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From the outside this 18th-century bathhouse looks like a modern fake...
The big main building is a wedding palace, not a regular restaurant, but food and tea are served at clifftop pavilion seats in the park outside...
For little more than the price of a takeaway, the Araz offers decent doner kebabs that you can eat on a shaded, open-air terrace on the edge of Fountains Sq...
Tour groups are marched dutifully around this dowdy museum whose name is its most impressive feature...
With its twin Mediterranean- style towers, this Baku landmark was originally built as an oil-boom-era casino...
On the outskirts of the town towards Mayra-berd (Askeran) is the tuff statue of a bearded elder and a woman with a veil. It is named ‘We are our mountains’, their stony gaze embodying the indomitable local spirit.
The city’s vibrant theatre and concert season runs from mid-September to May, culminating with the world-class Baku Jazz Festival . Headline acts have included Herbie Hancock in 2006 and Aziza Mustafazadeh in 2007.
This little-advertised open-air balcony offers jaw-dropping views across the Escheresque Dom Soviet (Government House) building and Baku waterfront. It’s accessed through Shin-Shin Chinese restaurant at the Landmark.
East of town is the 1991 Nizami Mausoleum , a space shuttle–shaped tomb-tower flanked by a series of inspired sculptures depicting scenes from Nizami’s works. A vast aluminium smelter forms an incongruous backdrop.
With unusually high vaulting, Chocolate 2 hits the right balance between suave casual calm and a certain refined elegance...
Aproned grannies serve up fresh qutab (Azeri stuffed pancakes), düşbərə (mini-ravioli) and çığırtma (glorified chicken omelette) at this pleasant but simple open-sided chalet-stall with just four bench seats.
For years this intimate and brilliantly atmospheric basement club was the heart of Baku’s jazz scene, though recently performances have been sporadic and of rather variable quality. Bring mosquito repellent.
The Caspian Oil & Gas Show in early June is a week-long corporate shindig. While hardly a tourist draw, it brings in delegates from around the world, stretching the availability of top-end hotel rooms.
Open all hours with a wide-ranging menu and surprisingly plush decor given the bargain price range. Add AZN1.20 or so for the garnish with most main courses. Local Azerbaijani wine from AZN4.80 a bottle.
Oddly hidden away behind the military compound 4km south of the centre, Şəki’s first microbrewery already brews two excellent ales but has yet to finish its planned beer garden. Marshrutka 1A gets you near.
With wooden interior and thatched ceiling, this place is unexpectedly appealing for the location, and offers chicken ləvəngi , as well as cheap beers (50q) should you dare threaten your bladder before a bus trip.
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