Zentralfriedhof

Lonely Planet review

Opened in 1874, the Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery) has grown into one of Europe's biggest cemeteries - larger than the Innere Stadt and, with 2.5 million graves, far exceeding the population of Vienna itself. It has the majority of tombs of Vienna's greats, including Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, Schönberg and the whole Strauss clan. There's even a monument to Mozart, although he was buried in an unmarked mass grave in the St Marxer Friedhof.

The first of its three gates is opposite Schloss Concordia and leads to the old Jewish graves. The second, the main gate, which has the info centre and map, directs you to the tombs of honour and the cemetery's church, Dr Karl Lueger Kirche. The third is closer to the Protestant and new Jewish graves.

Besides the clump of famous composers, the tombs of honour include tose of Hans Makart, sculptor Fritz Wotruba, architects Theophil Hansen and Adolf Loos, and the man of Austrian pop, Falco (Hans Hölzel).

Behind the Dr Karl Lueger Kirche, at the far end of the cemetery, are simple plaques devoted to those who fell in the world wars. These are in contrast to the ostentatious displays of wealth in the mausoleums of the rich. Most graves are well-maintained. For a further contrast, wander around the old Jewish section, where the tangle of broken headstones and undergrowth is a reminder that few relatives are around to maintain these graves.