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Do & Co Stephansplatz
Do & CO is still the darling of Vienna's who's who (politicians, the business elite) despite a thorough renovation in 2005. Subtle lighting, pseudo lounge chairs and light-brown shades create a vaguely retro look while the silver service and views of Stephansdom remain the same. The international menu heavily features Austrian favourites but its highlight is the exceptional Thai cuisine.
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Do-An
The menu is so successful that it's hardly changed in the six years Do-An has been open. Excellent Illy coffee is a perfect starter, as are the simple sandwiches and salads, but you might be tempted to skip straight to one of the breakfasts from around the globe: The American reads more like a traditional English fry-up and the Continental is a nice, light starter of bread and spreads. Regulars enjoy the relaxed vibe and sunny corners.
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En Japanese
A Tokyo chef and Hokkaido staff have banded together to create an exceptional Japanese restaurant in a quiet corner of the Innere Stadt. The 14 varieties of sushi (including octopus and sweet shrimp) are well above par; unlike many places in Vienna, EN is generous with the fresh fish. The wasabi (Japanese horseradish) is sharp but not overpowering, the gyoza (Japanese dumplings) delightful. The atmosphere is suitably peaceful and respectful.
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Etap
Etap might not have Kent's garden or its popularity, but it certainly has its authenticity and heavenly Turkish cuisine. Its pan dishes arrive piping hot to the table, the wood grill adds a lovely flavour to the likes of the Shish Kebab and the stuffed zucchini with yoghurt is hard to pass over. The buffet (around €9 ) on Friday and Saturday (from onwards) is a smorgasbord of Etap's best dishes; after live music accompanies the feast.
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Expedit
With warehouse shelves, simple furniture and an open kitchen, the owners of Expedit have succeeded in creating a laid-back yet smart look. The ever-changing menu offers a mix of divinely prepared Italian classics and creations from whatever is in season.
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Figlmüller
Vienna's namesake culinary speciality, the Wiener schnitzel , is a pork or veal cutlet coated in batter and fried. This place reputably serves the biggest and best schnitzels in town. Though generally packed, it's an entertaining venue, and provides an authentic eating experience.
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Flein
Every day brings a new menu to Flein, but one invariably from the creative school of cooking. When we visited, zucchini quiche and Eierschwammerl risotto satisfied the vegetarians, while grilled calamari and herbed lamb Stelze (hocks) pleased the meat eaters. The small garden, backing onto the French cultural institute, is peaceful and secluded despite busy Währinger Strasse being so close at hand. In summer, book ahead to secure a table.
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Gasthaus Wickerl
Wickerl is a beautiful Beisl with an all-wood finish and a warm, welcoming environment. Seasonal fare, such as Kürbiscremesuppe (cream of pumpkin soup) and Kürbisgulasch (pumpkin goulash) in autumn, Marillenknödel in summer and Spargel (asparagus) in spring are mixed in with the usual Viennese suspects. It's so good the city's top chefs dine here. If you can't make it to Alsergrund, stop in at Wickerl's Naschmarkt outpost, Stand 525-529.
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Gasthaus Wild
Unassuming Radetzkyplatz is home to Gasthaus Wild, a former dive of a Beisl but now a sensational restaurant. Its dark, wood-panelled interior has been scrubbed and polished and its menu upgraded to not only include favourites like Gulasch and Schnitzel mit Erdäpfelsalat (schnitzel with potato salad), but also more imaginative dishes that change regularly. The ambience is relaxed, the staff welcoming and the wine selection good.
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Gaumenspiel
Gaumenspiel is an immaculate, modern Beisl . The food is international with a heavy Mediterranean influence - try spinach dumplings with Parmesan and beetroot soup with Greek yoghurt - and cooked with professionalism and care. The service is attentive without being overbearing. There's a sense of calm and informality about the chalkboard menu, light decor and handful of streetside tables in summer. Reservations are recommended for dinner.
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Gesundes
Healthy food, a healthy ambience and a healthy attitude prevail at this tiny organic eatery and shop. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are prepared using the principles of the five Chinese elements (wood, fire, earth, metal, water) to strike a balance of wellbeing; the menu changes daily but expect lightly spiced earthy dishes (polenta, rice, potatoes, vegetables) complimented by freshly squeezed fruit juices. Cooking courses are also available.
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Goldmund
Goldmund is one of the new breed of Beisl in the city. Its light, bright and breezy ambience extends to its cooking; plenty of basil and olive oil creates the flair and taste of the Mediterranean. Vegetarian dishes such as tomatoes with mushrooms and basil pesto are always available and organic juices and select wines compliment nicely. Reservations aren't necessary but are advisable, particularly if you're set on an outdoor table in summer.
