Things to do in Eastern Bhutan
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Trashigang Dzong
The dzong is on a high promontory that overlooks the confluence of the Drangme Chhu and the Gamri Chhu. It was built in 1667 by Mingyur Tenpa, Bhutan's third desi. The entire eastern region was governed from this dzong from the late 17th century until the beginning of the 20th century.
This dzong is unusual in that both the administrative and monastic bodies face onto a single dochey (courtyard). As always, the gorikha (porch) has paintings of the Four Guardian Kings.
Inside the Kunrey Lhakhang is a statue of the deity Gasin-re or Yama, the wrathful aspect of Chenresig. He is a protector of the faith, the god of death and the king of law, and the one that weighs up the goo…
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Kuenphen Hotel
The eastern side of the pass is much rockier; the road switchbacks down through a fir forest past a road sign that says ‘Life is a journey, complete it’. At about 3000m, 20km from the pass, the route emerges from the trees and enters the pastures of the Sengor valley. The settlement at Sengor has a few houses near the road, although the main part of the village, about 20 houses, is in the centre of the valley. If you’re carrying a picnic lunch and have not already eaten it, this is an excellent place to do so – there is no good place to stop for the next two hours. A sign in Dzongkha adorns the rustic Kuenphen Hotel where you can get a simple local-style meal. A l…
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Institute
This red-roofed institute was opened in June 1997 to provide opportunities in vocational training for those who do not continue in the system of higher education. The school strives to produce technically proficient craftspeople, while providing them with a basic educational foundation. Six of the Zorig Chusum (13 arts and crafts) are studied here, including thangka painting, sculpture, metalwork and woodcarving. You can visit the school, watch the 96 students at work and take photographs, though the selection of crafts for sale was disappointing during our recent visit. The students are on holiday from December to March and for two weeks in July.
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Rural Handicrafts Sales Centre
The Rural Handicrafts Sales Centre is a showroom for Khaling’s National Handloom Development Project, so is the place to pick up woven kiras, table runners and scarves, particularly if you can’t make it to the weaving centre in Khaling. Kiras aren’t cheap (Nu 4000 to 16,000) but bear in mind that an elaborate piece can take up to six months to weave.
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Choden Restaurant
The road continues its descent past fencelike prayer flags (the Bhutanese equivalent of road safety barriers) and through fields of corn and mustard, past the road-crew camp at Ningala, finally reaching the substantial village of Yadi (1480m). The Choden Restaurant here is a good place to break for a cup of tea and a look at the village lhakhang just across the road.
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Karmapa Restaurant and Bar
The garden of the Druk Deothjung Hotel is a favourite place to savour a cold beer. If you prefer something more Bhutanese in flavour, try the Karmapa Restaurant and Bar but drink quickly, because the entire town starts to close at 20:00.
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Pema Bakery
Next-door to the Druk Deothjung Hotel, this bakery serves bread and pastries, as well as a good range of imported goodies from Pringles to Coffee Mate.
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TT Restaurant
For a quick meal of rice, ema datse (chillies with cheese) and meat try this busy place, downstairs in the back of the Hotel Seldon.
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Druk Kuenden Guest House
The Druk Kuenden Guest House is the only place occasionally used by foreigners and it has a cosy lodge-style restaurant.
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Phuensom Bakery
The Phuensom Bakery is the place to load up for the following day’s picnic lunch. The entire town closes by 8pm.
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Hotel Menjong
The former Peljorling Hotel has spacious rooms but check the mattresses as these vary. There’s a decent lobby restaurant and bar.
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Handicrafts Shop
The small handicrafts shop at the Druk Deothjung Hotel is your last place to load up on souvenirs.
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