Shopping in Azerbaijan
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Qadim Quba
You can watch Quba’s famous carpets being made at Qadim Quba, which also has a delightful boutique selling them along with handicrafts and paxlava (alternating layers of chopped nuts and white, stringy, fried pastry, all saturated in a sickly sweet syrup).
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Təzə Bazaar
The expansive Təzə Bazaar sells pottery, metalwork and carpets, as well as masses of fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and cheese. Saffron is a bargain at just 50q a pouch. Get there by southbound minibus 11, 8 or 5.
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Stepanakert Carpet Factory Showroom
The Stepanakert Carpet Factory Showroom sells handmade carpets and runners that make great souvenirs. It ships worldwide if you don’t want to lug your carpet around the Caucasus.
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Book Shop of the Presidential Administration
Sells an amusing selection of hagiographic literature about both Әliyevs, as well as postcards and several guide-pamphlets that you could have got for free from the tourist information office.
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MUM
Also known by its Russian acronym TsUM, Baku’s oldest department store is MUM with four floors of stall-shops selling everything from cheap electronics to wedding dresses.
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Kitab
The most reliable place to find excellent 1:500,000 topographic maps of Azerbaijan (AZN4). They’re rolled up amid other much poorer versions so ask to look at a few. No English spoken.
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Tourist Bazaar
The colourful tourist bazaar, along with various souvenir and ‘antique’ shops, mostly sells tacky rubbish, though the old Soviet-era badges are cheap and fun.
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Grand
Grand, with another branch on Nizami, offers a wide left-field selection of Western music, as well as Azeri and Russian music. Some staff are remarkably knowledgeable.
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Chiraq Books
Baku’s friendly English-language bookshop stocks a decent range of classics, bestsellers, travel guides and locally relevant titles, along with plenty of Christian literature.
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Nereni Arts & Crafts
Run by a diaspora Iranian, this shop carries a range of unique handcrafts created by local jewellers and artisans. A similar shop is at the Dghyak Hotel.
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ABC
ABC offers a wide left-field selection of Western music, as well as Azeri and Russian music. Some staff are remarkably knowledgeable.
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Təzə Bazar
For photogenically piled fruit and illicit caviar (beluga around AZN50 for 113g), head to Təzə Bazar
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Ziya
Ziya is well stocked, but overpriced, and aimed at Hyatt guests who can’t be bothered to shop around.
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Ipek Magazin
İpek Magazin, sells attractively simple silk scarves from AZN8.
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Arzaq supermarket
Close to the Hotel Şamaxı there is a well-stocked Arzaq supermarket.
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Central Vegetable Market
The central vegetable market is loveably dilapidated.
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Akadem-Kitab
Has a wide range of books but predominantly in local languages.
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Qlobus
Sells intriguing 20-year-old postcards.
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