Museum sights in Vienna
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Leopold Museum
This museum is named after Rudolf Leopold, a Viennese ophthalmologist who, on buying his first Egon Schiele (1890–1918) for a song as a young student in 1950, started to amass a huge private collection of mainly 19th-century and modernist Austrian artworks. In 1994 he sold the lot – 5266 paintings – to the Austrian government for €160 million (sold individually, the paintings would have made him €574 million), and the Leopold Museum was born. The building has a white, limestone exterior, open space (the 21m-high glass-covered atrium is lovely) and natural light flooding most rooms. Considering Rudolf Leopold’s love of Schiele, it’s no surprise the museum contains the larg…
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Schatzkammer
The Schatzkammer (Imperial Treasury) contains secular and ecclesiastical treasures of priceless value and splendour – the sheer wealth of this collection of crown jewels is staggering. As you walk through the rooms you see magnificent treasures such as a golden rose, diamond studded Turkish sabres, a 2680-carat Colombian emerald and, the highlight of the treasury, the imperial crown. The wood-panelled Sacred Treasury has a collection of rare religious relics, some of which can be taken with a grain of salt: fragments of the True Cross, one of the nails from the Crucifixion, a thorn from Christ’s crown and a piece of tablecloth from the Last Supper. Audio guides in German,…
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Neue Burg Museums
Instruments of all shapes and sizes are on display at the Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente (Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments), the first of three-museums-in-one in the Neue Burg. The forward-thinking Archduke Ferdinand of Tyrol started the whole thing by collecting rare instruments and this now ranks among the finest Renaissance collections in the world.There are horns shaped like serpents and violins with carved faces, and a few of the historic instruments can be played. The admission price includes entry to two adjoining collections. The Ephesos Museum contains artefacts from Ephesus and Samothrace, supposedly donated by the Sultan in 1900 after a team of Austri…
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Haus Der Musik
The Haus der Musik is one of Vienna’s more unusual museums. Although some of the activities and exhibits could be a little more user-friendly, it manages to explain sound in an amusing and interactive way (in English and German) for both children and adults. The 1st floor hosts historical archives of the Vienna Philharmonic. Here you can listen to a shortened version of the world-famous New Year’s concert, and a bizarre interactive tool allows you to compose your own waltz with the roll of a die. The 2nd floor, called the Sonosphere, is where you can delve into the mechanics of sound. This features plenty of engaging instruments, interactive toys and touch screens. Here y…
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Palais Epstein
Designed by Theophil von Hansen, the same architect who created the plans for Austria’s national Parlament, Palais Epstein started life as home to the prominent Jewish Epstein family before being sold in 1873 to plug financial problems. It later became the infamous Soviet Union headquarters during the ‘four men in a jeep’ period after WWII – nicknamed the ‘Gateway to Siberia’ because around 1000 Austrians passed through its doorways on their deportation route to Siberia. Today it houses part of the Austrian national parliament and you can take tours through its hallowed halls (the glass atrium rises an impressive four floors) and visit its bel étage rooms. Wi…
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Theatermuseum
The baroque Lobkowitz palace, which houses the Theatermuseum, is as much a delight to see as the museum itself. Built between 1691 and 1694, it was at the cutting edge of the baroque movement and took its name from the noble family who occupied the esteemed halls from 1753 onwards. The Eroicasaal, with frescos dating from 1724–29, is its decorative highlight; the banquet hall is where Beethoven conducted the first performance of his Third Symphony. The palace has temporary and permanent exhibitions on the history of Austrian theatre, but a little German is needed to fully appreciate it. The permanent collection is devoted to Gustav Mahler and regularly changes themes. A s…
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Stift Klosterneuburg
This large Augustinian abbey dominates the small town of Klosterneuburg. Founded in 1114, the abbey's baroque face-lift didn't begin until 1730 and wasn't completed until 1842. The plans actually called for something far grander, but fortunately these were not realised, leaving large sections in their original medieval style. The abbey's museum is an eclectic mix of religious art from the Middle Ages to the present day. If you've ventured this far, however, you're better off including a guided tour on your itinerary, which takes in the cloister and the church (tours in English require advanced notice). The tour's highlight is the Verdun Altar in St Leopold's Chapel, an an…
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Hofmobiliendepot
