Things to do in Thimphu
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Trashi Chhoe Dzong
This large dzong, north of the city on the west bank of the Wang Chhu, manages not to impose on the valley or the city as a dominating, impenetrable fortress; rather, its splendid proportions and modest setting bestow a subtle, monastic magnificence.
The whitewashed outer structure is two storeys high with three-storey towers at the four corners projecting out over the walls and capped by red-and-gold, triple-tiered roofs. The outer walls are built of trimmed, neatly fitted granite blocks, unlike other dzongs, which were made of roughly dressed stones. Similarly, the dochey (courtyard) is paved with rectangular stone slabs. The dzong housed the original National Assembly …
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Weekend Market
The weekend market is crammed into a set of stalls on both banks of the Wang Chhu, just north of Changlimithang Stadium. Vendors from throughout the region arrive on Thursday and Friday and remain until Sunday night. It's an interesting place to visit, where village people jostle with well-heeled Thimphu residents for the best and cheapest vegetables and foodstuffs.
Depending on the season you may find potatoes, garlic, numerous varieties of chillies, red and white rice, cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuces, eggplants, asparagus, peas, several kinds of mushrooms and the young, curly fern fronds known as nakey. Fruits come from local orchards and from southern regions. You wil…
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Motithang Takin Preserve
A short distance up the road to the telecom tower is a trail leading to a large fenced area that was originally established as a mini-zoo. The king decided that such a facility was not in keeping with Bhutan's environmental and religious convictions, and it was disbanded some time ago.
The animals were released into the wild but the takins, Bhutan's national animal, were so tame that they wandered around the streets of Thimphu looking for food, and the only solution was to put them back into captivity. It's worthwhile taking the time to see these oddball mammals. The best time to see them is early morning when they gather near the fence to feed. It's a five-minute walk fr…
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Voluntary Artists Studio Thimphu
The impressive Voluntary Artists Studio Thimphu is hidden away on the top floor of a not-so-impressive building on Chang Lam. After negotiating several flights of betel-stained stairs you emerge at the study, which can be incredibly busy with after-school and weekend classes in drawing and painting for young artists. The goal of the studio (which accepts donations) is to use Bhutanese artistic values to create both traditional and contemporary works and to provide vocational training. There’s a small library and coffee shop where budding artists are encouraged to congregate. Art by the students and instructors is sold in the exhibition spaces in the studio and in the Art …
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Dechen Phodrang
At the end of Gaden Lam is Dechen Phodrang, the site of Thimphu's original Trashi Chhoe Dzong. Since 1971 it has housed the state monastic school, and a long procession of monks often travels between here and the dzong. A team of 15 teachers provides an eight-year course to more than 450 students. On any regular day the grounds hum with assorted recitations emanating from the windows.
The 12th-century paintings in the goemba's Guru Lhakhang have been restored and the upper floor features a large figure of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal as well as the goenkhang (chapel devoted to protective and terrifying deities). The central figure in the downstairs chapel is the Buddha Sakya…
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SAARC Building
The large traditional Bhutanese-style building across the river from Trashi Chhoe Dzong was built in the early 1990s to provide a venue for a meeting of the heads of state and government from the South Asia Association for Regional Co-operation (SAARC). That meeting was never held in Bhutan but plans are in the pipeline now that Bhutan boasts several hotels that meet the five-star needs of the SAARC officials.
The impressive structure now houses the planning and foreign ministries, and the National Assembly was relocated to this building in 1993. Long 'corridors of power' lead to the elaborately decorated National Assembly (held twice a year), while nearby is the Royal Ba…
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Telecom Tower
There's a wonderful view of Thimphu valley from the hillside below the telecommunications tower (2685m), high above the town at the end of a road that branches off from the approach to the youth centre. The complex also houses the broadcasting studios of Bhutan TV and is festooned with prayer flags. Don't photograph the telecommunications installation, but the valley is worth a few snaps particularly in the afternoon.
The area is known as Sangaygang and the access road attracts fitness fanatics after work and becomes a lover's lane after dark.
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National Textile Museum
Thimphu’s National Textile Museum is worth a visit to get to know the living national art of weaving. Exhibitions introduce the major weaving techniques, styles of local dress and textiles made by women and men. There is usually a small group of weavers working their looms inside the shop, which features work from the renowned weaving centres in Lhuentse Dzongkhag, the ancestral home of the royal family in northeastern Bhutan. Each item is labelled with the name of the weaver, at prices ranging from Nu 1500 to 25,000.
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Changangkha Lhakhang
Changangkha Lhakhang is an old fortresslike temple and monastic school perched on a ridge above Thimphu, southeast of Motithang. It was established in the 12th century on a site chosen by Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo, who came from Ralung in Tibet. The central statue is Chenresig in an 11-headed, thousand-armed manifestation. There are enormous prayer wheels to spin and even the prayer books in the temple are larger in size than usual Tibetan texts.
Don't leave without taking in the excellent view from the courtyard.
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Folk Heritage Museum
A restored three-storey, rammed-earth and timber building houses the Folk Heritage Museum. The house replicates a traditional farmhouse and is furnished as it would have been about a century ago. A guided tour of this almost-living museum is included in the admission and provides a glimpse into traditional Bhutanese life. The house design and many of the implements are also reminders of how many rural Bhutanese still live today. Bring a torch (flashlight) as some of the rooms are quite dimly lit.
