Entertainment in Belgium
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't Velootje
Push through the heavy, unmarked door and take care not to trip over old bikes, or whack your head on the kero lamps cluttering this tiny, darkened garage as you take a seat at a low wooden picnic table. Lieven De Vos has turned his bicycle workshop into an informal bar, of sorts - ask for a beer and Lieven will bring out whatever he selects; his opening hours are 'whenever I feel like opening until it closes down' (try after 21:00).
There are plans to expand the pub to accommodate Lieven's collection of antique bikes; the expansion is scheduled to be complete in 2010, Het Velootje's 25-year anniversary.
To find the pub, walk north along Oudburg until you see a pile of…
reviewed
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Paeters Vaetje
On a bleak, rain-swept afternoon, there's no cosier spot to hole up than this snug bruin eetcafé ('brown eating café'), with glowing lamps illuminating its dark timber main room and upper-level mezzanine. Dishes are simple and inexpensive, and the beer selection choice.
reviewed
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Du Phare
Tucked into the remains of one of Bruges' original town gates, this off-the-beaten-track tavern serves up huge portions of couscous (and offers free bread, a rarity in Belgium). But Du Phare is best known for its live blues/jazz sessions - check the website for dates. Bus 4 stops out the front.
reviewed
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Vooruit
Everything from jazz to flamenco and book-readings to lectures takes place at this left-leaning performance, theatre, arts and cultural space. This impressive building, on the edge of the student quarter and close to the revamped Zuid district, was built in 1912 as a cultural centre for the Socialist Party and is worth a look in itself. Students congregate in the vast open-plan foyer bar for coffee or drinks; you can also get hot, wholesome meals for under around €8 between 12:30 and 15:00 and 18:00 to 20:30.
From the Korenmarkt it's about 1km, or take tram 41 to the stop 'Zuid' at Graaf van Vlaanderenplein.
reviewed
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Oud Arsenaal
This is one of the city's most congenial brown cafés, located on a pedestrianised street opposite the Grand Café Horta, in an area that has undergone massive regeneration in recent times. Popular with stallholders from the weekend Vogelmarkt and elderly locals during the week, it will be interesting to see if a pint-sized pub like this can hold out against the fashion nudge. Beers are among the cheapest in town and it's one of the few everyday pubs in Belgium to stock Westvleteren Trappist beer.
Catch it while it lasts.
reviewed
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De Roma
Antwerp's last old cinema and concert hall. It dates from 1928, and in the '70s was a popular venue for international artists - AC/DC, Lou Reed and James Brown all played here. Recently returned to life thanks to determined community effort, it now screens a varied line-up of off-beat films, Hollywood hits and kids' matinees. It's located east of Centraal Station in Borgerhout, a suburb that's chiefly home to Moroccan immigrants, and is rarely visited by tourists.
Tram 10 or 24 stops out the front.
reviewed
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Bar Tabac
Tiny bar that looks like it was plucked from an obscure village in rural France and plonked in 't Zuid. The odd thing is it has been going for years and is always packed. The décor's no more than a faded Michelin map and two old cigarette vending machines, plus a hotchpotch of old metal tables and chairs. In summer there's a terrace section for relaxing on crusty cinema seats; in winter everyone's jammed inside. 'Drunk Wednesdays' see beers going for around €1 and a DJ spinning tracks.
reviewed
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‘t Velootje
Push through the heavy, unmarked door and take care not to trip over old bikes, or whack your head on the kero lamps cluttering this tiny, darkened garage as you take a seat at a low wooden picnic table. Lieven De Vos has turned his bicycle workshop into an informal bar, of sorts – ask for a beer and Lieven will bring out whatever he selects; his opening hours are ‘whenever I feel like opening until it closes down’ (try after 9pm).
reviewed
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Red & Blue
Bills itself as 'the biggest gay disco in Benelux' (that is, Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg). Saturdays attract hot-blooded gay boys from far and wide, while regular Café de Love parties are for lesbians 'and their male soul mates'. The website also links to the club's mixed-crowd fixtures, such as Studio 54, and We Love Thursdays. On Friday night it draws a mixed crowd to the sounds of house, techno, rap and soul.
reviewed
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Zuiderterras
Modern landmark café-restaurant located at the southern end of the riverside promenade. Designed by the city's eminent contemporary architect, bOb (sic) Van Reeth, it mixes black, white and metal, and the enormous plate-glass windows provide superb river views. In summer a terrace fans out onto the walkway and it makes a superb place to while away an hour or two watching Antwerpenaars wandering the quayside.
reviewed
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Bourlaschouwburg
Beautiful old theatre with a rounded façade topped by statues of nine muses, composers and writers. Built in the 1830s for the city's French-speaking elite by architect Pierre Bourla, it eventually fell into disuse and was on the brink of demolition only a decade or so ago. It's now home to Het Toneelhuis theatre company. This company also commonly plays at a second venue, Studio Tokio on Museumstraat in 't Zuid.
