A taste of Marrakesh

Posted Monday, April 02, 2007, 11:12 PM by Lonely Planet

Sylvia Dubery speculates on secret treasures...

The early morning adhan in Marrakesh sets the pace for our first day. From every minaret across the city it calls, evocative and persistent. It is echoed by an eager rooster as if urging 'lets go!' For a city that clings so tenaciously to its ancient traditions the pace is fast and vibrant with everyday events a performance.

Last night we joined in, dining at the foodstalls in the Djemaa el-Fna. We were enticed by showmen with their one-liners at the ready. The chefs are part of the show with a stream of banter flowing as fast as the clouds of smoke that obscure the faces of fellow-diners.

Despite the inferno, there are no hell's kitchen style tantrums here - these men laugh and joke constantly as they sizzle, steam and stew. Less inviting were the roasted heads of sweet-faced calves which lined the table, so diners can eat, face to face with their victim.

The backdrop to all this is the sound of manic drumming, pipes of snake charmers and the aroma of perfumed spices.

Today we stopped for iced coffee and fresh fruit milkshakes at Venezia Ices whose style is more continental than kasbah. What it lacks in Morroccan ambience it more than compensates for by location. Here we watched horse drawn carriages, donkeys and mopeds navigate the frantic traffic at the foot of the Kantoubia minaret. At 70 metres it is visible from everywhere in the city, its golden orbs gleaming in the sun. And everywhere the sweet fragrance of thé à la menthe.

If the Marrakeshis are showmen at the foodstalls they are artists in the souks. A walk down the narrow passageways is a mesmerising feast of colour, shape and texture. At every turn a new delight greets you - conical towers of spices, ornate lanterns, floral spices and sparkling crystals and the pastel shades of handmade sweets.

Behind terracotta walls we catch through-the-key-hole glimpses of tiled courtyards and gardens. Marrakesh has many secret treasures to offer yet.

Labels: Africa, Bluelist Winners 2007

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