Entertainment in Azerbaijan
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A
Philharmonia
The brilliant Philharmonia, originally built as an oil-boom-era casino, has an even grander interior and offers an eclectic (if unpredictable) concert programme.
reviewed
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Şarq Әfsanәsi
A much more upmarket çay evi (teahouse) can charge entirely ludicrous sums (AZN6 to AZN20) for a pot of tea with samovar of water and a range of jams and fruit. The best such places tend to be indoors, with comparatively exotic interiors, qalyan (hubble-bubble water pipes) to smoke and possibly a belly dancing show, as at Şarq Әfsanәsi.
reviewed
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Kafe Şələlə
For women wanting a teahouse experience without eliciting endless attention the best bet is Kafe Şələlə, where tables are ranged up an amphitheatre of paved terraces around an artificial waterfall. However, beware that the jams or pickled walnuts that arrive in lieu of sugar will each cost a whopping AZN3 extra.
reviewed
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B
Blues Bar
Enchanted-forest theme bar with trees and vines emerging from the walls and a ceiling lit with the moon and stars. The back patio is also forested and for once the Latin music adds some variety to the soundtrack. Around the same square there are several other cafés that serve alcohol.
reviewed
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C
Opera & Ballet Theatre
It's worth seeing a performance at Baku's 1910 Opera & Ballet Theatre, if only to admire the grand interior. Most productions are lavish and even less exciting repertory performances have the advantage of transcending language barriers.
reviewed
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D
Kafe Fəvvarələr
The same tea will cost around AZN2.50 if a ‘compulsory’ cut-up Snickers bar arrives with your teapot. This will happen at most places on the Bulvar and at the well-located Kafe Fəvvarələr.
reviewed
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E
Xəlifə
The better show (after 10pm) is at the atmospheric, Arabic-themed cellar-restaurant Xəlifə, ‘guarded’ – in questionable taste – by costumed African ‘slaves’.
reviewed
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F
Karavan Jazz Club
For years this intimate and brilliantly atmospheric basement club was the heart of Baku’s jazz scene, though recently performances have been sporadic and of rather variable quality. Bring mosquito repellent.
reviewed
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G
Brewery
In a spacious, stone-vaulted basement with heavy wooden furniture, Baku’s only brew-pub turns out very acceptable dark ales and less successful lagers. Germanic meals and pricey beer snacks are available.
reviewed
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H
Çempion Bar
This relatively quaint one-room cellar-bar is air-conditioned and comparatively comfortable. It’s easy to miss down a narrow stairway beside a barber’s shop on ‘Tae Kwon Do Alley’.
reviewed
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I
Konti Pub
This medieval-style bierstübe -cavern offers the novel concept of letting you pour your own draught beers. Be careful where you sit: some metered taps dispense Xırdalan at AZN3 per litre.
reviewed
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J
Café Caramel
Good espressos come with complimentary cookie and glass of chilled drinking water. Small, with modern décor including a bridge-like upper level offering street views down through century-old vaulting.
reviewed
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K
USSR
This basement Soviet-nostalgia bar is decidedly downmarket and a little musty, but has some fun photos of politburo stars and a Red Army coat and general’s cap that you can don for souvenir photos.
reviewed
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Azza
Three floors of coffee-and-cream minimalism within a historic pavilion right on Fountain Sq. Excellent food including decent pastas (AZN7) is served by self-consciously handsome, slow-motion waiters.
reviewed
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Aroma
Baku’s best combination of comfort, fashionable décor and great coffee. Pod lamps and electro-retro feel downstairs, street-view sofa seats above. It’s also a wi-fi hot spot.
reviewed
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Ocean Deck
Plonked in the middle of a duck pond, the terrace of this American café-bar makes a delightful people-watching perch in the summer. However, its small interior is rather lacklustre.
reviewed
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L
Public
More comfy sofa seating is hidden away in the back room behind the sparse front bar area. Excellent espressos are comparatively inexpensive (AZN2) and there’s an AZN6 lunch deal.
reviewed
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M
Space Kafe
Unadorned except for photo-posters of waving Әliyevs, the only options are çay (tea, 20q) or NZS beer (60q) plus noxut (boiled chickpeas) as a bar snack.
reviewed
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N
Chocolate
A classy, high-ceilinged café with pseudo-1920s touches, weighted hanging lamps and tasselled tablecloths on small wrought-iron tables. However, macchiatos are far too milky.
reviewed
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O
Café Mozart
With Klimt inside and a super-popular street terrace outside the Mozart remains a long-term favourite for AZN8 Turkish breakfasts, AZN10 lunch buffets or decent steak dinners.
reviewed
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P
Corner Bar
The most happening of Baku’s many Anglo-Irish-style pubs, the Corner has very competent live music, ‘33’ beer for AZN2 and a decent range of pub grub.
reviewed
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Q
Black City Pub
Although it’s not worth a special trip, this Germanic wood-interior bar is a handy choice if you’re staying at Hotel Araz. No spoken English, no menu.
reviewed
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R
Hazz
Choose from a vast range of designer coffees at this sedately hip businessman’s café-cum-wine bar which has low-key live jazz after 8pm.
reviewed
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S
Old Sheki Teahouse
Fabulously atmospheric, but only serving tea by the samovar accompanied by jams, fruit and confectionery (costing a minimum of AZN6).
reviewed
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T
Izmir
A classic venue is İzmir where Manana, a sort of local Kylie Minogue, enjoys a bizarre Vegas-style residence.
reviewed