The Hofmobiliendepot is storage space for furniture not displayed in the Hofburg, Schönbrunn, Schloss Belvedere and other Habsburg residences, plus a smattering of late-20th-century furniture thrown in. Covering four floors, the collection is a highlight for those whose first love is furniture design; for the rest of us it’s very interesting and worthwhile. Biedermeier aficionados will gravitate to the 3rd floor, where over a dozen rooms are beautifully laid out in the early 19th-century style, and a few dozen chairs from the era can be tested by visitors. In all, it’s the most comprehensive collection of Biedermeier furniture in the world. The 4th floor displays Jug…
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Secession
In 1897, 19 progressive artists broke away from the Künstlerhaus and the conservative artistic establishment it represented and formed the Vienna Secession ( Sezession; ). Their aim was to present current trends in contemporary art and shake off historicism. Among their number were Klimt, Josef Hoffman, Kolo Moser and Joseph M Olbrich (a former student of Wagner). Olbrich was given the honour of designing the new exhibition centre of the Secessionists. It was erected just a year later and combined sparse functionality with stylistic motifs. It served as a hospital during WWI and was torched by the retreating Germans during WWII (the gold dome survived the fire). The grou…
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Kunsthistorisches Museum
One of the unforgettable experiences of being in Vienna will be a visit to the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art History), brimming with works by Europe’s finest painters, sculptors and artisans. The museum has sculptures from classical times (and some copies) in its Egyptian-Oriental collection, atiques, a coin collection, and decorative curiosities from the Renaissance and baroque epochs (this section was closed for long-term restoration at the time of publication). These alone would be reason to set aside half a day or more for the museum, but the Picture Gallery takes it one echelon higher to offer a breathtaking window into mainly Flemish, Dutch, Italian and Ge…
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Technisches Museum
The Technical Museum has been around since 1918 and today is a modern museum dedicated to advances in the fields of science and technology. There are loads of hands-on gadgets allowing you to conduct experiments to demonstrate one or another phenomenon, but the most interesting aspect of the museum is its displays from past ages. A Mercedes Silver Arrow from 1950, a model-T Ford from 1923 and penny-farthing bicycles to name a few. The permanent exhibition is complemented by temporary ones, and overall it’s an interesting museum for the average visitor, but of course anyone with an engineering mind will absolutely love it. Das Mini section has loads of kids toys and activi…
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Museum für Angewandte Kunst
The Museum für angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Arts), better known as the MAK, has an extensive collection of household items better described as art. MAK shares its home with the excellent cafe Österreicher im MAK, and the building – a neo-Renaissance construction dating from 1871 – offers some fine features in its own right, especially the ceilings. Each exhibition room is devoted to a different style or sometimes a region. The basement houses the Study Collection. Here exhibits are grouped according to the type of materials used: glass and ceramics, metal, wood and textiles. MAK is free on Saturdays, and tours (€2) are available in German at 11am on Saturday and …
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Kunsthauswien
The KunstHausWien (Art House Vienna), with its bulging ceramics, lack of straight lines and colourful tilework, is another of Hundertwasser’s inventive creations. The art house is something of a paean in honour of the artist, illustrating his paintings, graphics, tapestry, philosophy, ecology and architecture. The gallery also puts on quality temporary exhibitions featuring other artists. Be sure to wander to the rooftop where you’ll find a shady patch of grass under the grove of trees. Monday is half-price day (unless it’s a holiday) and guided tours in German of the permanent exhibition leave at noon on Sundays and are included in the price.
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Uhren Museum
The municipal Uhren Museum (Clock Museum) loudly ticks away time from its location behind the Kirche Am Hof. Opened in 1921 in the Hafenhaus, one of Vienna’s oldest buildings, its three floors are weighed down with an astounding 21,200 clocks and watches, ranging from the 15th century to a 1992 computer clock. Its collection of Biedermeier and belle époque models will, for most, steal the show. The peace and quiet is shattered at the striking of the hour, so those with sensitive ears should avoid these times. Admission and guided tours at 10am and 11am on the first and third Sunday of the month are free.
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Sammlung Essl
This fine gallery is the brainchild of Agnes and Karlheinz Essl, collectors of contemporary art from the 20th and 21st centuries. They desired somewhere suitable to showcase their extensive collection, so they built the gallery. Expect to see a plethora of big names: Gerhard Richter, Hermann Nitsch, Georg Baselitz and Elke Krystufek are but a few of the artists on show. The construction itself is the work of Austrian architect Heinz Tesar and incorporates clean white lines, an abundance of natural light and plenty of open space. Entry is free from 7pm to 9pm on Wednesday.
