Onze Lieve Vrouwekathedraal

Lonely Planet review

The splendid Onze Lieve Vrouwekathedraal is the largest and finest Gothic cathedral in Belgium. It was 169 years in the making (1352-521) and the work of several architects (Appelmans, Domien and Keldermans). Its graceful 123m-high spire was a mighty landmark in early times and is still visible from kilometres around today.

The combined effects of a fire in the Middle Ages, the Iconoclastic Fury and plundering during the French occupation mean that little of what you see today inside the cathedral is original Gothic. Instead, baroque decorations - notably four early canvases by Rubens - adorn its light but imposing interior.

From the centre of the seven-aisled nave, look straight down to the high altar and Rubens' Assumption (1625). Although impossible to view up close, this painting's radiance is profound. To the left of the central crossing is The Raising of the Cross (1610), while the much smaller Resurrection (1612) hangs in a small chapel to the right of the high altar. The most celebrated of Rubens' four paintings is The Descent from the Cross (1612) immediately to the right of the central crossing. In this sensitive triptych, the deathly grey Christ is lowered by mourners while the Virgin reaches to touch her son.