Things to do in Dhaka
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Cofi Ii
One of the current hot spots with younger expats and locals for after-work drinks (non-alcoholic of course), stingy but enjoyable meals, and internet use. Try the chicken cooked in honey. It’s on the second floor of the shopping centre.
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Shankharia Bazar
With a crash of drums, a cloud of incense and a bursting paintbox of colours welcome to Shankharia Bazar, otherwise known as Hindu St. Lined on either side with ancient houses, garlands of lurid orange marigolds, and dark doorways leading to matchbox-sized shops and workshops, this is by far the most photogenic street in Old Dhaka. While exploring the bazaar keep one eye on the upper levels, where many of the houses have beautiful carvings.
The shankharis (Hindu artisans) busy themselves creating kites, gravestones, wedding-hats, jewellery, and bangles carved out of conch shells. Shankharis first came here over 300 years ago, but these days their art is slowly dying out. …
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National Assembly building
In 1963 the Pakistanis commissioned Louis Kahn, a world-renowned American architect, to design a regional capital for East Pakistan. Due to the liberation movement and ensuing war, the National Assembly building wasn't completed until 1982. The building often features in books on modern architecture, and is regarded as among Kahn's finest works.
It's a huge assembly of concrete cylinders and rectangular boxes, sliced open with bold, multi-storey circular and triangular apertures instead of windows, and is probably only considered attractive by fans of grim '70's architecture. It is not usually possible to approach the building too closely. On the opposite side of the road…
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Lalbagh Fort
Along with Sadarghat, Lalbagh Fort is one of the big hitters of Old Dhaka. Unlike the waterfront, which is full of raw energy, the fort is a slightly melancholy step back in the misty Mughal past of emperors and princesses. It’s particularly atmospheric in the early morning light.
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Gulshan Plaza Restaurant
Cheap and basic workman’s restaurant that has all your Bangladeshi favourites, as well as kebabs and roast chickens – all of which are near enough perfect. The boss is English-speaking.
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Sadarghat
Running calmly through the centre of Old Dhaka, the Buriganga River is the muddy artery of Dhaka and the very life blood of both this city and nation. To explore it from the deck of a small boat is to see Bangladesh at its most raw and grittiest. The panorama of river life is fascinating. Triple-towered ferries leer over thousands of bustling ant-like canoes. Country boats bump off the dirty hulks of domineering cargo and fishing boats.
On the grease-and-mud stained foreshores, you'll find children fishing with homemade nets in the lee of rusting tankers. Further out, repair men busy themselves crashing, bashing and scrubbing ship hulls while floating on planks of wood. B…
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Sitara Mosque
About 350m north of the Armenian church, you’ll come to Sitara Mosque, one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. Its striking mosaic decoration makes it look like your granny’s best teacups. The mosque dates from the early 18th century, but has been radically altered. It was originally built in the typical Mughal style, with four corner towers. Around 50 years ago a local businessman financed its redecoration with Japanese and English china-tiles, and the addition of a new veranda. If you look hard you can see tiles illustrated with pictures of Mt Fuji. Non-Muslims are normally welcome outside of prayer time, but you should dress appropriately and women should…
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Liberation War Museum
Liberation War Museum, chronicling one of the 20th century’s more deadly wars, is spread out over two floors and has been put together with enormous pride and respect. The display on the 1971 War of Independence is arranged chronologically, with English and Bengali newspaper reports, photographs and various memorabilia. The displays start off tame enough but gradually become more graphic before culminating in a room full of personal items (each of which comes with a short story on the owner’s life); a large pile of human skulls and bones; and some very disturbing photos of rotting corpses with bound hands being eaten by dogs and vultures. Though the displays might not ma…
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Dhakeswari Temple
About 1km north of Lalbagh Fort, up a short alley off Dhakeswari Rd, is the city's main Hindu temple, Dhakeswari Temple , dating from the 12th century. There are two sets of buildings. The one often seen in tourist photos consists of four adjoining rekha temples (buildings with a square sanctum on a raised platform with mouldings on the walls) covered by tall pyramidal roofs of the typical curvilinear bangla (bamboo-thatched hut with curved roof) style.
It's nothing special, but it is colourful and you are likely to find some long-haired sadhus (itinerant holy men) hanging around smoking ganja.
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National Museum
A visit to the National Museum is a good way of downloading information about Bangladesh. Sprawling over several floors it begins at the beginning with the geological formation of Bangladesh, whisks you through a rundown of the nation’s flora and fauna, saunters through a Buddhist and Hindu past, and brings you bang up to date with the War of Liberation and the creation of the modern state. Some of the exhibits are a little stale – the stuffed birds are looking more stuffed and less bird with every passing year, and it’s amazing how badly lit, displayed and labelled everything is.
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Sadarghat Boat Terminal
Among all the large ships are the tiny wooden ones that you can hire. These are available almost everywhere along the waterfront, though most people hire them from around Sadarghat boat terminal. An increasing number of foreigners in Dhaka are starting to hire boats out, so things are becoming more organised and most boatmen will know what you want to do (a lack of a common language isn’t much of a hindrance). It does however mean that prices are starting to rise and touts are beginning to come to life. The standard rate is Tk 100 per hour but many boatmen will push for a higher price.
