Sights in Tirol
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Zammer Lochputz
A rollercoaster of water thrashes limestone cliffs at Zammer Lochputz, a fine specimen of a gorge just outside of Landeck. Cutting a path through pine forest, the trail passes viewpoints and some interesting rock formations – look out for the head of a bull and a nymph.
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Römerhofgasse
The big draw in the centre is the gingerbready Römerhofgasse, a medieval lane that looks like a Disney film set with overhanging arches, lanterns and frescoed façades. Even the obligatory shops full of tourist kitsch detract little from this fairytale-like alleyway.
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Swarovski Kristallwelten
Swarovski Kristallwelten tops the list of Austria’s most-visited attractions. Call them kitsch or classy, there is no doubting the popularity of these crystals, displayed in all their glory at this fantastical playground. A giant’s head spewing water into a pond greets you in the park. Inside you’ll find Alexander McQueen’s crystal tree, zebras drifting past on ruby slippers in a twinkling theatre, and the world’s biggest crystal, weighing in at 62kg. Terence Conran’s shop by the exit is where, depending on your budget, you can buy a bejewelled pen for €1.30 or splurge on a €14,800 crystal-studded iguana. Decisions, decisions…
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Stadtpfarrkirche St Andrä
A Gothic gem just north of the Isel River, Stadtpfarrkirche St Andrä is a quiet spot for contemplation. Peer inside the rib-vaulted interior to see 14th-century frescoes and a pair of tombstones sculpted in red Salzburg marble. Its hidden gem is the solemn Kriegergedächtniskapelle (war memorial chapel) sheltering Albin Egger-Lienz’s eye-catching sculpture of Jesus in nought but a skimpy loin cloth, which scandalised the Vatican when it was unveiled to the public in 1925. To visit the chapel, pick up the key that hangs on the door at Pfarrgasse 13 (across the bridge facing the main entrance).
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Roman Archaeological Site
This Roman archaeological site, with an ultramodern museum to boot, is unique in these parts. Excavations are still under way to piece together the jigsaw puzzle of this 2000-year-old municipium, which flourished as a centre of trade and commerce under Emperor Claudius. Take a stroll outside to glimpse the Roman spa, artisan quarter and a reconstructed villa. The glass-walled museum explores Lienz’s Roman roots in greater depth, with interactive stuff for the kids (a virtual tour through Aguntum and dress-up costumes) and an exhibition featuring fun elements such as traditional Roman recipes.
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Schloss Ambras
The city’s biggest stunner is Schloss Ambras. Archduke Ferdinand II acquired the castle in 1564, the year he became ruler of Tyrol, and transformed it from a fortress into a palace. He was the mastermind behind the Spanische Saal (Spanish Hall), a 43m-long banquet hall with a wooden inlaid ceiling and Tyrolean nobles gazing from the walls. Also note the grisaille (grey relief) around the courtyard and the sunken bathtub where his beloved Philippine used to bathe.
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Hofkirche
Opposite the Hofburg is the majestic Hofkirche, which shelters the empty sarcophagus of Emperor Maximilian I. Elaborately carved from marble, the tomb is one of the finest examples of German Renaissance sculpture. The twin rows of 28 giant bronze figures that flank the sarcophagus include Albrecht Dürer’s statue of the legendary King Arthur, apparently Maximilian’s biggest idol. Tyrolean hero Andreas Hofer (1767–1810) is also entombed in the church.
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Pfarrkirche St Oswald
A must-see if you believe in miracles is 15th-century Pfarrkirche St Oswald. It was here that Oswald Milser gobbled a wafer reserved for the clergy at Easter communion in 1384. After almost being swallowed up by the floor, the greedy layman repented, but the wafer was streaked with blood – not from foolish Oswald but from Christ, naturally. Climb the stairway to view the Blutskapelle (Chapel of the Holy Blood), which held the original wafer.
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Zeughaus
Emperor Maximilian’s former arsenal, the Zeughaus runs chronologically through Tyrol’s cultural history. It kicks off with geological and mineral history, including the silver that made Hall and Schwaz medieval powerhouses, but mostly concentrates on Tyrol’s much-loved historical figure, Andreas Hofer. If you’re a fan of Tyrolean music, check out the room housing over 100 CDs from the province’s musical stars.
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Reither Moor Conservation Area
It's a short stroll south of the centre to Wildsee, a bottle-green, pine-fringed lake that anchors Reither Moor Conservation Area; a 45-minute trail rings the lake and you can stop off for a refreshing dip at the Strandbad (bathing area). For longer, more challenging walks, cable cars ascend nearby Seefeld Spitze (2220m) and Reither Spitze (2374m); consult the tourist office for more information or join one of its regular guided walks.