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National Institute for Zorig Chusum
The National Institute for Zorig Chusum is commonly known as ‘the painting school’. It operates under the auspices of the National Technical Training Institute and offers four- to six-year courses that provide instruction in many of Bhutan’s traditional arts to students from throughout the country whose aptitude is more artistic than academic. The students follow a comprehensive course that starts with drawing and progresses through painting, woodcarving, embroidery and statue-making.
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Royal Thimphu Golf Club
The Royal Thimphu Golf Club has a nine-hole course beautifully situated above Trashi Chhoe Dzong. Indian Brigadier General TV Jaganathan, posted in Bhutan between 1968 and 1973, got permission from King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck to construct a few holes. The king later granted permission to expand the course to nine holes, recognising that it would provide an attractive green area adjacent to Trashi Chhoe Dzong. The course was formally inaugurated in 1971 as the Royal Thimphu Golf Club.
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General Stores
Thimphu has a plethora of general shops containing a hodgepodge selection such as light bulbs, stationery, farm implements, shampoo, computer disks and canned fish. To provide even more variety, shops may sell drinks by the glass and their sign may read 'shop cum bar' or the all-encompassing 'general cum bar shop'. Many items on sale are made in India, but there are lots of interesting Bhutanese products, especially textiles, baskets, jewellery, incense, books and religious items.
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National Memorial Chorten
This large Tibetan-style chorten was built in 1974 to honour the memory of the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. The whitewashed chorten is decorated with richly carved annexes facing the cardinal directions, and features elaborate mandalas, statues and a shrine dedicated to the popular third king. There are numerous religious paintings and complex tantric statues housed inside reflecting both peaceful and wrathful aspects of Buddhist deities.
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Royal Academy of Performing Arts
The home of the Royal Dance Troupe is the Royal Academy of Performing Arts. It provides formal training for masked dancers and also works to preserve Bhutan’s folk-dancing heritage. Unless there’s a practice session on, there’s little to see here. The professional dancers from this school perform several of the dances at the Thimphu tsechu. With advance notice they will provide a one-hour performance for visitors.
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Changlimithang Stadium & Archery Ground
The national stadium occupies the site of the 1885 battle that helped establish the political supremacy of Ugyen Wangchuck, Bhutan's first king. It is now the site of the national archery ground, a large football stadium and parade ground, basketball, tennis and squash courts, as well as the headquarters of the Bhutan Olympic committee. It's always worth checking to see what event is taking place when you are in town.
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Bhutan Archery Shop
Catering to the large community of Bhutanese archers, Bhutan Archery Shop specialises in American-made Hoyt brand bows that range in price from US$600 to US$1100. Arrows are the steel-tipped Easton brand, which sell for Nu 280 to 500. It’s a relatively expensive sport. The traditional bamboo bows are usually homemade and the bamboo arrows can be picked up at the weekend market.
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National Institute of Traditional Medicine
Established in 1978, the National Institute of Traditional Medicine prepares and dispenses traditional herbal and other medicines. There is an impressive laboratory and production facility that manufactures quality products. All kinds of pills, tablets, ointments and medicinal teas from here are distributed to regional health-care units around the country.
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Swiss Bakery
On a hill above the southern traffic circle, this was Bhutan’s first attempt at a fast-food joint. It was opened in 1970 by one of Bhutan’s first expatriates and despite its well-worn appearance it’s a much-loved institution with expats and locals. It serves great cheese omelettes, plastic-wrapped sandwiches and hamburgers, and a small selection of ‘homemade’ cakes.
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Zangto Pelri Lhakhang
This private chapel, built in the 1990s by Dasho Aku Tongmi, a musician who composed Bhutan's national anthem, is south of the weekend market. It's beside the older Yigja Dungkhar Lhakhang and is a replica of Guru Rinpoche's celestial abode. It is Bhutan's tallest lhakhang and houses many large statues, including a 4m-high image of Guru Rinpoche.
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Archery
Tournaments are scheduled on many weekends at the Changlimithang Archery Ground. Whether it's the traditional bamboo or the high-tech carbon fibre bows, the skill, antics and camaraderie are always entertaining. For dates of events check the papers. Archers practise at the target field at the south end of Changlimithang Stadium on most mornings.
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Mila Restaurant
Mila Restaurant features singers and a Dzongkha comedian most nights. There is a largely local audience and the performers, both amateur and professional, sing traditional Bhutanese songs. When there are professional acts expect a Nu 50 cover charge. After 8pm members of the audience can request songs at Nu 100 each.
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Drubthob Goemba
When you drive down the road from the Telecom Tower, you will find yourself on Gaden Lam, the road that runs high above the golf course. There are some great views of the town, and of Trashi Chhoe Dzong, and above you can see Drubthob Goemba, which now houses the Zilukha nunnery.
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Seasons Restaurant
This deservedly popular restaurant specialises in pizzas – excellent veg and non-veg varieties – and pasta. There’s also a balcony overlooking the bustling Hong Kong Market where you can enjoy a Red Panda wheat beer. And from December to March ask about the yummy yak roast.
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Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre
In the industrial estate at the south end of Thimphu, the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre produces hand-woven textiles on site and has a selection of cloth and ready-made garments for sale. This is one of the few places where you can watch weavers at work.
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