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Griechenbeisl
As the oldest guesthouse in Vienna (it first opened its doors in 1447), and once frequented by Beethoven, Schubert and Brahms, Griechenbeisl is firmly on the tourist trail. It's still a lovely haunt, with vaulted rooms, age-old wooden panelling and a figure of Augustin trapped at the bottom of a well just inside the front door. Every classic Viennese dish is on the menu, and in summer the plant-fringed front garden is the best place to be.
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Haas & Haas
The fragrance of tea from around the world greets customers on entry to Haas & Hass, Vienna's prime teahouse. Green, herbal, aromatic, Assam, Ceylon, Darjeeling; the selection seems endless. The rear garden is a shaded retreat from the wind, rain, sun and tourist bustle, while the front parlour sports comfy cushioned booths and views of Stephansdom.
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Halle
Managed by the owners of Motto, Halle is the resident eatery of the Kunsthalle. The interior has plenty of optical tricks, like cylindrical lamps and low tables, and the kitchen churns out antipastos, pastas, salads and Asian dishes to eager tourists and Vienna's 'see and be seen' crowd. On steamy summer days, it's usually a fight for an outside table between the Kunsthalle and MUMOK.
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Hotel Riviera
Tucked away in the backstreets of the Innere Stadt, this lovely little restaurant has plenty of charm and charisma. The menu is a creative blend of Italian and Austrian cuisine: Homemade gnocchi with tomato-basil sauce or truffle oil and Parmesan sits alongside grilled zander with carrot strudel. Seasonal vegetables and wild-game dishes feature heavily. Service is fresh and unpretentious, the decor plain and very creamy.
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Il Sestante
Enjoy a slice of Italy in Vienna. Take a seat, order from a long list of mozzarella-based pizzas (including white pizzas - without tomato sauce), watch the skilled pizza-makers spin the base like plates, then sit back with a glass of Montepulciano d´Abruzzo and wait for it to arrive from the wood oven. Choose a table indoors near the animated waiters or one outside on pretty Jodok-Fink-Platz, with Piaristenkirche as a backdrop.
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Immervoll
Even though it changes daily, a menu strong with Austrian standards and a hint of Italian and Asian cuisine consistently greets diners at this esteemed eatery. Inside, the vaulted ceilings and subtle touches of interior design (by Hermann Czech, architect of nearby Kleines Café) create a surprisingly cosy space, but best of all is the seating on Franziskanerplatz in summer.
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Indian Pavillon
Indian Pavillon is easily the smallest Indian place in the city, but it's also the best. Using the freshest ingredients direct from the Naschmarkt, it whips up a storm of soups (the lentil soup is a must), lamb and chicken curries, biryanis , and thali (platters). While the dishes have certainly been tempered for the Viennese palate, there's still enough bite to please. The handful of tables fill up quickly, so you may have to settle for takeaway.
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Kent
Kent means 'small town' in Turkish, an appropriate name considering the hordes that frequent this ever-expanding Turkish restaurant. The food is consistently top-notch and, in summer, the tree-shaded garden is one of the prettiest in the city. The vegetarian and breakfast selections will please most, and everything is available for takeaway. For late-night desserts, try the bakery next door, open 24-hours a day, seven days a week.
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Kim Kocht
Kim Kocht has been the talk of the town for years. Its Korean and Japanese cuisine is renowned for its originality, quality and creative presentation. The three- to five-course menus are constantly changing but often feature fish as the main, and always use organic produce. The restaurant only seats 25 and its popularity means making reservations at least one month ahead.
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Konoba
Few restaurants in the city come close to Konoba's expertise with fish. The Dalmatian chefs know their product inside-out and always manage to serve the catch fresh from the pan so that it's neither too dry nor too raw. Zander and Goldbrasse (sea bream) are often on the menu, but expect to find a healthy array of seasonal dishes, too. The open-plan interior helps create a convivial atmosphere despite the stuffy crowd.
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Livingstone
A creative menu and long hours (the kitchen closes at ) have helped keep Livingstone on Vienna's culinary short list for some time. Strips of marinated beef with ginger sit comfortably alongside Japanese soba (buckwheat) noodles and the chilli-burger. In between servings, it's possible to nip in for a wee drab of whiskey at bar Planters next door.
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Lusthaus
The Lusthaus is a former hunting lodge from the Habsburg days with an abundance of 19th-century elegance. The menu is a mix of hearty Austrian specialities and lighter options: Wienerschnitzel is of course present, but so is Steirischer Backhendlsalat (Styrian chicken salad) and Trüffel-Gnocchi (truffle-gnocchi). Count on plenty of seasonal dishes too. Considering combining your visit with a long walk in the park.
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Mas!
A designer bar specialising in cocktails and Mexican food, Mas! attracts an affluent and well-groomed set. Choose from a high, wobbly stool at the long, shimmering bar backed by an enormous light installation or, for a more intimate evening, a low, dimly lit table. Its Sunday brunch - a mix of Cajun, English and American breakfasts between and - is legendary. Happy hour is from to daily.
