Beisl restaurants in Austria
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A
Figlmüller
Vienna, and the Viennese, would simply be at a loss without Figlmüller. This famous Beisl has some of the biggest – and best – schnitzels in the business. Sure, the rural decor is contrived for its inner-city location, and beer isn’t served (only wine from the owner’s own vineyard), but it’s a fun Viennese eating experience and one you won’t find anywhere else in the world.
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B
Zu den Zwei Liesln
A classic, budget Beisl of legendary status, Zu den Zwei Liesln has been serving celebrities, politicians, office workers and students for decades. Six varieties of schnitzel crowd the menu (the Haus Schnitzel, filled with Gorgonzola, ham and pepperoni, is killer bee), but there are other Viennese options, and even two vegetarian choices. The wood panelling, simple wooden chairs and chequered tablecloths create a quaint and cosy interior, complemented by a tree-shaded inner courtyard.
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C
Gasthaus Wickerl
Wickerl is a beautiful Beisl with an all-wood finish and a warm, welcoming mood. Seasonal fare, such as Kürbiscremesuppe (cream-of-pumpkin soup) and Kürbisgulasch (pumpkin goulash) in autumn, Marillenknödel in summer and Spargel (asparagus) in spring are mixed in with the usual Viennese offerings of Tafelspitz, Zwiebelrostbraten (steak with onions) and veal and pork schnitzel.
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D
Haas Beisl
This small, very traditional Margareten Beisl doesn’t have the revamped, streamlined culinary edges of a neo-Beisl, but Haas is absolutely genuine and a place where you can enjoy decent food and soak up a very local atmosphere. Classics like offal and sweetmeats are prepared the way your grandmother might have done them, but local pundits often head straight for the celery soup. Above the bar are football (soccer) trophies won by the gentlemen players at Haas who have exceeded their own football prime (but not by much, as the trophies testify). The toilets have an ‘art’ touch.
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E
Quell
Time stands still at Quell, a traditional Beisl in suburban Rudolfsheim-Fünfhaus. The panelled-wood interior looks untouched for years, the archaic wooden chandeliers and ceramic stoves wouldn’t be out of place in the Museum für Volkskunde, and some guests look as though they’ve been frequenting the place for decades. The menu is thoroughly Viennese, with Schweinskotelett (pork cutlets) and schnitzel featuring heavily, but there’s also a surprising number of fish and vegetarian options. Genial staff and quiet streetside seating add to the attractions.
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F
Zum Alten Fassl
With its private garden amid residential houses and polished wooden interior (typical of a well-kept Beisl), Zum Alten Fassl is worth the trip south of the centre just for a drink. But while here sample the Viennese favourites and regional specialities, like Eierschwammerl and Blunzengröstl. When it’s in season, Zanderfilet (fillet of zander) is the chef’s favourite. Between 1974 and 1982 the singer Falco lived upstairs in this building – a plaque marks the spot.
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G
Beim Czaak
In contrast to more-heavily touristed Beisln in the Innere Stadt, Beim Czaak has a genuine and relatively simple interior. As you would expect, meat dishes dominate the menu, with choices like Waldvierteler Schnitzel (with fried bacon, onions and mushrooms) and the Haus Schnitzel (weighted down with ham, cheese, mushrooms and onions – yum). Standard Viennese vegetarian, such as Eiernockerl (egg pasta) and Spinatknödel (spinach dumplings), are also options. In summer, take advantage of the umbrella-shaded tables on the tiny square out front.
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H
Griechenbeisl
As the oldest guesthouse in Vienna (dating from 1447), and once frequented by the likes of Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert and Johannes Brahms, Griechenbeisl quite rightly aims at the tourist trade. It is a lovely haunt, with vaulted rooms, age-old wood panelling and a figure of Augustin trapped at the bottom of a well just inside the front door. Every classic Viennese dish is on the menu, and in summer the plant-fringed front garden is pole position.
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I
Ubl
This much-loved Beisl is a favourite of the Wieden crowd. Its menu is heavily loaded with Viennese classics, such as Schinkenfleckerl, Schweinsbraten (roast pork) and four types of schnitzel, and is enhanced with seasonal cuisine throughout the year. You could do worse than finish the hefty meal off with a stomach-settling plum schnapps. The quiet, tree-shaded garden is wonderful in summer.
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Zum Weissen Rössl
This Gasthaus may look a little dusty from the outside, but it’s cosy and welcoming and serves solid Austrian food, including a choice of a small or large goulash. There’s outdoor seating on Hauptplatz.
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J
Tramina
In the family for three generations, this organic traditional restaurant has earned a Grüne Küche (Green Kitchen) award for good ecological practice. It specialises in lamb, but you’ll also find thin slices of beef served in vinegar and oil and half a dozen vegetarian dishes.
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Thomawirt
This neo-Beisl and pub in the uni quarter serves lunch from 2pm (11am on weekends) and other excellent dishes ranging from Styrian classics to steaks until 1am. Chill out with occasional music in the bar; the place is divided up into cafe, restaurant and lounge-bar areas.
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K
Der Steirer
This Styrian neo-Beisl and wine bar has a small but excellent selection of local dishes and a large choice of wines. The goulash with fried polenta is easily one of the best in the country.
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K.u.K. Hofbeisl
For quality grub at a decent price, try this simple eatery. It doubles as a lively bar come sundown.
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