Dark sights in Vienna
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A
Kaisergruft
The Kaisergruft beneath the Kapuzinerkirche (Church of the Capuchin Friars) is the final resting place of most of the Habsburg royal family (the hearts and organs reside in Augustinerkirche and Stephansdom, respectively). Opened in 1633, it was instigated by Empress Anna (1585–1618), and her body and that of her husband, Emperor Matthias (1557–1619), were the first to be entombed. Since then, all but three of the Habsburg dynasty found their way here. Fashions change over time, and this also goes for a decent Habsburg farewell. Tombs range from the sleek and unadorned to the fiddly and pompously baroque, such as the huge double sarcophagus containing Maria Theresia and Fr…
reviewed
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B
St Marxer Friedhof
Also known as the Biedermeier cemetery, after the period in which all 6000 graves were laid out, St Marxer Friedhof (Cemetery of St Marx) is a pilgrimage site for Mozart aficionados. In December 1791 Mozart was buried in an unmarked grave with none of his family present. Over time the site was forgotten and his wife’s search for the exact location was in vain. The search did, however, bear one fruit: a poignant memorial, Mozartgrab, made from a broken pillar and a discarded stone angel was erected in the area where he was most likely buried. In May the cemetery is blanketed in lilies and is a sight to behold.
reviewed
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C
Michaelerkirche
The Michaelerkirche dates from the 13th century and, not counting the Roman ruins, is the oldest building on Michaelerplatz. The most interesting aspect of the church is its burial crypt, which you can see on 40-minute bilingual German/English tours at 11am and 1.30pm Monday to Saturday between Easter and October. Out of respect for the dead, taking photos is not allowed. Only the well-off and noble were buried in the crypt, and unlike the catacombs in Stephansdom, it wasn’t used for plague victims.
reviewed
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D
Zentralfriedhof
The cemetery has three gates: the first is opposite Schloss Concordia and leads to the old Jewish graves; the second, the main gate, directs you to the tombs of honour and the cemetery’s church, Dr Karl Lueger Kirche; the third is closer to the Protestant and new Jewish graves. The information centre and map of the cemetery are at Gate Two.
reviewed
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E
Hietzinger Friedhof
Aficionados of Vienna’s Secessionist movement will want to make the pilgrimage to the Hietzinger cemetery to pay homage to some of its greatest members. Klimt, Moser and Wagner are all buried here. Others buried in the cemetery include Engelbert Dollfuss, leader of the Austro-Fascists, assassinated in 1934, and composer Alban Berg.
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