Entertainment in Austria
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Café Central
Grand Central has a rich history – Trotsky came here to play chess, and turn-of-the-century literary greats such as Karl Kraus and Hermann Bahr regularly met here for coffee. Its impressive interior of marble pillars, arched ceilings and glittering chandeliers now plays host to tourists rather than locals, but it’s worth stopping in for a look. There’s live piano music daily from 5pm to 10pm, and the plaster patron with the walrus moustache near the door is a model of the poet Peter Altenberg.
reviewed
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Flex
Flex has been attracting a more mainstream crowd than it did in its early days but it still manages to retain a semblance of its former edginess, and the title of best club in town. The sound system is without equal in Vienna (some would say Europe), entry price generally reasonable and dress code unheard of. The monthly DJ line-up features local legends and international names, and live acts are commonplace. ‘Messed Up’ on Monday (the night to catch serious techno) and ‘London Calling’ (alternative and indie) on Wednesday and Friday are among the most popular nights. In summer the picnic tables lining the canal overflow with happy partygoers.
reviewed
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Sekt Comptoir
Oooh, sparkly. Szigeti vineyard in Burgenland, which produces a leading Austrian Sekt (sparkling wine), serves its own brand only at this tiny, wood-panelled wine bar. As it’s located just a few blocks from the Naschmarkt, shoppers with bulging grocery bags often spill onto the sidewalk enjoying a tipple or four. It rarely offers much elbow room but the, er, bubbly spirit is so intoxicating that most just chuckle and squish with a wide grin. Note the early closing times – and its shop selling bottles a few doors down (at Schleifmühlgasse 23; open from 10.30am to 6pm Monday to Friday, and 10am to 5pm Saturday).
reviewed
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Demel
An elegant and regal cafe within sight of the Hofburg, Demel was once the talk of the town but now mainly caters to tourists. The quality of the cakes hasn’t dropped however, and it wins marks for the sheer creativity of its sweets – its window displays an ever-changing array of edible art pieces (ballerinas and manicured bonsai for example). Demel’s speciality is the Ana Demel Torte, a calorie-bomb of chocolate and nougat which rivals Café Sacher’s Torte.
reviewed
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Café Gloriette
Café Gloriette occupies the Gloriette, a neoclassical construction high on a hill behind Schloss Schönbrunn, built for the pleasure of Maria Theresia in 1775. With sweeping views of the Schloss, its magnificent gardens and the districts to the north, Gloriette has arguably one of the best vistas in all of Vienna. And it’s a welcome pit stop after the short but sharp climb up the hill.
reviewed
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Arena
A former slaughterhouse turned music and film venue, Arena is one of the city’s quirkier places to see live acts. Hard rock, rock, metal, reggae and soul (along with cinema) can be seen on its outdoor stage from May to September; over winter bands are presented in one of its two indoor halls. ‘Iceberg’, a particularly popular German-British 1970s new-wave bash, is held here once a month.
reviewed
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Vis-à-vis
Hidden down a narrow, atmospheric passage (and directly across from famed Beisl Figlmüller) is this wee wine bar – it may only seat close to 10 but it makes up for it with over 350 wines on offer (with a strong emphasis on Austrian faves). A perfect spot to escape after a packed day of sightseeing – tapas, antipasto and gourmet olives round out the selection.
reviewed
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Strandbar Herrmann
You’d swear you’re by the sea at this hopping canalside beach bar, with beach chairs, sand and hordes of Viennese livin’ it up on hot summer evenings. Films occasionally feature, blankets are available and if you get bored of lounging, have a go at a game of boules. Cool trivia: it’s located on Herrmannpark, named after picture postcard inventor Emanuel Herrmann (1839–1902).
reviewed
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Ebert’s Cocktail Bar
Expert bartenders shake it up: all the mixologists here double as instructors at the bartending academy next door. The cocktail list is novel-esque, the vibe stylish, modern minimalism, the tunes jazzy to electronic, and on weekends you’ll barely squeeze in. Bring your English Cinema Haydn ticket in anytime and receive a cocktail for €5.50.
reviewed
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U4
U4 was the birthplace of techno clubbing in Vienna way back when, and its longevity is a testament to its ability to roll with the times. A fairly young, studenty crowd are its current regulars, and while the music isn’t as cutting edge as it used to be, it still manages to please the masses.
reviewed
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Kleines Café
Designed by architect Hermann Czech in the 1970s, Kleines Café exudes a bohemian atmosphere reminiscent of Vienna’s heady Jugendstil days. It’s tiny inside, but the wonderful summer outdoor seating on Franziskanerplatz is arguably the best in the Innere Stadt.
reviewed
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Café Florianihof
This child-friendly cafe in Josefstadt serves food heavily laden with organic produce and a remarkable array of fruit juices. Paintings by local artists add a splash of colour to the clean white walls, and in summer the streetside seating fills quickly.
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360°
Clean lines, cream leather and lounge music create a relaxed mood in this sphere-shaped bar beside Lichtblick. Grab a cushion and drink in 360-degree views of the city and Alps from the balcony skirting the bar.
