Things to do in Lienz
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Sportcamp Messner
The foaming rivers, narrow gorges and pine forests of the Dolomites around Lienz are the perfect place for adrenaline-pumping sports such as white-water rafting, canyoning, rock climbing and kayaking. The following two companies, both based in the village of Ainet near Lienz, will set you up: Osttirol Adventures and Sportcamp Messner.
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Stadtpfarrkirche St Andrä
A Gothic gem just north of the Isel River, Stadtpfarrkirche St Andrä is a quiet spot for contemplation. Peer inside the rib-vaulted interior to see 14th-century frescoes and a pair of tombstones sculpted in red Salzburg marble. Its hidden gem is the solemn Kriegergedächtniskapelle (war memorial chapel) sheltering Albin Egger-Lienz’s eye-catching sculpture of Jesus in nought but a skimpy loin cloth, which scandalised the Vatican when it was unveiled to the public in 1925. To visit the chapel, pick up the key that hangs on the door at Pfarrgasse 13 (across the bridge facing the main entrance).
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Roman Archaeological Site
This Roman archaeological site, with an ultramodern museum to boot, is unique in these parts. Excavations are still under way to piece together the jigsaw puzzle of this 2000-year-old municipium, which flourished as a centre of trade and commerce under Emperor Claudius. Take a stroll outside to glimpse the Roman spa, artisan quarter and a reconstructed villa. The glass-walled museum explores Lienz’s Roman roots in greater depth, with interactive stuff for the kids (a virtual tour through Aguntum and dress-up costumes) and an exhibition featuring fun elements such as traditional Roman recipes.
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Zettersfeld
The skiing in Lienz is geared mainly towards beginners and intermediates, with just a handful of knee-trembling black runs. Its downhill offer is not huge by Austrian standards, but the views of the rugged Dolomites are awesome. Most of the action takes place around Zettersfeld, where a cable car and five lifts whizz skiers up to slopes reaching between 1660m and 2278m.
The ski lifts run from 1 December to Easter, depending on snow.Multiday passes cover all of East Tyrol's ski lifts (see www.topski.at, in German, for full ski-pass details). Several peaceful cross-country trails also crisscross the valley.
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Deep Blue
Deep Blue Stepping down to this wacky lounge bar is like plunging to the bottom of the ocean. It houses the kind of aquarium (apparently it’s Tyrol’s biggest) that even Nemo would gladly sacrifice the sea for. Dangling fish and lanterns continue the aquatic theme. The cocktail-master also knows how to shake ’em (for something with a kick, try a Moscow Mule) but beware –one too many and you’ll almost certainly see the room swim.
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Hochstein
Slightly west of Lienz, Hochstein (2057m) is also popular for its groomed pistes; a free bus runs from the train station to the cable-car valley stations in summer and winter high seasons. The ski lifts run from 1 December to Easter, depending on snow. Multiday passes cover all of East Tyrol's ski lifts (see www.topski.at, in German, for full ski-pass details). Several peaceful cross-country trails also crisscross the valley.
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Lienzer Bergbahnen
The cable cars spring back to life for the summer season (June to September). The ride up to Hochstein costs €11 return, while Zettersfeld costs €10, or €17 including the chairlift to 2214m. Family and child fares are also available. If you’re planning on making more than one trip, it makes sense to buy the Osttirol Card. Both lifts are run by Lienzer Bergbahnen.
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Osttirol Adventures
The foaming rivers, narrow gorges and pine forests of the Dolomites around Lienz are the perfect place for adrenaline-pumping sports such as white-water rafting, canyoning, rock climbing and kayaking. The following two companies, both based in the village of Ainet near Lienz, will set you up: Osttirol Adventures and Sportcamp Messner.
reviewed
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Heimatmuseum
The hilltop castle now houses the Heimatmuseum, which chronologically runs through Tyrol’s heritage in its atmospheric rooms, displaying everything from oil paintings to Cold War memorabilia. The tower rotates exhibitions of avant-garde works and is worth climbing for exhilarating views over Lienz.
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Dolomiten Lamatrekking
Dolomiten Lamatrekking is a dab hand at getting those stubborn llamas to walk his way. The llamas obligingly lug the heavy packs, leaving walkers free to enjoy the stunning Hohe Tauern scenery. Tours take place come snow or shine and stretch from two-hour taster sessions to four-day uphill hikes.
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Probike Lienz
A network of mountain-bike trails radiates from Lienz, taking in the striking landscape of the Dolomites. Ask the tourist office for the map Rad und Mountainbike Karte Osttirol, which details cycling routes. Probike Lienz is the most central place to hire your own set of wheels.
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La Taverna
A staircase twists down to this wood-panelled taverna in the bowels of Hotel Traube. Chefs whip up Italian and Tyrolean flavours in the show kitchen (try the rocket tagliatelle). The resident Bacchus gives an indication of the mind-boggling wine list – there are 800 bottles to choose from.
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Spice Tapas Bar
A slither of Seville in the Dolomites, this funky tapas bar has a menu full of the usual suspects (Serrano ham and chewy chorizo), plus a few wild cards such as kangaroo fillets and wild salmon in champagne froth. Grab a table outside to soak up the atmosphere.
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Petrocelli's
Petrocelli ’ s The bustling terrace on the square is the crowd-puller at this ice-cream parlour, which doubles as a trendy bar in the evenings. Tuned-in locals come to sip caipirnhas and indulge in people-watching.
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Adlerstüberl Restaurant
Adlerstüberl is the grandaddy of Lienz, where grizzled locals put the world to rights over beer, humungous schnitzels and plates of piping goulash. Find a cosy nook in one of the vaulted rooms and join them.
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s’Stöckl
There are no airs and graces about this spit-and-sawdust watering hole – a fine spot for Gösser brews and long chats at the bar. Cocktails are a bargain €3.50 during happy hour (8pm to 11pm).
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Pizzeria da Franco
This hole-in-the-wall pizzeria isn’t plush, but the thin, crisp pizzas baked in a brick oven do Italy proud. Top that with cheery staff and pocket-pleasing prices and you’re onto a winner.
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Hendl Ortner
The tasty rotisserie Hendl (half-chickens) sprinkled with spices make this one of the best fast-food joints in town, but you’re pretty stuffed if you don’t like chicken.
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Galitzenklamm Wasserschaupfad
Galitzenklamm Wasserschaupfad, a specially built walkway that clings to sheer cliffs above the gorge of the Drau. To get there, head for Leisach, 3km from Lienz.
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Gasthaus Marinelli
Locals rave about the home-cooked local food at this tiny restaurant in the schnapps-making village of Dölsach, just outside Lienz. It’s best to reserve in advance.
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Joy
Venture downstairs from Petrocelli’s to Joy, a party haunt where DJs spin dance music till the wee hours.
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