Things to do in Bumthang Dzongkhag
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Swiss Farm
The Swiss Farm is a development project established by Fritz Maurer, one of the first Swiss to work in Bhutan, and now run by his son. The project introduced brewing, farming machinery and fuel-efficient, smokeless wood stoves to the valley, as well as its first tourist guesthouse. The milk from large Jersey cattle is used in Bhutan's only commercial cheese factory and Bhutan's only native beer, Red Panda, is brewed here.
It's possible to visit the farm but your guide needs to arrange this in advance. Yoser Lham Shop is the main outlet for the Swiss Farm.
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Lamey Goemba
High on a hill sits Lamey Goemba, a large palace and monastery built in the 1800s as a residence for King Ugyen Wangchuck. Its design is in the palace style of the time, and is similar to Wangdichholing. It is now being used by the Integrated Forest Development Project and isn't formally open to visitors.
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Himalayan Pizza
At the south end of town, this place produces decent pizza as well as spaghetti and roesti. There is no menu and the owner speaks fluent Swiss-German but no English. Give your order an hour or more in advance if possible.
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Walking the Bumthang Valley
There are plenty of opportunities for day hikes in the Bumthang region, many involving visits to remote goembas. If you are on a tourist visa, take advantage of the vehicle at your disposal and arrange for the driver to pick you up at the end of a walk.
From Swiss Guest House to Pelseling Goemba is a favourite half-day walk, descending a different route to Thamshing Goemba in a total of about four hours' walking. The first half is all uphill (2½ hours) but is more varied than the hike to Tharpaling, through a mix of forest, meadows and villages, and you are rewarded with great views. The monastery is a great place for a packed lunch or flask of tea.
You can also walk from…
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Jakar Dzong
According to legend, when the lamas assembled in about 1549 to select a site for a monastery, a big white bird rose suddenly in the air and settled on a spur of a hill. This was interpreted as an important omen, and the hill was chosen as the site for a monastery and for Jakar Dzong, which roughly translates as 'castle of the white bird'. The Zhabdrung's great-grandfather, Ngagi Wangchuck, founded the monastery.
Jakar Dzong is in a picturesque location overlooking the Chokhor valley. The current structure was built in 1667 and has a circumference of more than 1500m. Its official name is Yuelay Namgyal Dzong, in honour of the victory over the troops of Tibetan ruler Phunts…
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Wangdichholing Dzong
The extensive palace of Wangdichholing was built in 1857 on the site of a battle camp of the penlop of Trongsa, Jigme Namgyal. It was the first palace in Bhutan that was not designed as a fortress. Namgyal's son, King Ugyen Wangchuck, the first King of Bhutan, chose it as his principal residence. The entire court moved from Wangdichholing to Kuenga Rabten each winter in a procession that took three days.
Wangdichholing was also for a time the home of the third king, before he moved the court to Punakha in 1952.
Wangdichholing was inherited by Ashi Choeki Wangchuck, an aunt of the present king, and the grand but rather neglected building is now used as a lobdra (school for …
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Museum
The family that owns Ogyen (or Ugyen) Chholing has turned the complex into a museum to preserve its legacy and provide a place for religious studies, research and solitude. The fascinating and well-captioned exhibits offer real insights into the lifestyle of a Bhutanese noble family. Highlights include a book of divination, a dakini dance costume made of bone and the revelation that petrified yak dung was one of the ingredients for Bhutanese gunpowder. Bring a torch. The complex is supported through the Ogyen Chholing Trust, which produces an excellent museum booklet (Nu 180).
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Namkhe Nyingpo Goemba
On the hill to the east of Jakar is the Namkhe Nyingpo Goemba. This Nyingma monastery was founded in the 1970s and has more than 300 monks in residence. The new prayer hall has massive statues of Guru Rinpoche, Chenresig and Sakyamuni.
If you're here between 16:30 and 18:00 check out the mass debating in the courtyard of the shedra, behind the main monastery, where monks reinforce their theological arguments with a stamp of the foot and a victorious slap. Don't disturb the debating with your photography.
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Yoser Lham Shop
The Yoser Lham Shop is the main outlet for the Swiss Farm. The shop sells the farm’s cheese, apple juice, peach brandy and apple or honey wine, as well as soft Gouda or hard Emmenthal cheese at Nu 250 per kg. This cheese is made for eating off the block, unlike the soft Bhutanese datse, which is used only in sauces. Honey is available in July and August.
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Handicrafts Emporium
Handicrafts Emporium is the showroom of a government-supported handicraft project and sells textiles, wooden bowls, tables runners and ghos. It’s 250m down a dirt road just past the Leki Guest House.
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Pema Tshomo Restaurant
There are plenty of small bars and local restaurants along Jakar’s main street, the best of which by a long way is Pema Tshomo Restaurant, with excellent Bhutanese dishes.
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Sonam Handicrafts
Sonam Handicrafts has pricey but nice pieces, including chang (barley beer) holders and ornate gau (amulets). Credit cards incur a surcharge of 5%.
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Udee Woodcarving Factory
Udee Woodcarving Factory employs a few woodcarvers who turn out traditional lama tables and painted carvings.
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