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Artis International
Artis has six small cinemas in the heart of the Innere Stadt. It only shows English- language films, of the Hollywood, blockbuster variety.
reviewed
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Palais Palffy
This 550-sq-metre club occupies two floors of an illustrious old building used for live-music performances. The 1st-floor lounge bar – set with thousands of miniature glittering gemstones below a 12m chandelier with 80,000 Swarovski crystals – stocks more than 700 spirits. Less glittery is the luxurious upstairs dance floor. Thursday is mixed electronic and pop, Friday features house, and the Jetlag Club (oldies, current dance) comes to town on Saturday.
reviewed
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Staatsoper
The Staatsoper is the premiere opera and classical-music venue in Vienna. Built between 1861 and 1869 by August Siccardsburg and Eduard van der Nüll, it initially revolted the Viennese public and Habsburg royalty and quickly earned the nickname ‘stone turtle’. Both architects took it the worst possible way: van der Nüll hanged himself and Siccardsburg died of a heart attack two months later. Neither saw the Staatsoper’s first staged production. This shocked Franz Josef to such an extent that he kept his official comments from then on to: ‘It was very nice. I enjoyed it very much.’
Despite the frosty reception, its opening concert was Mozart’s Don Giovanni and…
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Burgtheater
The Burgtheater (National Theatre) is one of the prime theatre venues in the German-speaking world. Built in Renaissance style to designs by Gottfried Semper and Karl von Hasenauer, it had to be rebuilt after sustaining severe damage in WWII. The grand interior has stairway frescos painted by the Klimt brothers, Gustav and Ernst. Tours of the theatre are conducted daily at 3pm (September to June; English tours run Friday to Sunday only). The Burgtheater also runs the small theatre Kasino am Schwarzenbergplatz theatre and the 500-seater Akademietheater, which was built between 1911 and 1913.
Tickets at the Burgtheater and Akademietheater sell for 50% of their face-value an…
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Café Hawelka
At first glance it’s hard to see what all the fuss is about: dirty pictures, ripped posters, brown-stained walls, smoky air and cramped tables don’t look too appealing. But a second glance explains it: the convivial vibe between friends and complete strangers. A traditional haunt for artists and writers, it attracts the gamut of Viennese society. You’ll be constantly shunted up to accommodate new arrivals at the table. Be warned: the organising elderly Frau seizes any momentarily vacant chair (curtail your toilet visits!) to reassign elsewhere.
reviewed
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Wein & Wasser
The best place in Vienna to sample Austrian wine outside a Heuriger. Its name means ‘Wine & Water’ and the philosophy is to teach customers what it knows about wine. The staff warmly guide you through the lengthy list and more than 20 Austrian wines are served by the glass. If you prefer to stick to what you know, check out the ‘The Foreigners’ section for the usual suspects. Kick it all back in the subterranean space, with arched bricks flanked by lights oozing pale yellow and flickering candles. Nibbles and tapas round out the menu.
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Wiener Residenzorchester
The philosophy and mission of the Vienna Residence Orchestra – currently led by the esteemed pianist and conductor Paul Moser – is to present Viennese classics in their full glory and purest form. And its speciality? Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Johann Strauss, of course. Concerts are held at the opulent Auersperg palace, where between 15 and 30 musicians showcase their talents while dressed head to toe in rococo and Biedermeier costumes. The orchestra also occasionally plays at other venues in town, including the Börse Palais.
reviewed
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Theatre Performances
Italianate arcades run around a central courtyard used for summer theatre performances. Highlights are its 3-D projections, and one not to be missed has been developed in cooperation with the Hohe Tauern National Park: you sit at a joystick and navigate a virtual flight through the park, doing hair-raising climbs and dives between altitudes of 100m and 10,000m while changing the angle of flight. Another 3-D cinema projection takes you on a journey through Carinthia. The museum has a small brochure with information in English.
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Diglas
Diglas comes straight from the classic coffee house mould, with swanky red-velvet booths, sharp-tongued waiters, an extensive (and good) coffee range, and old dames dressed to the nines. The reputation of Diglas’ cakes precedes; some argue they’re the best in town and the Apfelstrudel is unrivalled. Meals are delicate and more like snacks, but they extend beyond the normal Viennese specialities to include a variety of Hungarian dishes. Live piano music fills Diglas from 7pm to 10pm Monday through Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.
reviewed
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Joanelli
Vienna’s oldest Eissalon (ice-cream shop; the ancient sign still hangs above the entrance) has morphed into an arty hang-out, with relaxed tunes playing, and colourful lighting (sometimes pink, sometimes yellow) casting shadows on the plain white Formica tables and empty walls. The drinks list contains more than 20 quality wines by the glass (most of them Austrian) – staff expertly guide you between the Blauburgunders and the Veltiners. A full cocktail and beer menu, plus nibbles, is on offer too.
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Halbestadt Bar
It starts when you can’t open the glass door. The host swings it forth, escorts you in, takes your coat and offers to advise you on what to order – impeccable hospitality, with no trace of snobbery. More than 500 bottles grace the walls of the tiny space under the Boden and mixologists hold court creating tongue-enticing works of art, shaken and poured into exquisite receptacles. South Pacific–inspired drinks arrive in a ceramic, Polynesian goblet, and Sekt comes in a shallow, retro champagne glass.
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WUK
WUK (Werkstätten und Kulturhaus; Workshop and Culture House) is many things to many people. Basically a space for art (government subsidised but free to pursue an independent course), it hosts a huge array of events in its concert hall. International and local rock acts vie with clubbing nights, classical concerts, film evenings, theatre and even children’s shows. Women’s groups, temporary exhibitions and practical skills workshops are also on site, along with a smoky cafe with a fabulous cobbled courtyard.
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