Saudi Arabia: on demand
Posted Sunday, April 15, 2007, 3:40 PM by Lonely Planet
'That's not good enough', I growled, narrowing my eyes at the official standing before me. 'I would like to visit the site now.'
To my enormous surprise, the official nodded obediently and scuttled off at once to attendto my request.
'You see, Ms Frances, I try to explain', Abdullah had volunteered early on in the trip. 'We Saudi men, we cannot say no to women when they ask help'.
Abdullah had encouraged me to take full advantage of this convenient dictate of Saudi etiquette; I did. Soon I had become quite brazen in my demands, asking for anything we required while Abdullah lurked smirking in the shadow of my abeyya.
'I want to visit the village of Habalah', I stated succinctly as soon as I had entered the offices of the Asir Tourism Board. Soon an entire cable car - lying dormant in the off-season - had wheezed into life, requiring a team of perhaps twenty to coordinate it.
Though women are denied such simple freedoms as driving a car, staying unaccompanied in hotels, entering Internet cafes or even eating in many restaurants, the treatment of women had in fact turned out to be very different from what I had imagined - or from what is popularly portrayed in the West. Most people appeared to accord women remarkable respect - as indeed I had always found throughout the countries of the Middle East.
Upon entering a shop or bank, an airport or railway station, I soon learnt to march to the front of a queue (as women everywhere were expected to do), watched contemptuously as men scattered before me, and waited impatiently while everything was done for me. If I hadn't been working such long hours, I would have become as large as a Saudi house (as many locals were; the country apparently has the highest incidence of diabetes in the world), so entirely indolent, spoilt and shamefully demanding I had become.
In the meantime, we continued to clock up the kilometres as we slowly wound our way around the Kingdom. From the beautiful mud-brick towers of Najran, we travelled via the spectacular rock carvings of Bir Hima and ancient tombs of Al-Faw, to the stunning, skyward, 20th-century towers of Riyadh, and onto the town of Al-Hofuf, home to one of the largest and most ancient oases in the world.
From the Eastern provinces, home to most of Saudi's oil and a seething mass of immigrant labour, we turned northwards to visit the country's greatest attraction. Known as 'Saudi Arabia's Petra', Madain Saleh numbers among the most magical and monumental sites of the Middle East - or it would if it were better known. Built by the Nabataeans in the first century BC, the rock-hewn tombs spread spectacularly over a desert landscape.
'The Al-Khuraibah tomb is closed...', the guard began.
As I drew myself up and narrowed my eyes, Abdullah took a step back and smiled.
- Frances Linzee Gordon
Frances Linzee Gordon has just completed an unprecedented research assignment in Saudi Arabia for Lonely Planet's forthcoming guide to the Arabian Peninsula. As the first person ever to be granted a visa to visit the Kingdom as an independent tourist, she kept a diary of her adventures. There is one post left in the series... tune in next week.
Labels: Frances Linzee Gordon in Saudi Arabia, Middle East
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7 Comments:
Having lived and worked in Saudi, it is great to see that it is finally opening up to tourism. It is a magical place, but the driving is terrible. The people are friendly, but always be mindful that this is a country dictated by a very strict religious culture of Islam. However, I loved the country and would love to return one day as a tourist. Well done!
Bravo! This article really sets the mood to explore Saudi Arabia's perspective (which is thoroughly misunderstood)
I think the rest of the world, rather than looking at "What" is different in any foreign shore, would be better off looking at "Why?" And the answers to "Why," are right there, in your article.
Saudi Arabia, why not? It's a whole new world!
Cheers!
Arun
Hi Shaun,
Thanks for the posting and the kind words. Glad you enjoyed your time in Saudi so much too.
You'll be pleased to hear that the government in conjuction with the Saudi police are finally doing something about driving in the Kingdom (Saudi Arabia used to rank among the top 5 most dangerous places in the world for driving apparently), and have now imposed fierce fines for speeding, jumping traffic lights, not wearing seat belts etc. It is now less dangerous, though still not for the faint-hearted.
Hope you manage to return there one day (perhaps see my answer to a question posted on Week One re how to obtain a "tourist visa").
Hi Arun,
Thanks for the posting.
Hear hear!
Well, if the driving is bad they can't blame women now can they? I would say with tongue-in-cheek that the driving would be bad because women aren't allowed to drive. Ask any insurance agent about who drives better!
I know a guy who lived in Saudi Arabia when he was young and his father worked there. He had told me about how women were allowed to go to the front of any queue without waiting and I hardly believed him. I was interested to read that you say the same thing. I believe that it is definitely a misunderstood place, that the whole Middle East is not understood by most in the West.
I am in awe of your trip, it sounds amazing.
I too have been totally blown away by my time in the middle east. as a strong willed, outspoken aussie gal i wasnt sure i was doing the right thing but i feel privledged to have had my misconceptions proven wrong and feel it my duty to share this with as many people as i can.
There are still many restrictions and rights issues for local women (and freedom of speech/belief) but its not at all what we westerners think.
Lets hope it continues to open up for all especially women (but not too much, no bus tour groups pls!). hopefully we can share our thoughts on equality and acceptance and we can gain their family closeness, hospitality and generosity.
I'm completely jealous and you have got me thinking about my next middle east trip.
cheers
tm
Hi my name is Ibrahim and I'm saudi and I'd like to say thank you for this amazing article about my country..
If you'd like to come again your are absolutely welcoming..
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