Things to do in Khulna Division
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Safe ‘n’ Save
This supermarket is a good place to stock up on snacks and more before a Sundarbans adventure.
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Jahangir Enterprises
Good boat tour operators in Mongla include, Jahangir Enterprises. In recent years, the forestry department has banned any independent boats from Mongla (and other towns) from taking tourists on overnight trips into the Sundarbans. This rule was brought in after a couple of nasty incidents involving lost boats.
Nowadays, no matter what boatmen in Mongla may tell you, the only way to travel independently into the Sundarbans from Mongla is on a day trip to the Karamjal Forest Station. With raised walkways, viewing platforms and a small 'zoo' it's hardly the back of beyond, but surprisingly in recent years it's been one of the best places to see a tiger thanks to a lone cat t…
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Mr Emdad
Good boat tour operators in Mongla include, Mr Emdad. In recent years, the forestry department has banned any independent boats from Mongla (and other towns) from taking tourists on overnight trips into the Sundarbans. This rule was brought in after a couple of nasty incidents involving lost boats.
Nowadays, no matter what boatmen in Mongla may tell you, the only way to travel independently into the Sundarbans from Mongla is on a day trip to the Karamjal Forest Station. With raised walkways, viewing platforms and a small 'zoo' it's hardly the back of beyond, but surprisingly in recent years it's been one of the best places to see a tiger thanks to a lone cat that has deve…
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Shait Gumbad Mosque
Built in 1459, the same year Khan Jahan Ali died, the famous Shait Gumbad Mosque is the largest and most magnificent traditional mosque in the country. Shait Gumbad means 'the Temple with 60 Domes' - a misnomer given that there are actually 77. This fortress-like structure has unusually thick walls built in the tapering brick fashion known as Tughlaq and is an impressive sight.
Around Shait Gumbad are three other smaller, but equally worthwhile, mosques, all single-domed and in reasonably good condition. These are Bibi Begni's Mosque, about 500m behind Shait Gumbad and across a large pond, which has some interesting floral motifs; the bulbous Chunakhola Mosque, in a paddy…
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Khan Jahan's Tomb
Khan Jahan's Tomb is the only monument in Bagerhat that retains its original cupolas (domed ceilings). The cenotaph at the entrance is covered with tiles of various colours and inscribed with Quranic verses, but it is usually covered with a red cloth embroidered with gold threads. The mausoleum and the single-domed Dargah Mosque are enclosed by a massive wall with short towers at each corner and archways on the front and back.
It's a popular pilgrimage site and therefore has a little more colour and flair than some of the other monuments around here. The pond out front has a couple of crocodiles lurking in its depths which get regular chicken dinners from the site caretak…
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Guide Tours
The Swatch of No Ground, a deep-water canyon a short way offshore of the Sundarbans, acts as something of a magnet to Brydes whales and bottlenosed dolphins. Between December and February, Guide Tours organises boat trips out to this canyon where schools of up to 750 dolphins have been seen, and whale sightings are virtually guaranteed. It’s a one-day excursion that is added onto the Sundarbans tour at a cost of US$50. You will travel on a scientific boat and in addition to watching whales, you get to watch the scientists at work.
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Khodla Math Temple
The 20m-high spire on this extraordinary beehive-like Hindu building makes it one of the tallest Hindu structures ever built in Bangladesh and a must see. It was built by a Brahman in the early-17th century. The entrance façade is thought to have originally been decorated with moulded terracotta art, but it's now badly weathered.
Khodla Math is just outside the village of Ayodhya, about 11km from Bagerhat. Take a rickshaw or baby taxi to the market town of Jatrapur. From there ask directions to Ayodhya, 3km east along winding, paved paths.
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Grillhouse
Widely considered the best restaurant in Khulna, the locals rave about the kebabs and Chinese dishes (which form the bulk of the menu) at the Grillhouse, near New Market. There are also a few Indian and European dishes thrown in to leaven the mix. Be warned that the orange juice has salt mixed with it – apparently to improve the flavour of bad oranges! Fortunately the food doesn’t need much improvement.
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Divisional Museum
If you’ve got some time to kill before a boat or bus departure, the small collection of objects garnered from around Bagerhat and on display at the Divisional Museum should help pass half an hour or so. Opposite the Hotel Jalico is a large Hindu temple (Sir Iqbal Rd) dedicated to Shiva, in which colour and incense are virtually compulsory.
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St Paul's Catholic Church
Built in 1992, St Paul's Catholic Church is a fascinating Catholic church disguised as a Mosque! Skilfully embroidered wall hangings depict a Bangladeshi Christ and there are some bold stained-glass windows. You can purchase stunning embroideries from the attached sewing centre (open 09:00 to noon and 14:00 to 16:00, closed Sunday).
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Sureswar Hotel and Restaurant
Mongla isn’t overflowing with eating options. The local favourite is the Sureswar Hotel and Restaurant, located on the main drag, next to the Hotel Bangkok. It stocks the standards and has a handy ‘food catalogue’ painted onto the wall in English.
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Nine-Domed Mosque
On the western bank of the Thakur Dighi Pond, the recently repaired Nine-Domed Mosque is an impressive structure. The mihrabs (niches) are embellished with terracotta floral scrolls and foliage motifs, with a prominent chain-and-bell terracotta motif in the centre.
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Bagerhat Museum
This small and neatly arranged museum is located opposite the Shait Gumbad Mosque. It contains relics from the surrounding area and is a good place to get your bearings before setting out to explore Bagerhat.
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Royal Bengal Restaurant
If you need an escape, head across the river to the Parjatan Hotel, where you’ll find the Royal Bengal Restaurant, with a decent selection of Bangladeshi and European options in a quiet environment.
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Guide Tours
Guide Tours organises occasional tours to follow the maualis and hunt honey with them. It would be hard to think of a more fascinating, and gruelling, way of seeing the Sundarbans.
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Chun Beu Restaurant
A rare, authentic Chinese restaurant with a casual atmosphere helped along nicely by the equally casual blue-and-white checked tablecloths. It’s ideal for a go-slow meal with friends.
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Ronvijoypur Mosque
About 2km east of Shait Gumbad is the splendid Ronvijoypur Mosque. It is singularly impressive, with the largest dome in Bangladesh, spanning 11m and supported by 3m-thick walls.
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Rose Garden Chinese Restaurant
All your favourite (or by this stage in the game, possibly not) Bengali Chinese dishes. It’s tucked away on the upper floors of a small shopping centre.
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Cheers Food Centre
A new, shiny-orange snack bar modelled along Western lines with a variety of fried and unhealthy, but undeniably tasty, snacks of the burger ilk.
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Aloka Restaurant
We think this place is simply lovely and we’re not the only ones. Locals flock here to gorge on a feast of quality Bangladeshi fare.
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New Nuru Hotel
The unchallenged curry king of Jessore, but the fiery kebabs are also worthy of mention. Be prepared for some relentless staring.
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Hindu temple
Opposite the Hotel Jalico is a large Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, in which colour and incense are virtually compulsory.
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Zinda Pir Mosque
You might also want to check out the tumbledown Zinda Pir Mosque just north of the Nine-Domed Mosque.
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