Once a key staging post on the Vienna–Venice trade route, Friesach is Carinthia’s oldest town. The hills on either side of town bristle with ruined fortifications and the centre is surrounded by a moat (it’s the only town in Austria that still has one) and a set of imposing, grey-stone walls. Once a year Friesach’s gates are locked, everyone in town dresses up in medieval costumes and Friesach re-enacts its history. Picturesque Hauptplatz is a few minutes’ walk from the train station along Bahnhofstrasse. Turn left on leaving the station.