Things to do in Cotonou
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Le Costa Rica
Don't be scared off by the paintings at the entrance of those formidable Gauls, Asterix and Obelix - this French-owned joint is the coolest city-centre spot to sink a draft beer. Its pizza, steak and seafood dishes are also popular.
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Indiana
This Indian-run restaurant with garden seating, on the same street as Le Livingstone, does a delicious curry.
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Pili Pili
This slightly upmarket restaurant with a great ambience, behind Hôtel de l'Union, gets going from 20:00.
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Grand Marché du Dantokpa
The seemingly endless Grand Marché du Dantokpa is Cotonou's exhilarating, exhausting heart, bordered by the lagoon and Blvd St Michel. Everything under the sun can be purchased in its labyrinthine lanes, particularly if 'everything' happens to be a dodgy Lucky Dube CD or a pair of plastic sandals. More traditional fare, such as batiks and Fon jewellery, can be found in the market building. There is also a fetish market, located near the pirogues arriving from the lagoon.
Look out for the so-called 'Mama Benz', the haughty matriarchs of the market who are named after their favourite make of car.
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Le Repaire de Bacchus
This funky jazz bar also has a food menu, although it's shorter than the list of cocktails. With live jazz on Thursday, and music such as rumba and Côte d'Ivoire sounds on Friday and Saturday, this place is the hideout of choice for Cotonou's beatniks in berets. C'est cool.
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Maquis le Mandingue
Dishes such as fish of the season, in gombo (green vegetable), yassa (lemon, onion and mustard) and arachide sauces, are available in this popular but tranquil place with a garden and, on some nights, a harmonica player.
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Sandwich Ladies
The stalls in front of Maquis Le Lagon Grill on Blvd Steinmetz are perennial favourites, as are the Sandwich Ladies on the same street as Paradise nightclub. They allow you to create your own rolls with sausages, hot pepper sauce and loads more.
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Centre de Promotion de l'Artisinal
There are more beckoning hands than quality work in this large centre, but it's worth a look to get your cultural bearings. The boutiques sell woodcarvings, bronzes, batiks, leather goods, jewellery and appliqué banners.
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Chez Maman Bénin
This long-standing restaurant, behind Ciné le Bénin, has a large selection of West African dishes scooped from steaming pots. Upstairs is a more expensive air-con section with a TV showing big sports matches.
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Chez Clarisse
This small French restaurant, next to the US embassy, rates highly with readers. If you are feeling ambitious try the brochette des escargots (snails cooked on a skewer).
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Le Livingstone
Expect reassuring guitar riffs - at least when the rock-loving English owner has wrestled control of the hi-fi - and an expat crowd kicking back on the terrace. Hearty food too.
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Hai King
Not far from the airport, this popular place offers classic Chinese food, has snappy service, and a covered terrace overlooking the bustling Carrefour de Cadjéhoun.
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Maquis Le Lagon
Tasty but stingy portions of grilled chicken and chips and the like. You eat on the boulevard and get a front-row view of one of Cotonou's quieter thoroughfares.
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Restaurant Romantica
A limited menu but a mellow atmosphere and a great location next to Hôtel du Lac, in view of the zemi-johns hurling themselves over Pont Ancien.
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Le Téké
Benin Marina Hotel's Le Téké is fun on holidays and special occasions, any time there's a crowd; otherwise it's usually pretty dead.
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Restaurant l'Amitié
About 100m southwest of Hôtel Babo, this Senegalese lunchtime joint is one of the best places in town for a spot of fish and rice.
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Sonaec
Smart bookshop with the latest periodicals and some photography books on West Africa. Takes Visa and has maps of Cotonou and Togo.
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La Verdure
Tucked away, just west of Blvd Steinmetz, is this great little French seafood restaurant, which also has a bar with a pool table.
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Restaurant Mandarine
Turkish cakes and coffee in the morning, kebabs later on. Next to the Air France office on the southwestern edge of town.
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New York, New York
A glitzy hall of mirrors, frequented by some of the friendliest young ladies you'll encounter this side of Lomé.
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Hôtel du Port Boutique
Try the Hôtel du Port boutique, which is expensive but not as bad as the boutiques at the two top-end hotels.
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Faim Gourmet
Right across the road from the Novotel Orisha, this place serves delicious steaks and fish in a pleasant garden.
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Ciné Concorde
Good cinemas include Ciné Concorde, east of the new bridge. It shows Western and African films in French.
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American 24
In the centre, around Marché Ganhi, are a number of good supermarkets, including American 24.
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Vinawamon
For Fon language classes, call Vinawamon, also contactable via the Centre Culturel Français.
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