Things to do in Oruro
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Nayjama
This appealing three-floor choice serves high-quality traditional Oruro food with a dash of innovation. The servings are huge so ask for half a portion of anything you order. Lamb is the specialty, as is cabeza, the sheep’s head served with salad and dehydrated potatoes. The English menu is slightly more expensive so ask for the Spanish one.
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Bravo’s Pizza
Bright, with big windows overlooking the square and a light ambience, this 2nd-floor eatery has 20 pizza varieties, including a spicy one with dried llama meat, plus hamburgers, sandwiches, burritos and breakfasts (B$20).
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Cathedral
Just east of the main plaza, the cathedral has fine stained-glass above the altar. The adjacent tower was constructed by the Jesuits as part of a church before Oruro was founded. When the Jesuits were expelled, it was designated as the cathedral of the Oruro bishopric.
In 1994, the original baroque entrance was moved and reconstructed at the Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón (Virgin of the Grotto), which presents a grand city view. It was here that 16th-century miners began worshipping the Virgen de Candelaria, the patron of Oruro miners. The present church, which is a 19th-century reconstruction of the 1781 original, figures prominently in Oruro's Carnaval as the site w…
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Calacala
The atmospheric Calacala makes a worthwhile trip from Oruro. The site consists of a series of rock paintings of llamas and humans in red and orange tones, presumably dating to the first millennium BC. It’s located under an overhang 2.5km beyond the village of Calacala, which is 26km east of Oruro. Stop in the village to locate the guard who has the keys and collects the fee; she can often be found in the small cafe marked by a rusted Pepsi sign. The site itself is a 30-minute walk past the village, near the old brewery. The views from the site of the exceptionally beautiful valley, which provides some of Oruro’s water, are spectacular. There’s no public transport unless i…
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Museum Casa Arte Taller Cardozo Velasquez
A family of seven artists – Gonzalo (sculptor), his wife María (potter) and their five daughters – open their whimsical little house and art studio to visitors. The tour includes a peek into their workshop, the many nooks and crannies with artsy bric-a-brac and a leafy patio with Gonzalo’s fascinating sculptures (check out the one in the middle, devoted to Pachamama). If you’re lucky, you may even get a tea made with medicinal herbs from their courtyard garden. On Sunday mornings, the family goes out to the streets to paint with children. Every first Friday of the month, they hold a k’oa ceremony, an Andean ritual that pays respect to Pachamama, which you are w…
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Mina San José
There are numerous mines in the Oruro area, most of which are abandoned or operated by cooperativos (small groups of miners who purchase temporary rights). One of the most important is Mina San José, which has been in operation for over 450 years. Now run by six cooperatives, they have opened a part of the mine to tourists. The tour lasts about three hours and costs B$50. It’s available in Spanish only; English tours are available through Charlie Tours for B$250, with transport and guide. To get there take a yellow micro (marked ‘D’ or ‘San José’) or the light-blue mini (B$5) from the northwest corner of Plaza 10 de Febrero.
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Termas de Obrajes Hot Springs
The Termas de Obrajes hot springs, 25km northeast of town, are a popular destination. It’s a well-run complex, with a pool and, around the edge, private bathrooms, which you reserve for half an hour and gradually fill up with the magnesium-rich water. You can buy (but not rent) towels here; make sure you have a swimming costume to enter the public pool. There’s an unspectacular restaurant adjacent to a modest hotel. From the corner of Caro and Av 6 de Agosto, catch an Obrajes micro (B$5, 30 minutes) from 7:30am to 5pm daily, which also passes the grungier Capachos hot springs,10km east of town. The last micro to Oruro departs at 4pm.
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Museo Sacro, Folklórico, Arqueológico y Minero
The Museo Sacro, Folklórico, Arqueológico y Minero is an excellent double museum attached to the Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón. Access is by guided tour only, which descends from the church down to an old mining tunnel with various tools from both the colonial and modern mining eras as well as representations of the devilish El Tío, spirit of the underground. The tour then goes upstairs to the other part of the museum, which has a variety of exhibits, from Wankarani-period stone llama heads to Diablada costumes. Guides are knowledgeable but you should be aware that they don’t speak English; however, some exhibits have bilingual explanations.
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Museo Antropológico Eduardo López Rivas
At the south end of town adjacent to the zoo, the Museo Antropológico Eduardo López Rivas is an anthropological and archaeological museum well worth a visit. The fascinating hodgepodge of exhibits includes mastodons, Carnaval costumes, stone-carved llama heads, mummies from the chullpares (funerary towers) that dot the region and skulls exhibiting the horrific cranial deformations once practiced on children. Take any micro (minibus) marked ‘Sud’ from the northwest corner of Plaza 10 de Febrero or opposite the train station, and get off just beyond the old tin-foundry compound.
