Other sights in Belgium
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Place Flagey
When Bruxellois say something is ‘hype’, they don’t mean overhyped but hipper-than-hip. Fitting that description is Place Flagey, a revitalised square near the Étangs d’Ixelles (Ixelles Ponds). The square’s focal point is the restored, ocean-liner-like Flagey building, constructed in 1938 as the Belgian broadcasting flagship. It now houses a concert venue, a cinema, an international restaurant, and a fabulous brasserie and bar. On the square, the Frites Flagey caravan serves up what many consider to be Brussels’ best fries. For amazing pizza, try Mamma Roma. A stroll south of the ponds will bring you to the leafy Bois de la Cambre.
reviewed
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Begijnhof
Surrounded by protective walls, these whitewashed cottages – clustered around a central garden carpeted with daffodils in springtime – have an air of tranquil purity. Established as homes for a Catholic order of single and widowed women, there were around 1500 of these begijnhoven (or beguinages) in Belgium in the early 20th century, but only 22 remain. Dating from the 13th century, this is one of the best preserved, and home today to Benedictine nuns. The tiny on-site ‘t Begijnhuisje museum gives you an insight into a typical cottage. After your visit, prolong the serenity with a stroll in the swan-filled Minnewater park nearby.
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Crowne Plaza Hotel
In the 1990s, when excavating for the foundations of the Crowne Plaza Hotel, workers literally hit a wall. This wall, it turned out, belonged to the 10th-century St-Donaas church (where Charles the Good, Count of Flanders is believed to have been assassinated in 1127), which later became a cathedral. Construction was allowed to proceed, provided that the remains were accessible to the public at no cost. It’s occasionally closed for hotel conferences, but otherwise you’re free to go down at any time (within reason) to find old maps, paintings, tombs and respite from the crowds above ground.
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St-Baafskathedraal & The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb
Flemish Primitive artist Jan Van Eyck’s richly detailed 20-panel altarpiece, De Aanbidding van het Lam Gods (The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb; 1432) is one of the earliest-known oil paintings in existence and the highlight of Ghent’s 22-altar, stained-glass-adorned cathedral. A rare depiction of God the Father can be seen on the altarpiece’s upper tier, while the lower tier features the eponymous lamb, symbolising Christ’s sacrifice. The altarpiece’s survival defies the odds.
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Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts
The country’s most prestigious museums, the Royal Museums of Fine Arts incorporate both the Musée d’Art Ancien (ancient art) and the Musée d’Art Moderne (modern art). Among the many highlights are the collections of Flemish Primitives, the Breugels (especially Pieter the Elder) and Rubens in the Musée d’Art Ancien; and works by surrealist Paul Delvaux and fauvist Rik Wouters in the subterranean Musée d’Art Moderne. Also here as of early 2009 is the brand-new Musée René Magritte.
reviewed
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Heilig-Bloedbasiliek
Bruges’ most treasured relic is a silver tabernacle containing the phial holding what’s said to be a few drops of Christ’s blood, hence the name of this ‘Basilica of the Holy Blood’. The tabernacle resides in the 12th-century basilica’s upper chapel, except on Ascension Day (approximately mid-May), when it’s paraded through the city during the Heilig-Bloedprocessie. You can see its jewel-encrusted reliquary used during the procession in the attached museum.
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Kantcentrum
In the residential St-Anna quarter, Bruges’ lace centre resides within a beautifully preserved almshouse. These terraced properties were built by merchant guilds for their members and by wealthy philanthropists for the poor and elderly. During the afternoon, you’re welcome to watch informal gatherings of women making traditional bobbin lace in the small backroom. A small collection of traditional lace is displayed at the on-site museum.
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Onze Lieve Vrouwekathedraal
The centrepiece of Antwerp’s historic centre is the Cathedral of Our Lady, Belgium’s largest and most ornate Gothic cathedral, whose lacy 123m-high stone spire is visible throughout the city. Built between 1352 and 1521, the interior is mostly baroque, and contains four of Rubens’ early canvases: Assumption, The Raising of the Cross, Resurrection and the most famous, The Descent from the Cross.
reviewed
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Stedelijk Museum voor Actuele Kunst (SMAK)
Many people visit Ghent for its Museum of Contemporary Art. It holds a highly regarded permanent collection of local works (including Karel Appel, Pierre Alechinsky and Panamarenko) and works of international celebrities (like Christo, Warhol and Hockney), though it’s been packing these away to devote its space to single major exhibits (such as Paul McCarthy’s blood-spattered installations), so it’s worth checking the programme.
