Other sights in Austria
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Mozarthaus Vienna
Mozarthaus Vienna, the residence where the great composer spent two and a half happy and productive years, is now the city’s premiere Mozart attraction. The museum was revamped a few years ago and is well worth a visit for an insight into the life and times of Mozart in Vienna (a total of 10 years). One floor deals with the society of the late 18th century, providing asides into prominent figures in the court and Mozart’s life, such as the Freemasons to whom he dedicated a number of pieces. Mozart’s vices – his womanising, gambling and ability to waste excessive amounts of money – lend a spicy edge (you can look through some peepholes). Another floor concentrates on Mozar…
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Otto Wagner Buildings
Something of a problem zone due to flooding, the Wien River needed regulating in the late 19th century. It would be more accurate to say that its last semblance of being a natural river was utterly and completely obliterated. At the same time, Otto Wagner had visions of turning the area between Karlsplatz and Schönbrunn into a magnificent boulevard. The vision blurred and the reality is a gushing, concrete-bottomed creek (a shocking eyesore designed by Wagner) and a couple of attractive Wagner houses on the Linke Wienzeile. Majolika-Haus at No 40 (1899) is the prettiest as it’s completely covered in glazed ceramic to create flowing floral motifs on the facade. The second…
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Swarovski Kristallwelten
Swarovski Kristallwelten tops the list of Austria’s most-visited attractions. Call them kitsch or classy, there is no doubting the popularity of these crystals, displayed in all their glory at this fantastical playground. A giant’s head spewing water into a pond greets you in the park. Inside you’ll find Alexander McQueen’s crystal tree, zebras drifting past on ruby slippers in a twinkling theatre, and the world’s biggest crystal, weighing in at 62kg. Terence Conran’s shop by the exit is where, depending on your budget, you can buy a bejewelled pen for €1.30 or splurge on a €14,800 crystal-studded iguana. Decisions, decisions…
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Pferdeschwemme
Stroll left to reach Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz and the Pferdeschwemme10, a rather elaborate drinking spot for the archbishops’ mounts. Created in 1700, this is a horse-lover’s delight, with rearing equine pin-ups surrounding Michael Bernhard Mandl’s statue of a horse tamer.
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Schwarzenbergplatz
Forming a square that crosses the Ringstrasse and spills into the Landstrasse district (see), Schwarzenbergplatz is dominated in the north by a statue of Karl von Schwarzenberg, leader of the Austrian and Bohemian troops in the Battle of Leipzig (1813). The southern stretch of the square sports the stony fountain Hochstrahlbrunnen and behind this is the Russisches Heldendenkmal (Russian Heroes’ Monument). The fountain was commissioned in 1873 to commemorate Vienna’s first water mains; a dedication in Russian on the monument reads: ‘Eternal glory to the heroes of the Red Army who fell in battle for the freedom and independence of the people of Europe against German-Fascist…
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Graben
Branching off from Stock-im-Eisen-Platz (a small square adjoining Stephansplatz), Graben literally began life as a ditch dug by the Romans to protect Vinodoba. In 1192 Leopold V filled in the ditch and built a defensive city wall that ended in Freyung, using as finance the ransom paid by arch-rival Richard the Lionheart, who at that time was being kept under lock and key in a castle near Dürnstein, on the Danube. Two fascinating landmarks on Graben are the writhing, towering Pestsäule (Plague Column), and Adolf Loos’ public toilets, which are in the Jugendstil design. The Pestsäule commemorates the end of the plague and was erected in 1692. It was designed by Johann B…
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Liechtensteinklamm
One of the deepest and longest ravines in the Alps, the Liechtensteinklamm is off the beaten track but well worth the detour. The jaw-dropping chasm was carved out during the last Ice Age and takes its name from Johann II, Prince of Liechtenstein, who poured plenty of money into making the gorge accessible in the 19th century. Following raging waters flanked by vertical 300m-high cliffs, the footpath crosses bridges and passes through tunnels gouged into slate cliffs veined with white granite. The mossy boulders and crags glisten with spray from the water, which is at its most striking in the late afternoon when the sunlight turns it opal blue. The trail culminates at a s…
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University Main Building
Founded in 1365, Vienna’s venerable university was the first in the German-speaking countries. Today it has about 85,000 students, and at some time or aother they all drop by the main university building. Grand Duke Rudolph IV (1339–65) used Paris’ Sorbonne as his inspiration. One-hour tours take you through the late-19th century neo-Renaissance and neobaroque arcades, reading room and, when possible, decorative main ceremonial chamber. They leave from the porter’s office in the entrance hall. Directly opposite the university is the Votivkirche, and also the Mölker Bastei, one of the couple of remaining sections of the old city walls.
