It’s silent enough to hear a pin drop in the tiny village of Kefermarkt, home to the Pfarrkirche St Wolfgang. The pilgrimage church’s main claim to fame is its Gothic Flügelaltar (winged altar). A masterpiece of craftsmanship, the limewood altarpiece towers 13.5m, with latticework fronds rising towards the ceiling. At the centre are three expressive figures, carved with great skill (left to right as you face them): St Peter, St Wolfgang and St Christopher. The wings of the altar bear religious scenes in low relief.
Perched on a hill overlooking the forest and Schloss Weinberg’s red turrets is microbrewery-cum-guesthouse Schlossbrauerei Weinberg, 10 minutes’ walk from Kefermarkt. Homebrews are paired with hearty flavours like beer-drenched goulash, beer-battered schnitzel and fresh trout in the vaulted restaurant (mains €6 to €10), which opens onto a tree-shaded terrace. The quiet rooms have small windows with views of the castle.
Frequent trains travel between Kefermarkt and Freistadt (€2, 10 minutes). The church is about 1km north of the train station.