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Nationaal Scheepvaartmuseum Steen
Inside Antwerp’s hulking fortress, the Steen (c 1200), you can explore the extensive collection of model ships, navigation instruments and other seafaring paraphernalia charting Belgium’s maritime history. Outside, original ships, including a 1920s barge often used as an exhibition venue, are moored in the ‘maritime park’. There’s wheelchair access to the Steen’s ground and 1st floors, and to the maritime park.
reviewed
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Rubenshuis
Entering Rubens’ painstakingly restored home through its inner courtyard, flanked by a baroque portico leading to Renaissance gardens that Rubens designed, creates the impression of stepping inside an Italian palazzo. Ten of his canvases are on display, including his definitive Self-portrait, and Adam and Eve in Paradise. Wheelchair access is possible to the garden and ground floor only.
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Red-Light District
Antwerp's Red-Light District is Belgium's largest, but it's small fry compared with neighbouring Amsterdam. It is based between St Paulusplaats and Verversrui and includes the appropriately named Oude Manstraat (Old Man St). Much of the quarter has a dog-eared feel, and the fanfare and crass consumerism that makes its counterpart in the Netherlands so famous is noticeably absent here.
reviewed
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Justitiepaleis
The city’s most arresting piece of architecture is its Justitiepaleis, which opened in ‘t Zuid in 2005. Locals quickly dubbed it the frietzak meaning ‘cone of fries’ thanks to its asymmetrical triangular glass roofline. It’s the work of British architect Richard Rogers, whose résumé includes equally controversial buildings like Paris’ Pompidou Centre.
reviewed
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Museum St Janshospitaal
Six masterpieces by Flemish Primitive painter Hans Memling are the main draw of this chapel-turned-museum within Bruges’ 12th-century St John’s Hospital. These include the Mystic Marriage of St Catherine triptych (1479), along with works by other artists of the era. Admission is good for the restored 17th-century apotheek (pharmacy) next door.
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St-Jacobskerk
The final stop on the Rubens trail (for Rubens himself) is his resting place, this Brabantine-Gothic church built between 1491 and 1656. Rubens painted Our Lady Surrounded by Saints specifically for his tomb – look closely and you’ll see it’s actually a family portrait, starring Rubens as St George and his wives and father.
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Museum aan de Stroom
Currently under construction, the centrepiece of the revamped 19th-century docklands, ‘t Eilandje, is the purpose-built Museum aan de Stroom just north of the city centre. Designed like a spiral tower and topped with a city-viewing platform, MAS is set to become the city’s defining history museum.
reviewed
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Museum Mayer Van Den Bergh
This jewel of a museum, inside a 1904 townhouse built in 16th-century style, contains an astonishing collection of over 3000 artworks amassed by collector Fritz Mayer Van Den Bergh. Unlike at larger museums, here works by Pieter Breugel the Elder, Flemish Primitives and late Gothic sculptures are arranged in small, intimate rooms.
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Museum voor Schone Kunsten
Fresh from an extensive renovation, the Museum of Fine Arts contains a varied collection of early and modern art including some Flemish Primitives and a couple of typically nightmarish works by Hieronymus Bosch including De Kruisdraging (Bearing of the Cross; c1480), depicting hideous characters mocking Christ.
reviewed
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Mode Museum (MoMu)
Antwerp’s fashion museum is housed inside the light-filled ModeNatie, along with the Flanders Fashion Institute and the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. The museum has no permanent collection; instead, up-to-the-minute exhibitions rotate on a biannual fashion-show cycle.
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St-Pauluskerk
Although consecrated in 1571, the ornate Baroque tower of this former Dominican cloister wasn’t added until 1679. As with all of Antwerp’s finest churches, though, the real appeal is inside, where you’ll find over 50 paintings (with works by Rubens and Van Dyck among them) and 200 elaborate sculptures.
reviewed
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Museum voor Vormgeving
Behind its 18th-century façade, Ghent’s Design Museum displays furnishings from the Renaissance to today in a striking modern space. Art Deco, Art Nouveau and retro (including some lurid ‘70s sofas) are all represented, and there are regular temporary exhibits (sometimes attracting an additional fee).
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Diamantmuseum
Before Antwerp became Belgium’s diamond capital, during the Middle Ages that mantle was held by Bruges, as you’ll discover at the city’s diamond museum. Every day at 12.15pm, you can catch a diamond-polishing demonstration in the atmospheric medieval basement, but you’ll need to arrive prior to noon.
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Groeningemuseum
Highlights of Bruges’ prized collection of art dating from the 14th to the 20th century are the Flemish Primitives (Room 2), including masterpieces by Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling. But also look out for works by Hieronymus Bosch (Room 1), and surrealists René Magritte and Paul Delvaux (Room 9).
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Diamondland
If diamonds are beyond your budget, you can watch them being cut and set during daily shows at 11am at this vast 1000-sq-metre diamond-showroom. If they’re not, this is one of the verified sales points of the Antwerp Diamond Jewellers Association, which oversees quality control.
reviewed
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Fotomuseum
The highlight of Antwerp’s state-of-the-art photographic museum is the multimedia room tying together photography with film and new technologies, giving you a glimpse into the future of the genre. The kitchen of the stunning black-and-white café (also closed Mondays) stays open until 10pm.
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