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Kahlenberg
As any proud Pole will tell you, it wasn’t the Viennese who drove back the Turks in the second siege in September 1683, it was a force of Polish and German troops under the command of the Polish king, Jan III Sobieski. Mass was conducted on Kahlenberg before the troops rode down into Vienna’s Vorstädte. At 484m, Kahlenberg offers fantastic views across Vienna to the Lesser Carpathians hills of Slovakia. Today the St Josephs Kirche on Kahlenberg is run by Polish priests, and alongside the church is a modern hotel and restaurant complex. A pleasant alternative to taking the bus back down from here is to set off by foot through the vineyards to Nussdorf.
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Fleischmarkt
Around 1700 a gaggle of Greek merchants settled around Fleischmarkt, which gradually became known as the Griechenviertel (Greek quarter). Their favourite meeting place was the Griechenbeisl, today one of Vienna’s most popular (and touristed) Beisln. As the community became more established, a few wealthier Greeks spun off towards the Ringstrasse and built larger abodes there. One immigrant, the industrialist and politician Nikolaus von Dumba, commissioned the building of Palais Dumba in 1866. By the early 20th century, the traditional Greek quarter of Fleischmarkt was being blessed with an attractive cluster of art-nouveau buildings.
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Stift Göttweig
Founded in 1083, the abbey you see today is mostly baroque due to restoration after a devastating fire in the early 18th century. Aside from the grand view back across the Danube Valley from its garden terrace and restaurant, the abbey’s highlights include the Imperial Staircase with a heavenly ceiling fresco painted by Paul Troger in 1739, and the over-the-top baroque interior of the Stiftskirche (which has a Kremser Schmidt work in the crypt). Fully guided tours take in the abbey’s Imperial Wing, church and summer vestry; shorter tours explore either the Imperial Wing or the church and vestry.
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Justizpalast
Completed in 1881, the Justizpalast is home to the supreme court. It’s an impressive neo-Renaissance building that – as long as you’re not being dragged in wearing handcuffs – is also interesting inside. To enter, you pass through airport-type security. Inside, the 23m-high central hall is a majestic ensemble of staircase, arcades, glass roofing and an oversized statue of Justitia poised with her sword and law book. In 1945, the commander of the four occupying Allied powers had his office here. The canteen on the top floor is open to the general public and has great views across the Hofburg.
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Cathedral South Tower
When the foundation stone for the south tower (Südturm) was laid in 1359, Rudolf IV is said to have used a trowel and spade made of silver – both of which apparently survived among the cathedral treasures until the 15th century before vanishing. Two towers were originally envisaged, but the Südturm grew so high that little space remained for the second. In 1433, after 75 years of toil, the tower reached its final height of 136.7m, and today you can ascend the 343 steps to a cramped platform for one of Vienna’s most spectacular views over the rooftops of the Innere Stadt.
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Maria am Gestade
Originally a wooden church built by Danube boatsmen around 880, Maria am Gestade (Maria on the Riverbank) today is a shapely Gothic beauty of stone assembled from the 14th century. When Napoleon came to town from 1805, he used it as a store for his weapons and stall for his horses. The interior, with its high vaulted Gothic ceiling and pretty stained glass behind a winged Gothic altar, can only be viewed during services, held at 7am and 11am Monday to Saturday, and from 7am to noon Sunday. The church is on a picturesque flight of steps in a quiet corner of town.
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Loos Haus
Designed by Adolf Loos, this modernist gem put Franz Josef’s nose seriously out of joint when it was completed in 1911. Its intentionally simple facade offended the emperor so deeply that he ordered the curtains pulled on all palace windows overlooking the building. Critics described it as a ‘house without eyebrows’, referring to its lack of window detail, and work had to be stopped until Loos agreed to add 10 window boxes. Today it is widely accepted as a work of genius and houses a bank on the ground floor and temporary exhibition halls on the upper floors.
