Richmond & the Coal River Valley

With more than 50 19th-century buildings and just 27km from Hobart, Richmond is arguably Tasmania's premier historic town. Straddling the Coal River and on the old route between Hobart and Port Arthur, Richmond was once a strategic military post and convict station. The town is surrounded by Tasmania's fastest-growing wine region - known as the Coal River Valley - and there are wineries in all directions.

With the completion of the Sorell Causeway in 1872, traffic travelling to the Tasman Peninsula and the east coast bypassed Richmond. The town remained the focus of a farming community but ceased to grow - in fact, for more than a century it changed very little. It has since transformed into a tourist destination and is a delightful spot for a day trip. It's also quite close to the airport, so it's a good overnight option if you have an early flight to meet.

Richmond Bridge (Wellington St) still funnels traffic across the Coal River. You can walk under and around it, and there are good views on both sides. Built by convicts in 1823, and hence the oldest road bridge in Australia, it formed a vital link for the young colony and encouraged construction of the many old buildings seen today.

The northern wing of the remarkably well- preserved Richmond Gaol was built in 1825, five years before the penitentiary at Port Arthur. Its locks and cells for punishment and solitary confinement have not been modified. The various displays describe the old penal system.

Of historical interest are the 1836 St John's Church (off Wellington St), the first Catholic church in Australia; the 1834 St Luke's Church of England (Edwards St); the 1825 courthouse (Forth St); the old post office (Bridge St), built in 1826; and the 1888 Richmond Arms Hotel (Bridge St).

There's also an interesting model village (off Bridge St) of Hobart Town in the 1820s, recreated from the city's original plans. The detail of the 60-plus miniature buildings and Hobart's shrunken population is excellent.

Herd the kids into the wooden-walled Richmond Maze (13 Bridge St). They'll be safe, as the resident Minotaur has taken long-service leave. There are also very good tea rooms here, serving breakfast, light lunches and the obligatory Devonshire tea. There's more family fun at the wildlife parks found outside Richmond.

Oak Lodge, opposite the maze, is worth a look. It's one of Richmond's oldest homes (c.1831), now owned by the National Trust and operated by the Coal River Historic Society. It contains a museum and gallery and sells collectables.

Tours of Richmond offers a good-value, 90min daytime walking tour of the town or a ghost tour after dark. Tours leave from the courtyard of the bakery (off Edward St); bookings for the ghost tour are essential.

The vineyards of the Coal River Valley vary between sophisticated affairs open daily with attached restaurants to small vineyards quietly going about the business of fine-winemaking with cellar doors open by appointment only for tastings and sales.

The road heading west out of Richmond then south to Cambridge offers some great stop-offs. First is Palmara Vineyard, one of Tasmania's smallest vineyards, offering free tastings of their boutique wines. In contrast to this small operator is the well-known Meadowbank Estate, 9km (6mi) from Richmond and a lovely setting for an acclaimed restaurant, art gallery, children's play area, and a large area for tastings and sales. The estate often plays host to cultural events and musical performances.

Opposite Meadowbank is Craigow Vineyard, offering tastings in a colonial cottage, and not too far south is Coal Valley Vineyard, also home to an excellent restaurant in a lovely setting.