Things to do in Wienerwald
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A
Thermalstrandbad
Because of the sulphur content in its healing waters, Baden bei Wien has a distinctive ‘poached egg’ smell in parts of town. All the more unusual, therefore, when an outdoor swimming pool used for recreation and fun has this ubiquitous ‘eggy’ scent. If you’ve got a finely tuned nose, the egg smell is very in your face at the Thermalstrandbad. With its dubious brownish stretch of sand backed by a functionalist building from 1926, the pool complex is a sulphurous Hades-meets-Majorca. Originally, the designers wanted to import sand from the Adriatic (not exactly known for sandy beaches, but anyway); in the end they settled for sand from Melk in the Danube Valley.
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Stift Heiligenkreuz
About 20km from Mödling is Heiligenkreuz and the 12th-century Cistercian abbey Stift Heiligenkreuz. The chapter house is the final resting place of most of the Babenberg dynasty, which ruled Austria until 1246. The abbey museum contains 150 clay models by Giovanni Giuliani (1663–1744), a Venetian sculptor who also created the Trinity column in the courtyard. Note that tours in English are by request only.
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Rollett Museum
The Rollett Museum, southwest of the town centre, covers important aspects of the town’s history. The most unusual exhibit is the collection of skulls, busts and death masks amassed by the founder of phrenology, Josef Gall (1752–1828), who sparked the craze of inferring criminal characteristics from the shape of one’s cranium.
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Beethovenhaus
Back in the town centre, one of the houses Beethoven stayed in has inevitably been turned into the Beethovenhaus with little to actually see; nearby, though, is the Dreifaltig-keitssäule, dating from 1714, dominating the Hauptplatz.
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D
Restaurant Villanova
Veal roulade with carrot, ginger and polenta was on the ticket when we visited. The menu is changing, but the standard is consistently high –food often features Austrian cuisine with Asian influences.
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Weinkult
This wine shop sells almost 150 Austrian wines and serves 10 (mostly) Austrian wines by the glass, rotating the selection on a weekly basis. Antipasto is served to prime the palate.
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Neumann im Josefsbad
This all-rounder serves light dishes such as chicken wings but is better known as a café and the hub of nightlife in town, with a DJ spinning on Friday and Saturday.
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Carmelite Convent
The Carmelite convent can be visited, but it’s not really worth the effort; all you see is a chapel and a couple of rooms of mementos.
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Café Central
Central takes pride of place on the Hauptplatz. It’s a ’60s-style café that’s a bit on the dark side but dripping with character.
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Nordsee
This fast-seafood chain is very convenient. The standard of freshness and hygiene is high, and the fish rolls are tasty.
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Römertherme
Römertherme offers the same health benefits albeit without the fun.
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