Niño Calvario & Horca del Inca

Lonely Planet review

The small but prominent hill Niño Calvario, southeast of town, is known variously as Little Calvary, Seroka, and by its original name, Kesanani. Its weirdly rugged rock formations merit an hour or so of exploration. From near the end of Calle Murillo, a signposted trail leads uphill to the Horca del Inca, an odd trilithic gate perched on the hillside.

This pre-Inca astronomical observatory is surrounded by pierced rocks that permit the sun's rays to pass through onto the lintel during the solstice on June 21, the Aymará New Year (if it doesn't, it is deemed to be a bad year for agriculture). During this time locals venture up before sunrise to celebrate. A lone guide or three may be at the site - it's worth hearing their explanation for a small donation.

Further down this road towards Kasani, lies Cerro Copacate, which features pre-Inca ruins and pictographs. The best known, but difficult to distinguish, is the Escudo de la Cultura Chiripa, a unique icon attributed to the ancient Chiripa culture.