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Third Man Private Collection
The hours of this private museum may be limited, but fans of the quintessential film about Vienna from 1948 (and voted best British film of the 20th century by the British Film Institute) will enjoy perusing the posters, Third Man paraphernalia and the other 3000 or so objects on show here. Stills on the walls illustrate the craftwork of Australian-born cinematographer Robert Krasker, who received an Oscar. The museum indirectly covers aspects of Vienna before and after ‘Harry Lime Time’ as well as the film itself.
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Die Spur des Einhorns
Die Spur des Einhorns is Friesach’s main attraction, a contemporary and dreamlike art installation housed in a 15th-century bishop’s palace and loosely based on the myths and stories of the medieval age in Europe. Music, voices and light effects accompany the visitor throughout a visit, from an ‘enchanted forest’ made of mirrors to the final resting place of the mighty sword, Excalibur. It’s fascinating, beautiful and perfect for children and adults alike.
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Augarten Contemporary/Gustinus Ambrosi-Museum
Sculptures by Austrian-born Gustinus Ambrosi (1893–1975) are the highlight of the works displayed inside the Atelier section of this museum in the western corner of the Augarten. Alongside his works are sculptures by other European artists from the 20th and 21st centuries, while the Augarten Contemporary, part of the same museum, features temporary exhibits from international artists. Entry to the Atelier is included in the Schloss Belvedere ticket (adult/senior/student/child €13.50/10.50/9.50/free).
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Papyrus Museum
Part of the Nationalbibliothek museum ensemble, the Papyrus Museum displays a collection of 200 fragments of ancient writing on papyrus. Papyrus was used for writing in ancient Egypt and the museum focuses on this, and cultures that influenced ancient Egypt, as well as fragments of writing on other media such as parchment and clay. One of its highlights is a fragment of musical notation on pottery depicting the choral ode from Orestes, a tragedy written by the Greek Euripides.
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St-Georgs-Kathedrale
St-Georgs-Kathedrale has a fine late-Gothic interior. Maximilian I is buried under the altar. On the outside wall is the Wappenwand (Heraldic Wall) comprising 15th-century carvings of 107 coats of arms. This wall was all that survived the bombing during WWII (the stained glass had already been previously removed to the Altaussee salt mines in the Salzkammergut). The statue below the window is Friedrich III, whose AEIOU motto also appears on the wall.
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Montafon
Silent and unspoilt, the Montafon was apparently Hemingway’s favourite valley and is still a fine spot for a wee adventure. Running south from Bludenz, the vale is quilted green in summer, blanketed white in winter and silhouetted by the glaciated Silvretta range year-round. All that natural splendour doesn’t go to waste: freestyle skiers and families seeking uncrowded pistes and a low-key vibe flock here, as do hikers spellbound by the craggy summits.
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Roman Ruins – Michaelerplatz
Ringed by gorgeous architecture, Michaelerplatz is centred on Roman ruins that are reputed to have been a brothel for soldiers. This cobblestoned circular ‘square’ is often packed with snap-happy travellers, ticket touts and Fiaker (horse-drawn carriages), and on hot summer days the throng of people and the smell of Pferdekacke (horse crap) can be overwhelming. Notwithstanding the crowds, Michaelerplatz is one of the prettiest squares in the city.
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Ankeruhr – Hoher Markt
Vienna’s oldest square is home to the Ankeruhr (Anker Clock), an art-nouveau masterpiece created by Franz von Matsch in 1911 and named after the Anker Insurance Co, which commissioned it. Over a 12-hour period, figures slowly pass across the clock face, indicating the time against a static measure showing the minutes. People flock here at noon, when all the figures trundle past in succession and organ music from the appropriate period is piped out.
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Beethoven Pasqualatihaus
Beethoven made the 4th floor of this house his residence from 1804 to 1814 and during that time composed Symphonies 4, 5 and 7 and the opera Fidelio, among other works. His two rooms (plus another two from a neighbouring apartment) have been converted into a museum, which is lightly filled with photos, articles and a handful of his personal belongings. The house is named after its long-time owner Josef Benedikt Freiherr von Pasqualati.
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Arnold Schönberg Center
This brilliant repository of Arnold Schönberg’s archival legacy is a cultural centre and celebration of the Viennese school of the early 20th century honouring Mr Schönberg, a Viennese-born composer, painter, teacher, theoretician and innovator known for his ‘Method of composing with twelve tones which are related only with one another’. The exhibition hall regularly hosts intimate classical concerts, which people in the know flock to.
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