Things to do in Cordillera Real & The Yungas
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Andean Epics Ride Company
Andean Epics Ride Company is a professional and enthusiastic set-up that offers a range of great mountain-bike trips for riders of all levels. These range from sedate half-day excursions to awesome multi-day adventures in the surrounding sierras. Owner Travis is always building downhill trails and plotting out new routes; one of his specialties is a five-day trip from Sorata to Rurrenabaque, starting with a two-day ride from Sorata to Mapiri via Consata (descending over 4000m from the starting point in the mountains), followed by a three-day boat journey with hikes as side-trips. The trip leaves every Monday from Sorata and costs B$1400. A minimum of four people is requir…
reviewed
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Apa-Apa Reserva Ecológica
An interesting day trip is to the Apa-Apa Reserva Ecológica, 8km from town. The private 500-hectare property has dry forest and one of the last remnants of primary cloud forest in the Yungas, and is rich in trees, orchids, butterflies and birds. You can also stay in the beautiful historic hacienda or camp at the well-equipped site above it. The reserve runs four-hour guided forest walks (B$50 per person with a B$200 minimum) and has a cafe serving meals and homemade ice cream. A taxi from Chulumani to the reserve costs B$15.
reviewed
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Pete’s Place
Serves big breakfasts that set you up for a day’s hiking, as well as a large selection of well-prepared and presented vegetarian fare, chicken curry and tasty steaks, all in a cheerful, comfortable setting. Owner Pete keeps an extensive library of maps and guidebooks and provides up-to-date trekking information. It’s well worth picking up a copy of his book Bolivia – Between a Rock and a Hard Place, a comprehensive synthesis of Bolivian political history.
reviewed
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Pizzeria Italia
The plaza is ringed by a number of inexpensive local places and pizzerias; all have ordinary menus, acceptable fare and a typically tropical sense of urgency and service. Local volunteers swear that Pizzeria Italia is the best of the mediocre bunch. If you're in a rush or on a strict budget, there are many food stalls around the mercado municipal and in the Comedor Popular to placate your growling stomach, but you'll need a bit of gastric stamina.
reviewed
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Café Illampu
Café Illampu is a 15-minute down-and-up walk from town, this lovely relaxing spot is en route to the San Pedro cave. Leave it for the return journey, for if you stop here on the way to the cave, you might not make it as the place is exceedingly tranquil (views, garden, llamas), and there’s good coffee, sandwiches on homemade bread and great cakes – the Swiss owner is a master baker.
reviewed
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Cerro Uchumachi Walk
For pretty views head uphill toward Hotel Esmeralda and on up to El Calvario, an easy 20-minute hike. At El Calvario the Stations of the Cross lead to a grassy knoll and chapel. There are two good trailheads from El Calvario. The one to the left leads to the cascadas, a trio of waterfalls 5km and two hours beyond the chapel. The trail to the right leads to Cerro Uchumachi, which affords terrific valley views.
reviewed
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Artesanías Arco Irís
On the south side of the plaza, the Artesanías Arco Irís offers a unique glimpse into Coroico daily life. During the high season, the market is frequented by itinerant craftspeople selling a wide range of artesanía (locally handcrafted items) including quality handmade jewelry. When you're done, grab a bag of yummy, nutty Yungas coffee from one of the surrounding cafes.
reviewed
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Siria León
Coroico is a relaxed place to learn Spanish. A recommended teacher is Siria León who charges B$35 an hour for private lessons. Her house is at the junction behind the soccer field. With Hotel Gloria Coroico down the road to your left, head through the tiny black gate to the right of the building that immediately faces you. The first door on your left is Siria’s.
reviewed
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Luna Llena
The small outdoor restaurant at the Hostal Sol y Luna is run with a motherly hand by doña María, and has a well-priced, tasty menu of Bolivian and European dishes including vegetarian options. An extraordinary treat if you have a group – or can muster one – is the Indonesian buffet (B$35 per person) for eight to 20 people, which must be booked a day in advance.
reviewed
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Back-Stube Konditorei
Back-Stube Konditorei is one of the best places to eat in town, this welcoming bakery-restaurant has excellent breakfasts, tempting cakes and pastries as well as pasta, vegetarian plates and memorable sauerbraten (marinated pot-roast beef) with spätzle (German dough noodles). There’s also a great terraced area, and a book exchange.
