Things to do in Wallonia
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Brasserie Henry
Sociable brasserie that's become an institution among Namur's late eaters. Expect well-priced Belgian cuisine (vegetarian offerings, too), efficient service and spacious surroundings. It's child friendly and highly recommended.
reviewed
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Terra Nova
What remains of Namur's once-mighty Citadelle De Namur is slung high above the town on a rocky outcrop. Due to centuries of military expansion, it covers a huge area, though only towers, tunnels and much of the outer walls exist today. Visitors are free to wander around, and access is possible by car, bike, foot or minibus. The latter depart regularly from the tourist office and stop at Terra Nova.
To reach the citadel on foot, head up from the path on Pl St Hilaire; by car or bike follow the Rte Merveilleuse.
The best place to start is the new information point, Terra Nova. Oddly, it's not signposted as such - instead, look out for the sign 'Domaine fortifié'. Attractions…
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Trésor du Prieuré d'Oignies
Don't miss the Trésor du Prieuré d'Oignies. This one-room treasury is housed in a modern convent and is guarded by the Sisters of Our Lady. Ring the bell to be taken on a guided tour of the exquisite hoard of Gothic religious treasure (chalices, crosses and reliquaries), much of which was created by Brother Hugo d'Oignies. Like other famous artworks in Belgium, this collection has a colourful history.
During the French Revolution, when art treasures were being carted off to Paris, the monks in charge of the priory where Brother Hugo had lived took the artworks to a local farmer who walled them up in his house. When the last monk died in 1818, the treasure was given to t…
reviewed
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Musée d'Ansembourg
Two other museums are located close to the tourist office. Life as it was for some in the 18th century is depicted in the beautiful Musée d'Ansembourg. If you've just come from either the Musée de la Vie Wallonne or the Musée d'Art Réligieux et d'Art Mosan, you'll find this rich, Regency-styled mansion wonderfully uncluttered. Highlights include four original 17th-century Oudenaarde tapestries, pieces of antique delftware pottery and, upstairs, a six-faced clock.
The latter simultaneously shows the time in 50 countries and was invented in 1795 by one Hubert Sarton; it still works.
reviewed
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Musée de la Vie Wallonne
Close to the base of Montagne de Bueren is the Musée de la Vie Wallonne. Everything that's Walloon and old-fashioned is extolled here, from 12th-century Mosan metalwork to old wooden puppets and biscuit moulds (capable of making mega 5kg biscuits). There are reconstructed ateliers (workshops) from various trades including candlestick-making, basket-weaving and cooperage, as well as industries specifically associated with this region like glass-blowing that's still practised in Dinant.
It's all housed in a restored convent and makes a fascinating amble through the region's past.
reviewed
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Citadelle De Namur
What remains of Namur's once-mighty Citadelle De Namur is slung high above the town on a rocky outcrop. Due to centuries of military expansion, it covers a huge area, though only towers, tunnels and much of the outer walls exist today. Visitors are free to wander around, and access is possible by car, bike, foot or minibus. The latter depart regularly from the tourist office and stop at Terra Nova.
To reach the citadel on foot, head up from the path on Pl St Hilaire; by car or bike follow the Rte Merveilleuse.
reviewed
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Musée d'Art Réligieux et d'Art Mosan
Just steps away from the Museum of Walloon Life, is the excellent Musée d'Art Réligieux et d'Art Mosan. Spanning several floors, this museum is chock-full of well-preserved religious relics and paintings from the region. Start on the 3rd floor - home to glowing 16th-century statues of St Hubert, the region's patron saint of hunters - then weave your way down. On the 2nd floor, note the worn but nevertheless delicate wood carving of the Vierge (Virgin) that dates right back to 1070.
reviewed
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Simenon Route Audio tour
The tourist office has an English-language brochure, the Simenon Route, which describes a walking tour around Outremeuse, where writer Georges Simenon spent his youth. One of the most tangible references to Simenon is the brass plaque marking his nearby birthplace at Rue Léopold 24. Alternatively, a French-language Simenon Route Audio tour entitled 'Sur les Traces de Simenon' starts at the Maison du Tourisme.
reviewed
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Blaise Café/Nero Bianco
This duo doing modern Italian cuisine occupies an elite corner of Namur. Delvaux and Pierre Marcolini are also present, making it the spot to dine and shop. The ground-floor Blaise Café has a semiprivate courtyard, or you can take to the soft seats inside, watched by military mannequins. Upstairs, Nero Bianco's modern décor is accentuated by lamps that hang over the tables like great praying mantis.
reviewed
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Musée Félicien Rops
The Musée Félicien Rops is devoted to 19th-century Namur-born artist Félicien Rops (1833-98), who fondly illustrated erotic lifestyles and macabre scenes. Born a few streets away at Rue du Président 33 (the house is marked with a plaque), Rops worked mainly in Paris and Brussels. He was never embraced by the art worlds in either city and became highly critical of them.
reviewed
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Musée Tchantchès
Outremeuse's rakish resident, Tchantchès, appeared one day between two stones in 760, in Charlamagne's reign. This folklore hero and city mascot refused to drink his mother's milk at birth, instead screaming for pékèt (local gin). Despite age he's still working, starring in puppet theatres. The Musée Tchantchès displays his costumes and other paraphernalia.