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Suhrawardi Park
Beginning near the Old High Court and stretching all the way to the National Museum, Suhrawardi Park covers an enormous area. This was once a racecourse, where both the Bangladeshi Declaration of Independence and the surrender of Pakistani occupation forces took place in 1971. At night the park turns into an open-air market and also attracts hundreds of homeless who, living by the ‘safety in numbers’ motto, set up camp each evening on the pavements outside. A few unsavoury characters mean you should keep your wits about you at night around here.
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Dhaka University
Dating from 1921, Dhaka University has some fine old buildings. North of the Engineering University campus is the British Council Library and further north, on Kazi Nazrul Islam Ave, is the Institute of Arts & Crafts, which has an art gallery.
On the main campus, south of the Old High Court, Curzon Hall is the university's architectural masterpiece and science faculty. It's a fine example of the European-Mughal style of building erected after the first partition of Bengal in 1905. The red-brick building has eye-catching detail, and an elegant façade.
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Armenian Church of the Holy Resurrection
The peach-pink Armenian Church of the Holy Resurrection, is the soul of this now almost extinct community. The church, which dates from 1781, is an oasis of tranquillity in the heart of the crowded city. During the course of the Liberation War, the silver setting and organ were stolen and many of the graves were desecrated. Mr Martin, the caretaker, has done much to restore the church, and delights in giving personal tours. Note that you can’t get in without him unlocking the door for you.
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Khan Mohammed Mirdha’s Mosque
Some 500m west of Lalbagh Fort is Khan Mohammed Mirdha’s Mosque. Erected in 1706, this Mughal structure is stylistically similar to Lalbagh Fort. It is built on a raised platform, up a flight of 25 steps. Three squat domes, with pointed minarets at each corner, dominate the rectangular roof. To get a good view of this walled mosque, enter the main gate off the main road. Unfortunately, unless you’re here during prayer times (around 1pm), you’ll probably find the gate locked.
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Sat Gumbad Mosque
Dating from 1680, Sat Gumbad Mosque is a white-washed onion dome mosque, and the finest example of the pure Mughal-style mosque in Dhaka.
Unfortunately, few travellers see Sat Gumbad because of its somewhat remote location. Head north from Dhanmondi on Mirpur Rd, turn left through Asad Gate and go to the end of the road (1.5km). Then begin asking; it's nearby, towards the river. Women are admitted if appropriately dressed.
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Dharmarajikha Buddhist Monastery
The largest Buddhist cultural centre in the country is the Dharmarajikha Buddhist Monastery, located east of Sayedabad Rd. It contains an enormous bronze statue and one marble statue of Buddha. There's a peaceful pond here too; bring a book and get some reading done. The monastery is open during daylight hours (vague, but true). Take off your shoes before entering the temple and don't take photos of shrines without permission.
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Guide Tours
Guide Tours, the company with the best reputation, offers half- and full-day tours in and around Dhaka. Half-day tours cover Sadarghat, Lalbagh Fort, the Liberation War Museum and other sights, and cost Tk 1500 per person. Full-day tours include Savar or Sonargaon and cost Tk 2300 per person (minimum four people). Guide Tours also runs day trips to a pottery village near Savar and overnight stays in a village.
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Baldha Gardens
At the eastern end of Tipu Sultan Rd, and a block south of Hatkhola Rd, the Baldha Gardens in Wari provide a nice break from the rest of the sightseeing you’ll be doing in the area. The two walled enclosures, Cybele and Psyche, were once the private gardens of Narendra Narayan Roy, a wealthy zamindar, whose grandson gave them to the government in 1962 as a tribute to his family.
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Spitfire’s Barbeque & Grill
Located in the heart of the diplomatic quarter, the bevy of shiny 4WDs with ambassadorial standards and multi-national logos should tell you something about both the quality and price of the food here. Steaks are the staple, but you can also opt for quail and duck breast (but it would be cheaper to wait until you get back home). The atmosphere is far more relaxed than you’d expect.
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Hussaini Dalan
A block north of the central jail is Hussaini Dalan that looks more like a Hindu rajbari (landowner’s palace) than an Islamic building. It was built in the 18th century, near the end of the Mughal period, as the house of the imam of the Shi’ia community. The Ashura festival, on the 10th day of the Islamic month of Muharram, is celebrated here.
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Banga Bazar
Dhaka is a fantastic place for purchasing cheap ready-made garments, all of which are produced locally for export. If you’re ready to haggle, then head for Banga Bazar, a block west of Gulistan bus station. Although some of the clothes are seconds, with small flaws, most are over-runs. Banga Bazar is usually closed on Friday, but always check.
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New Market
The city’s largest market is New Market. You can find almost anything here including maps, material, saris and household items. It’s a great place to get kitted up in local gear. You can find pre-made salwar kameez (a long dress-like tunic worn by women over baggy trousers) for as low as Tk 200.
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Bangsal Rd
Bangsal Rd, in Old Dhaka's Bangsal, is the place to buy rickshaw parts. For rickshaw art try further along Bangsal Rd in Nazira Bazar, or Bangla Duair Lane. The art is painted on strips of tin and vinyl, and will fit in most suitcases. Prices are around Tk 50, sometimes more if it's special. Bargaining is required, of course.
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Nazira Bazar
For a souvenir of Bangladesh, you can't beat rickshaw art. The place to find this art is in Nazira Bazar on Bangsal Rd, popularly known as Bicycle St. The street begins 700m south of Gulistan bus station, heading west from North-South Rd, a block south of the well-marked Hotel Al-Razzaque International.
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