reviewed
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El Calvario
For pretty views, El Calvario is an easy 20-minute hike from town. Here, the Stations of the Cross lead to a grassy knoll and chapel. There are two good trailheads from El Calvario: the left leads to the cascadas, a trio of waterfalls a two-hour walk from the chapel; the right leads to Cerro Uchumachi (a five-hour round-trip), which affords terrific valley views.
reviewed
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Restaurant La Casa
While not quite what it was in its glory days, this home-style, candlelit restaurant is still a good choice for its friendly management and selection of fondue and à la carte meals. There are also small but tasty steaks, pasta dishes and a range of scrumptious pancakes. For the sweet of tooth, the sinful chocolate fondue is the way forward.
reviewed
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Altai Oasis Restaurant
The peaceful balcony restaurant at this loveable spot 15 minutes' walk from town serves coffee, drinks and a range of vegetarian dishes. There are also T-bone steaks and an Eastern European touch, with Polish borscht and tasty goulash. It's a great place to just sit with a drink too, with views over the valley and the tinkle of wind chimes.
reviewed
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Villa Bonita
This delightfully peaceful garden-cafe is 600m from town but feels a world away. The relaxed, personable owners offer delicious homemade ice creams and sorbets bursting with fresh fruit, tasty sundaes with unusual local liqueurs, and an eclectic range of vegetarian dishes. Meals are served outside where you can appreciate the valley views.
reviewed
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El Vagante
A good day's walk will take you to and from El Vagante, an area of natural stone swimming holes in the Río Santa Bárbara. Follow the road toward Coripata for about two hours, passing some Pre-Columbian terraces. Downstream from here is a series of swimming holes and waterfalls. The return route is uphill all the way!
reviewed
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Artesanías Kurmi
For local handiwork look for the friendly Artesanías Kurmi, in a rustic two-story white house. Here Wilma Velasco sells wonderful homemade and hand-dyed clothing, hats, dolls, bags and wall-hangings for excellent prices; also ask to try the homemade orange wine! There's no sign, but if you ring the bell, she'll open up.
reviewed
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Alcaldía Museum
The main square, Plaza General Enrique Peñaranda, is Sorata’s showcase. Upstairs in the town hall on the plaza is the free Alcaldía Museum, containing a number of artifacts from the Inca Marka site near Laguna Chillata, and an exhibit of old festival clothing.
reviewed
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Cross Country Coroico
The area around Coroico is great for mountain biking. Friendly Cross Country Coroico offers day trips to attractions in the region for all levels of rider from B$280 per person, including a guide and packed lunch. Readers have reported the trips as being good-natured if a little disorganized.
reviewed
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El Relincho
A recommended spot for horseback riding is El Relincho. Trips sometimes include a barbecue lunch. The owner, Reynaldo, also offers a two-day trip round Uchumachi for B$700 per person, all-inclusive. El Relincho is between Hotels Esmeralda and Sol y Luna, a 10-minute walk above town.
reviewed
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Madres de Clarisa Convent
The Madres de Clarisa Convent sells homemade brownies, orange cakes, creatively flavored biscuits, and wines. You’ll find it down the steps off the southwest corner of the plaza; ring the bell to get into the shop area.
reviewed
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Murcielaguitos
After midnight, with the resto-bars shut, it’s time for Murcielaguitos, in the Residencial 20 de Octubre, where students from the agricultural college join others to dance to loud Latin music and sing karaoke.
reviewed
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Gruta de San Pedro
A popular excursion is to the Gruta de San Pedro, 12km from town. The cave is approximately 400m deep with an enclosed lagoon, and though it is no longer possible to swim in it, it can be crossed with pedal boats.
reviewed
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Bamboo’s Café
A friendly place that offers good-value, picante (spicy) Mexican food (tacos, burritos and veggie refried beans). Later in the evening it’s also a cozy, sociable spot for a candlelit drink or two.
reviewed
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El Nido de Uchi
One of several cafés around the plaza, this stylish set-up, with tables in the form of coffee mills and displays of beans in various stages of processing, is run by the local coffee cooperative.
reviewed
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Taurus Pub
The best places for a drink in town are Bamboo's and the relaxed Taurus Pub, the name taken from a previous bar of that name, which has a guidebook library and occasional live music.
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