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Hofburg
The state apartments are a rococo feast, adorned with gold swirls and chandeliers, but the real eye-catcher is the 31m-long Riesensaal (Giant’s Hall). The hall is embellished with frescoes and paintings of Maria Theresia and her 16 children (including Marie Antoinette), who look strangely identical –maybe the artist was intent on avoiding royal wrath arising from sibling rivalry in the beauty stakes.
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Stadtpfarrkirche St Jakob
The monolithic Stadtpfarrkirche St Jakob dominates the old town. The interior is interesting, but bring binoculars or a good zoom lens to really appreciate details of its frescoes. The far end of the nave has a stuccoed ceiling and a vast rococo altar in gold leaf, arrayed with fresh cream flowers, and its walls are studded with the ornate memorial plaques of the region’s noble families.
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Schloss Landeck
Your gaze is drawn upward to the turrets and vine-clad towers of 13th-century Schloss Landeck. The 1st-floor museum showcases everything from Celtic figurines to handcarved Krampus masks. The castle is especially lovely at Christmas when the mechanised nativity scene is in full swing. For enviable views over Landeck and the Lechtaler Alps, climb the dizzying staircase to the tower.
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Grassmayr Glockenmuseum
If you’re heading for Bergisel, listen out for the bells at Grassmayr Glockenmuseum, which explores 400 years of the Grassmayr family’s bell-making tradition and exhibits some formidable Romanesque and Gothic examples. It’s a hands-on kind of place where kids can watch the casting process and make loads of noise ringing bells to achieve different notes.
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Bergisel Schanze
Rising above Innsbruck like a celestial staircase is the glass-and-steel Bergisel Schanze, the brainchild of Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid. From May to July, fans pile in to see athletes train, while preparations step up a gear in January for the biggest event on the ski jumping calendar, the Vierschanzen-Tournee (Four Hills Tournament).
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Volkskunst Museum
For an insight into Tyrolean craftwork, nip into the Volkskunst Museum. This rambling attic of a museum covers the entire spectrum of folk art, from handcarved sleighs and Christmas cribs to carnival masks and cow bells. On the 1st floor is the Gothic Stube (living room) complete with low-ceiling, wood panelling and antique tiled oven.
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Erlebnis Sennerei
For a fly-on-the-wall tour of a working dairy, head to the Erlebnis Sennerei. A glass-walled walkway reveals cheese-making processes, stepping from copper vats full of creamy milk to cheese ripening in salt baths. The final products are huge wheels of Tilsiter, Bergkäse and Graukäse, a mouldy grey cheese that is virtually fat-free.
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Rundgemälde
The Rundgemälde is a 1000-sq-metre panorama painting depicting the Battle of Bergisel. The circular building that houses the painting also features an extremely evocative exhibition detailing epic overland trips by Austrian travel writer Max Reisch (1912–85) in the days before long-distance travel became so easy.
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Festung Kufstein
For an insight into Kufstein’s turbulent past, head up to the clifftop Festung Kufstein. The castle dates from 1205 (when Kufstein was part of Bavaria) and was a pivotal point of defence for both Bavaria and Tyrol during the struggles. The round Kaiserturm (Emperor’s Tower) was added in 1522.
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Heimatmuseum
The hilltop castle now houses the Heimatmuseum, which chronologically runs through Tyrol’s heritage in its atmospheric rooms, displaying everything from oil paintings to Cold War memorabilia. The tower rotates exhibitions of avant-garde works and is worth climbing for exhilarating views over Lienz.
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Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum
A treasure-trove of Tyrolean history and art, the Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum showcases everything from Bronze Age finds to religious works and pewter creations. Highlights include brooding Dutch and Flemish masterpieces, Gothic altarpieces and famous paintings from the likes of Klimt and Kokoschka .
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Museum
A treasure-trove of Tyrolean history and art, this museum showcases everything from Bronze Age finds to religious works and pewter creations. Highlights include brooding Dutch and Flemish masterpieces, Gothic altarpieces and famous paintings from the likes of Klimt and Kokoschka.
reviewed
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Silberbergwerk Schwaz
You almost feel like breaking out into a rendition of Hi-Ho at Silberbergwerk Schwaz, as you board a mini-train and venture deep into the bowels of the silver mine for a 90-minute trundle through Schwaz’s illustrious past. The mine is about 1.5km east of the centre.
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Pfarrkirche
The slender spire of the pink-and-white Pfarrkirche rises above the village and is surrounded by a sea of filigree crosses. You can peek inside the church, but you do so at your own risk – a sign on the door issues a warning that it is not a museum!
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Kaiserjäger Museum
Kaiserjäger Museumis the site of the famous battle in 1809 at which heroic Andreas Hofer defeated the Bavarians. On display are memorials to Tyrolean freedom fighters from this and other battles, and a handful of paintings from WWI by Albin Egger-Lienz.
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