behind the hill and follow the footpath up the slope that faces away from the city.
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Café Campero
Dive into the fabulous range of breads, cakes and pastries, including French-style baguettes, chocolate cake and cuñapes (cassava and cheese rolls). If you prefer to have yours to go, pop into the Palacio de las Masas next door, which is open in the morning.
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Iglesia de San Juan
Iglesia de San Juan, was constructed in 1632. Here the Spanish signed their surrender to the liberation army after the Batalla de la Tablada. The garden serves as a mirador (lookout) of Tarija and its dramatic backdrop of brown mountains.
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Café Teatro Caretas
A bohemian, all-ages cultural center, presenting live music, theater, chess lessons and art exhibitions. There is something happening most nights and the cover is minimal. Drinks and snacks are served and late-night burger stands wait outside.
reviewed
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La Vaca Loca
Sister cow to the Samaipata mad cow ('Vaca Loca' means 'Mad Cow'), this is a more stylish version with cow-skin chairs, pleasant low lighting and good food. Go for the juicy chicken sandwiches and superb salads, and finish with an ice cream.
reviewed
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Bodega La Concepción
Bodega La Concepción, the region's best, exports and promotes its vintages as the 'world's highest wines'. La Concepción is worth a visit for oenophiles. It's 25km south of Tarija, just before the village of Concepción.
reviewed
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Viva Tours
For wine tours and adventurous eco-trips to Tarija’s hinterlands – including four nearby national reserves – it’s tough to beat Viva Tours, which charges between B$80 and B$150 per person for half or full-day tours.
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Chifa Hong Kong
Adjacent to a busy Chinese store, this place offers good food, cheap cocktails, huge lunches and an extensive Chinese menu, and its all priced the same to make it easier to calculate your bill! Delivery to hotels is also available.
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Castillo de Moisés Navajas
The exterior of this oddly prominent and deteriorating private mansion is worth a look for its garish extravagance. It's still inhabited but is occasionally open for informal tours. Check at the tourist office.
reviewed
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Archaeology & Paleontology Museum
The free university-run Archaeology & Paleontology Museum provides a good overview of the prehistoric creatures and the early peoples that once inhabited the Tarija area.
reviewed
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Kohlberg
The oldest winery is the ubiquitous Kohlberg . Both Kohlberg and Casa Real are in Santa Ana, 17km southeast of Tarija via an indirect route that passes the Campos de Solana bodega.
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Asociación Tarijeña de Ajedrez
At the Asociación Tarijeña de Ajedrez, you can play for free if you respect club rules: no smoking and quiet, please.
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Coliseo Deportivo
Entertaining basketball, futsal (five-a-side soccer) and volleyball games are played at the Coliseo Deportivo.
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El Tropero
This rustic spot is another good choice for hungry carnivores. Steak is all that's for dinner with a salad bar to complement it.
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Club Social Tarija
Old-fashioned almuerzos are the favorite of the loyal crowd of monthly meal-plan subscribers.
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