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Église Collégiale St Barthélemy
Romanesque Église Collégiale St Barthélemy has one attraction - a brass baptismal font crafted between 1107 and 1118 and believed to be the work of either Lambert Patras, a coppersmith from Dinant, or Renier, a goldsmith from Huy. This enormous bowl rests on oxen and is adorned with five baptismal scenes (elaborately described in a video screened near the font).
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Office of Walloon Products
Walloon specialities such as pèkèt, chocolate, Liège syrup (dense jam made of apples or pears), Aubel cider, Trappist beers, salt meats and Herve cheese can be found at the Office of Walloon Products. And not only perishable goods; Walloon cookbooks, puppets and other souvenirs are available. What's not on the shelf for instant gratification you can order.
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Arms Museum
In this neo-classical mansion built in 1775, the Musée d'Armes (opened in 1885) houses a complete collection of armaments. With over 11,000 objects, it's the second largest of its kind in Europe. As well as getting the lowdown on Liège manufacturing history, we're treated to such highlights as 15th-century guns, a prehistoric axe and Napoleon memorabilia.
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Jacques Galler's Chocolate Factory
Jacques Galler's famous (and arguably Liège's most delicate and delicious) chocolate is in all the supermarkets but if you buy from his factory, it's cheaper. Starting out in his father's pastry shop in 1976, Galler's choc-shop took off when he started doing such tasty things with praline that he was given the title of 'Belgian Royal Warrant Holder' in 1994.
reviewed
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Montagne de Bueren
Don sturdy shoes and climb up the steep steps of Montagne de Bueren: you can rest up top with the superb panoramic view over Liège. In 1468, Franchimontese soldiers, under the patriot Bueren, climbed it to fight with Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, who'd occupied the city. The story has no happy ending: they failed, died, and Liège was plundered.
reviewed
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Former Palace of The Prince-Bishops
The Palais des Princes Evêques (former palace of prince-bishops) boasts a mishmash of styles: the facade is Italian Renaissance in parts and 18th-century French; the interior is Gothic. Seeing it for the first time, author Victor Hugo said, 'Nowhere have I seen a construction so remarkable, serious and gradiose at the same time.' Today, it's a courthouse.
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Musée de l'Art Wallon
The Musée de l'Art Wallon occupies a modern building that's accessed from Rue St Georges. It accommodates a very enjoyable collection of art by French-speaking Belgians, including 16th-century paintings by Henri Blès (1510-55). There are also works by some of the big guns including Constantin Meunier, Antoine Wiertz, René Magritte and Paul Delvaux.
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Saint Bartholomew Church
Crafted between 1107 and 1118, the Eglise Collégiale St Bathélemy is a collegiate church worth seeing for its graceful, brass baptismal font by Renier d'Huy. The font exhibits a large bowl resting on oxen, and is adorned with five naturalistic baptismal scenes. Inside, there's splendid art from the 17th and 18th centuries.
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Val Saint Lambert Abbey And Factory
Since 1826 Liège's Val Saint Lambert crystal has been famous for its purity. Today, its factory behind an ancient abbey offers demonstrations of glass-blowing and crystal engraving. Its museum is worth a visit too for its admirable collection of ancient crystal ware from all over the world. You can buy items from the showroom.
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La Maison du Pékèt
Directly behind the Hôtel de Ville, the bar La Maison du Pékèt keeps the beer and gin humming. They serve over 250 different pékèts in tall glasses: natural, with fruit or flambé. Or if you like there are shots of older, delicious-but-deadly varieties poured from pottery bottles. Happy punters indeed.
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Mamé Vi Cou
'Mamé Vi Cou' is Walloon-speak for 'an older woman of ample proportions'. But try not to binge here, though you may want to after tasting such local specialities as Rognon de Veau au Pékèt (veal in a jenever-based sauce). It's carnivorous food served in cavernous surroundings and it's all very very good.
reviewed
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La Batte
This Sunday morning market stretches along 1.5km (0.9mi) of river quays (the word 'batte' is old Walloon for 'quay'). Locals and tourists alike frequent here for their weekly food shop, bric-a-brac, exotic birds and fishes, farmyard animals, household goods, old books and other fantastic treasures. Haggling is allowed.
reviewed
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Petit Train
The best place to start at the Citadelle De Namur is the new information point, Terra Nova. Oddly, it's not signposted as such - instead, look out for the sign 'Domaine fortifié'. Attractions here include a Petit Train that shuttles around parts of the citadel and is well worth taking if you're without wheels.
reviewed
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Le Chapitre
Convivial and very cosy restaurant huddled in a corner beneath the tower of Cathédrale St Aubain. Specialises in regional cuisine, Breton crepes, and Belgian beers, all at very affordable prices. A blackboard lists the available brews (usually around 30), and the décor's charmingly rustic.
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