Entertainment in Brussels
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‘t Velootje
Push through the heavy, unmarked door and take care not to trip over old bikes, or whack your head on the kero lamps cluttering this tiny, darkened garage as you take a seat at a low wooden picnic table. Lieven De Vos has turned his bicycle workshop into an informal bar, of sorts – ask for a beer and Lieven will bring out whatever he selects; his opening hours are ‘whenever I feel like opening until it closes down’ (try after 9pm).
reviewed
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Théâtre Royal de Toone
Eight generations of the Toone family have staged classic puppet productions in the Bruxellois dialect at this endearing marionette theatre, and it remains a highlight of any visit to Brussels. Shows are aimed at adults, but kids love them too. Discounted tickets for children and concession holders are available for €7, except on Friday and Saturday nights. The attached bar opens from noon to midnight.
reviewed
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Halles St-Géry
Occupying a huge, tiered former market hall on what was once an island, Halles St-Géry has an enormous obelisk at its centre marking ‘kilometre zero’ – the point from which all distances in Belgium are measured. Halles St-Géry now hosts art exhibitions by day, and the bar cranks of an evening when DJs spin funk, house and more. In summer, the party spills outdoors and goes on until the wee hours.
reviewed
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Casa Rosa
The ‘Pink House’ is an essential stop for gay and lesbian travellers to Ghent. The foyer bar attracts a mixed crowd, who can steer you to the latest hot spots. You’ll also find a gay and lesbian information office (generally open business hours on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday), and stands with city maps listing nightlife options and various other gay- and lesbian-friendly establishments.
reviewed
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Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant
Staff with a passion for beer serve over 140 brews in Waterhuis’ cosy interior and on its sprawling riverside terrace. Exclusive house brews include a knockout amber Klokke Roeland (11% alcohol and often drunk as a nightcap; with a limit of three per person) and a blonde Gandavum Dry Hopping (7.5% and quite possibly the best beer this author’s ever tasted). Unmissable.
reviewed
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L’Estaminet
With its weighty dark-timber beams, low lighting, fabulous scratchy background jazz and convivial clatter, this neighbourhood café scarcely seems to have changed since it opened in 1900. It’s primarily a drinking spot but also serves time-honoured dishes like spaghetti bolognaise with a baked cheese crust. Summer sees its loyal following flow onto the front terrace.
reviewed
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Simon Says
Inside one of Ghent’s only Art Nouveau buildings, this creative little newcomer has gold futuristic flying objects hand-drawn on its turquoise walls by celebrated contemporary Antwerp artist, Panamarenko. Great for light organic lunches and snacks and Fairtrade coffee. Simon also runs a state-of-the-art two-room B&B upstairs. Located just north of Vrijdagmarkt.
reviewed
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Pelgrom
From the street you’d never guess it was here. But heading past a flickering open fire and down a narrow flight of stairs brings you into this cavernous cross-vaulted medieval cellar spanning several rooms, with long candlelit tables. If you’re lucky you may catch the house magician; Pelgrom also serves ‘medieval’-style feasts (around €18 for a main).
reviewed
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‘t Poatersgat
Look carefully for the concealed hole in the wall and follow the staircase down into this cross-vaulted cellar glowing with ethereal pure-white lights and flickering candles. Opened in 2007, ‘t Poatersgat (which translates from the local dialect as ‘the Monk’s Hole’) has 120 Belgian beers on the menu, including a smashing selection of Trappists.
reviewed
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Wild Geese
During the week, Eurocrats party like it’s Paddy’s day at Brussels’ biggest Irish pub. It hosts regular live gigs, DJs and big-screen sports, and the kitchen turns out classic pub grub (loaded baked potatoes and juicy, thick-cut Irish steak), as well as a full Irish breakfast (OK, brunch – and with homemade soda bread!) from noon on weekends.
reviewed
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Hotsy Totsy
Iridescent striped wallpaper, velveteen booths and Ella Fitzgerald et al in the background make Hotsy Totsy a favourite haunt on any given night, but it’s positively hopping during live sessions (usually at least Tuesdays and Thursdays; gigs are posted on the website). The rear room doubles as a de facto gallery space for local artists.