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Complejo Metalúrgico Vinto
The around US$12 million Complejo Metalúrgico Vinto tin smelter was constructed in the early 1970s during the presidency of General Hugo Banzer Suárez. By the time it was put into operation, the Bolivian tin industry was already experiencing a steady decline, but it still processes up to 20,000 tons of ore annually.
Vinto is 8km east of Oruro. It's wise to phone in advance for permission to tour the operation. To get here, take micros marked 'Vinto ENAF' from the northwest corner of Plaza 10 de Febrero or Calle Bolívar.
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Museo Mineralógico
On the university campus south of town, the Museo Mineralógico houses a remarkable collection of more than 5200 minerals, precious stones, fossils and crystals from around the world, housed in wooden cabinets amid a series of stairways, exposed bricks and glass. Hop on minibus 102 or 2 or any micro marked ‘Sud’ or ‘Ciudad Universitaria’ from opposite the train station or Plaza 10 de Febrero.
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Museo Patiño
A university-administered cultural complex, the Museo Patiño is a former residence of tin baron Simón Patiño inside Casa de la Cultura. Exhibits include his furniture, personal bric-a-brac, fine toys and an ornate Art Nouveau stairway. Visiting exhibitions are featured in the downstairs lobby; the permanent collection is on the upper level. Entry is by guided tour only.
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Club de Montañismo Halcones
On weekends you can practice your skills with the friendly local climbing club, Club de Montañismo Halcones. There’s a range of routes with protection already in place. Try your hand at the challenging overhanging routes of the Angel sector, with the wonderful 7-rated route known as Sueño Lejano. For softer routes, try the Vieja Palestra sector.
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Faro de Conchupata
On November 17, 1851 Bolivia's red, gold and green flag was first raised at Faro de Conchupata: red for the courage of the Bolivian army, gold for the country's mineral wealth and green for its agricultural wealth. The spot is now marked by a platform and column topped by an enormous glass globe, illuminated at night. It provides a fine vista over the town.
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Las Retamas
One of Oruro’s best restaurants, this rustic spot in a cozy series of rooms with leafy views dishes out international meals and Bolivian specialties such as pacumutu (grilled beef chunks with veggies on a skewer) and silpancho (a thin schnitzel). Their selection of cakes is stellar.
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SUM
This upstairs café is opposite the tourist kiosk - you enter through a small salteñería (place specializing in salteñas - filled pastries). It's a peaceful spot more used to locals than tourists. What's on offer is very limited, but the service is friendly.
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Mercado Tradicional
Tucked away in the middle row of the Mercado Fermín López is the impressive Mercado Tradicional, which has more dried llama fetuses and flamingo wings than a voodoo master has pins. The affable vendors are more than happy to explain the usage of their wares.
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Las Delicias
Of several grilled-meat restaurants (churrasquerías), on this long street, this one is the best, with attentive service, sizzling table-side parrilladas (plates of mixed grilled meats), great almuerzos and a pleasant covered patio.
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Bar Huari
Not much seems to have changed in this traditional bar since the 1930s – locals still while away their evenings playing games and drinking beer in its series of high-ceilinged rooms. There are cheap almuerzos (B$10) and dinner mainstays.
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ARAO Artesanías Oruro
This place offers the best selection of high-quality, cooperatively produced handicrafts from four communities in the Oruro department, starting at B$70. The naturally dyed wool rugs and wall hangings, shoulder bags and ponchos are especially notable.
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Jordan's
There's a bit of everything here, with a clothes shop at the front, internet terminals upstairs and a wireless zone in the café. Best is the café, which serves pricy but excellent coffee and moist, tasty cakes in a stylish modern space.
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Artesanías
Llama and alpaca wool bags and clothing are sold at artesanías (shops selling locally handcrafted items) in the center and at the bus terminal, while the cheapest articles are found around the northeast corner of Mercado Campero.
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La Cabaña
This attractive bamboo-clad restaurant is an attentive, amiable place that serves Oruro's best steaks; they are all delicious. Go for the half portions unless you are seriously hungry. There are also omelettes, and pasta and fish dishes.
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Pub the Alpaca
A worthwhile option, this Swedish- and Bolivian-run pub is an intimate recently renovated spot set up in a front room. The good-mood feel is helped with good mixed drinks. If the door is locked, just knock or ring the bell.
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La Casona
Out-of-the-oven salteñas by day, quick sandwiches for lunch, and pizza and pasta at dinner keep this little place buzzing, especially at night when it gets really busy and hot, temperature-wise.
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