reviewed
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Théâtre Royal de Toone
Eight generations of the Toone family have staged classic puppet productions in the Bruxellois dialect at this endearing marionette theatre, and it remains a highlight of any visit to Brussels. Shows are aimed at adults, but kids love them too. Discounted tickets for children and concession holders are available for €7, except on Friday and Saturday nights. The attached bar opens from noon to midnight.
reviewed
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Halles St-Géry
Occupying a huge, tiered former market hall on what was once an island, Halles St-Géry has an enormous obelisk at its centre marking ‘kilometre zero’ – the point from which all distances in Belgium are measured. Halles St-Géry now hosts art exhibitions by day, and the bar cranks of an evening when DJs spin funk, house and more. In summer, the party spills outdoors and goes on until the wee hours.
reviewed
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Casa Rosa
The ‘Pink House’ is an essential stop for gay and lesbian travellers to Ghent. The foyer bar attracts a mixed crowd, who can steer you to the latest hot spots. You’ll also find a gay and lesbian information office (generally open business hours on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday), and stands with city maps listing nightlife options and various other gay- and lesbian-friendly establishments.
reviewed
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Casa Rosa
The 'Pink House' is an essential stop for gay and lesbian travellers to Ghent. The foyer bar attracts a mixed crowd, who can steer you to the latest hotspots. You'll also find a gay and lesbian information office (generally open business hours on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday), and stands with city maps listing nightlife options and various other gay- and lesbian-friendly establishments.
reviewed
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Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant
Staff with a true passion for beer serve over 140 brews in Waterhuis' cosy interior and on its sprawling riverside terrace. Exclusive house brews include a knock-out amber Klokke Roeland (11% alcohol and often drunk as a nightcap; with a limit of three per person) and a blonde Gandavum Dry Hopping (7.5% and quite possibly the best beer this author's ever tasted). Unmissable.
reviewed
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L'estaminet
With its weighty dark-timber beams, low lighting, fabulous scratchy background jazz and convivial clatter, this neighbourhood café scarcely seems to have changed since it opened in 1900. It's primarily a drinking spot but also serves time-honoured dishes like spaghetti bolognaise with a baked cheese crust. Summer sees its loyal following flow onto the front terrace.
reviewed
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Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant
Staff with a passion for beer serve over 140 brews in Waterhuis’ cosy interior and on its sprawling riverside terrace. Exclusive house brews include a knockout amber Klokke Roeland (11% alcohol and often drunk as a nightcap; with a limit of three per person) and a blonde Gandavum Dry Hopping (7.5% and quite possibly the best beer this author’s ever tasted). Unmissable.
reviewed
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L’Estaminet
With its weighty dark-timber beams, low lighting, fabulous scratchy background jazz and convivial clatter, this neighbourhood café scarcely seems to have changed since it opened in 1900. It’s primarily a drinking spot but also serves time-honoured dishes like spaghetti bolognaise with a baked cheese crust. Summer sees its loyal following flow onto the front terrace.
reviewed
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Simon Says
Inside one of Ghent’s only Art Nouveau buildings, this creative little newcomer has gold futuristic flying objects hand-drawn on its turquoise walls by celebrated contemporary Antwerp artist, Panamarenko. Great for light organic lunches and snacks and Fairtrade coffee. Simon also runs a state-of-the-art two-room B&B upstairs. Located just north of Vrijdagmarkt.
reviewed
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Pelgrom
From the street you'd never guess it was here. But heading past a flickering open fire and down a narrow flight of stairs brings you into this cavernous cross-vaulted medieval cellar spanning several rooms, with long candlelit tables. If you're lucky you may catch the house magician; Pelgrom also serves 'medieval'-style feasts (around around €18 for a main).
reviewed
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Vlaamse Opera
A stunning building and a fitting place to hear a performance by the highly regarded Koninklijke Vlaamse Opera (Royal Flemish Opera). Built in 1907, the building's majestic façade is unfortunately diminished by the mirrored monstrosity built next to it in the 1960s. Still, the marbled interior is sumptuous and the quality of the performances superb.
reviewed
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Pelgrom
From the street you’d never guess it was here. But heading past a flickering open fire and down a narrow flight of stairs brings you into this cavernous cross-vaulted medieval cellar spanning several rooms, with long candlelit tables. If you’re lucky you may catch the house magician; Pelgrom also serves ‘medieval’-style feasts (around €18 for a main).
reviewed
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Café d'Anvers
Well over a decade old and still going strong, this legendary club does funk and house, disco and soul in a refurbished church in the city's red-light district. Many of Belgium's top DJs started here, and more are breeding. Every Friday night in July and August the club puts on Free Vibes, free dance nights featuring new, resident and visiting DJs.
reviewed
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‘t Poatersgat
Look carefully for the concealed hole in the wall and follow the staircase down into this cross-vaulted cellar glowing with ethereal pure-white lights and flickering candles. Opened in 2007, ‘t Poatersgat (which translates from the local dialect as ‘the Monk’s Hole’) has 120 Belgian beers on the menu, including a smashing selection of Trappists.
reviewed