reviewed
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De Republiek
Set around a courtyard, this big, buzzing space is a favourite with Bruggelingen (Bruges locals), located in the same smart premises as the art-house movie theatre, Cinema Lumière. DJs hit the decks on Friday and Saturday nights and there’s also a great range of well-priced meals, including vegetarian options, available until midnight.
reviewed
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Mokabon
The pungent aroma of coffee pervades your senses at this unpretentious coffee bar, which roasts its beans on the premises. Locals from all walks of life gather around the original Art Deco timber bar for hot coffee as well as iced coffee frappés. You can also buy the house-blend beans (ground or unground) for €13.20 per kilo.
reviewed
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Zebra
The coolest bars in Brussels have been established by local legend Fred Nicolay. The three on Place St Géry (Zebra, Mappa Mundo and Roi des Belges) were his first, and Zebra is the original of the originals. All three share the same traits - uncomfortable wooden garden chairs, lax service and the hippest of clientele.
reviewed
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Café Belga
DJs hit the decks on Friday nights at this Art Deco bar in the Flagey ‘liner’, with ad hoc music programming on other days, such as occasional Sunday jazz. The picture windows, deck-like interior and terrace all offer primo people-watching opportunities while you sip a Belga cocktail of vodka, Canada Dry and violet syrup.
reviewed
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Trollekelder
Wide-eyed furry trolls peep out from unlikely places throughout this old stone-walled watering hole, such as from behind iron-barred cells in the cave-like cellar. Trollekelder manages to be atmospheric without being contrived, as evidenced by the devoted following drinking its blonde and dark Trollebier (troll beer).
reviewed
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De Muze
This venerable café winds over three wooden storeys separated by curtains of fairy-lights. Musos (mainly local) take to the stage from 10pm Monday to Saturday and at 3pm on Sunday, during which time drinks cost an extra €0.50, with proceeds going to the performers. Gig schedules are posted on the door.
reviewed
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Du Phare
Tucked into the remains of one of Bruges’ original town gates, this off-the-beaten-track tavern serves up huge portions of couscous (and offers free bread, a rarity in Belgium). But Du Phare is best known for its live blues/jazz sessions – check the website for dates. Bus 4 stops out the front.
reviewed
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Paeters Vaetje
On a bleak, rain-swept afternoon, there’s no cosier spot to hole up than this snug bruin eetcafé (‘brown eating café’), with glowing lamps illuminating its dark timber main room and upper-level mezzanine. Dishes are simple and inexpensive, and the beer selection excellent.
reviewed
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Roi des Belges
This is one of Brussels' best summer terraces, with friendly staff and cheap snacks. It's also extremely popular, so be prepared to queue. It's owned by local entrepreneur, Frédéric Nicolay, who's responsible for transforming Place St Géry into the jumping scene it is today.
reviewed
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De Ultieme Hallucinatie
For a drink or brasserie fare (like shrimps in white wine) in spectacular Art Nouveau surrounds, stop by De Ultieme Hallucinatie. Built in 1850 in neoclassical style, this bar and restaurant was transformed in 1904 into the wrought-iron-filled showpiece it remains today.
reviewed
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Concertgebouw
Bruges’ stunning 21st-century concert hall is the work of architects Paul Robbrecht and Hilde Daem and takes its design cues from the city’s three famous towers and red bricks. Theatre, classical music and dance are regularly staged. The tourist office is situated at street level.
reviewed
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L’Archiduc
L’Archiduc is easily identified by its jade-green façade. Ring the bell to gain entry then lounge with a martini in this 1930s Art Deco bar, which has local line-ups (free) on Saturday, international acts (around €10) on Sunday and a truly fabulous atmosphere. Gigs start at 5pm.
reviewed
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Dirty Dancing@Mirano
Clued-in clubbers know the area for Dirty Dancing@Mirano. DJs here include the likes of Cosy Mozzy and the atmosphere is electric. However, locals caution against walking through the poorly lit streets late at night and advise visitors to catch a taxi instead.
reviewed
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Joey’s Café
These days Joey’s is run by Stevie, who performs with local band Cajun Moon and consequently, this dark, intimate bar is a gathering spot for Bruges’ musos. You can sometimes catch live music here (call to check dates), or chill out with a creamy Stevie cocktail any time.
reviewed