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Archiv des Österreichischen Widerstands
Housed in the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall), the Austrian Resistance Archive documents the little-known antifascist resistance force that operated during the Nazi regime; some 2700 resistance fighters were executed by the Nazis and thousands more sent to concentration camps. The exhibition gives in-depth analysis of the Nazi doctrines on homosexuality, ‘unworthy’ citizens, concentration camps and forced labour, and there are many of the photos and memorabilia detailing the time before and after the Anschluss. It is a disturbing but highly worthwhile exhibition.
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Wien Museum
The Wien Museum provides an insightful snapshot of the development of Vienna from prehistory to the present day, putting the city and its personalities in a meaningful context. Exhibits are spread over three floors. Begin on the ground floor from the right as you enter. This section traces the history of the city from 5600 BC to the end of the Middle Ages. The 1st floor covers the Renaissance and baroque eras and has a fascinating model of the city in its medieval heyday. The 2nd floor begins with the Biedermeier era and works its way through the 20th century.
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Architekturzentrum Wien
The Architekturzentrum Wien (Vienna Architecture Centre) collectively encompasses three halls used for temporary exhibitions, a library and a cafe. Exhibitions focus on international architectural developments, and change on a regular basis. The extensive library is open to the public 10am to 5.30pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday and until 7pm on Saturday and Sunday. The centre also organises regular walking tours through Vienna on Sunday (in German), covering various architectural themes. You need to book ahead; see the website for dates and prices.
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Museum Judenplatz
The main focus of this Jewish museum is the excavated remains of a medieval synagogue that once stood on Judenplatz. Built around 1420, the basic outline of the synagogue can still be seen, illuminated with subdued lighting. A small model of the building completes the picture. After entering the museum you get headphones and descend into a film room to watch an informative 12-minute video on Judaism, the synagogue and the Jewish quarter. Next up are excavations, after which you can search the databases for lost relatives or friends if you wish.
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Pathologisch-Anatomisches Bundesmuseum
The Pathologisch-Anatomisches Bundesmuseum (Pathological Anatomy Museum) is not for the weak of heart. Filled with medical oddities and abnormalities preserved in jars of formaldehyde, plus the odd wax model with one grisly disease or another, the museum definitely will take your breakfast to the edge. Tours last 45 minutes but there are no set times – just roll up and ask, or call ahead. The Narrenturm itself dates from 1784 and is a delightfully circular, neoclassical design by the Franco-Austrian Isidore Canevale (1730–86).
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Lipizzaner Museum
The Lipizzaner Museum focuses on the famous white stallions of the Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School). A cross-breed of Spanish, Arab and Berber horses, the Lipizzaner were first imported from Spain (hence ‘Spanish’) by Maximilian II in 1562, and in 1580 a stud was established at Lipizza (hence ‘Lipizzaner’), now in Slovenia. Text is in English, but the content is a little thin. Windows allow a view directly into the stallion stables, albeit obscured by thick glass and fine mesh.
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Geymüllerschlössel
The Geymüllerschlössel, named after its first owner, the banker and merchant Johann Jakob Geymüller, is arguably the finest example of Biedermeier architecture in Austria. Built around 1808 by an unknown architect, it is a mixture of Gothic, Indian and Arabic styles characteristic of the times. The interior, embellished with floral designs and graceful lines, is perfectly preserved. It houses the collection of around 160 Viennese clocks dating from 1760 to the second half of the 19th century, and furniture from the period 1800 to 1840.
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Heeresgeschichtliches Museum
In the wake of the 1848 rebellion, Franz Josef I decided his defences needed strengthening and ordered the building of the Arsenal. This large collection of barracks and a munitions depot was completed in neo-Byzantine style in 1856. Its handsome facade belied the true purpose of the building: it was a fortress built to discourage any further uprisings. At the same time Franz Josef established the Heeresgeschichtliches Museum (Museum of Military History) within the Arsenal, making it the oldest public museum in Vienna.
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Staatsopermuseum
This shrine to Viennese high culture covers the last 50 years of the Staatsoper. It relies mostly on photographs to take you through highlights such as Karajan’s eight-year reign as director. Opera lovers who don’t understand German will enjoy the aura and being surrounded by the portraits of operatic greats; others with a passing interest will like the occasional gem, such as Dame Margot Fonteyn’s stub-toed ballet slipper. A visit to this museum is best combined with a tour of the Staatsoper.
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Globenmuseum
Part of the Nationalbibliothek (National Library) collection of museums, this small museum situated inside a former palace (Palais Mollard) is dedicated to cartography. Among the collection of 19th-century globes and maps are a couple of gems a few centuries older. Look for the globe made for Emperor Karl V by Mercator in 1541. An interactive model of this alongside the real one allows you to zoom in on the 16th-century world for close-ups that get a little rough.
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